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I'm having some trouble with my 418-A. I think it is ignition related, but I'm not completely sure. It starts and runs perfectly fine, but when I go to turn it off, it doesn't work. I can just turn the key into the 'off' position and take the key out while the tractor is still running and it will continue to run as if I hadn't turned the key off.
I'm trying to keep this tractor as original as possible, so I don't really want to buy a new ignition. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Wheel Horse 418-A
Model No. M18QS
Spec. No. 24510
Serial No. 1619706606
By 953 nut
I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings.
Hope this is helpful.
Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.
Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.
Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.
By RJ Hamner
Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage.
I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator.
Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables.
Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one.
It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits.
I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail
Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point
Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered.
It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago...
With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end...
I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off.
There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750...
Thoughts and experience?
My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.
I tested the clutch switch. good
Replaced the key switch.
Seat switch is bypassed.
I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before.