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By RJ Hamner
Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage.
I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator.
Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables.
Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one.
It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits.
I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail
Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point
Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered.
It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago...
With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end...
I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off.
There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750...
Thoughts and experience?
My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.
I tested the clutch switch. good
Replaced the key switch.
Seat switch is bypassed.
I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before.
Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work.
I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch.
After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition.
Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition.
Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition.
Very grateful for any help.
New to WH world and this forum. Got a 1980-83? C105 with K241AS 10 hp with intermittent ignition failure. Sometimes the key simply won't get anything. No click or burp. This happens with no consistency. Hot, cold, warm... Usually, I jiggle key or wires and it's enough to get it going but I am concerned it will just get worse.
Thoughts or or suggestions welcome!!!