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Hi, and a happy Christmas to all.
Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day.
I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:-
The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility.
When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored?
Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again.
i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine)
The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there.
What do you think?
i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it?
Got the new Chinese carb on my k341 and I'm still having issues with it. When I open the throttle all the way with it not running everything opens as should but when it's running the throttle shaft on the carb only opens half way. As in the governer isn't functioning correctly or a spring is warn. It surges terribly and almost dies when you drive it. Definitely frustrating!!! Here's a video of it running.
By John Casadonte
I have a late 90's 269H with the Kohler 17HP motor. After cutting for about 1 hour I turned it off, tried to start it about 10 minutes late and it would not crank. The dash lights turn on (oil, battery, parking brake), I can hear/feel the relay click but the starter will not turn.
All fuses checked All relays checked no broken/frayed wires
Solenoid will not engage when crossing the terminals with a screw driver and key switch in on position. Is this a defacto solenoid issue or do I need to check other things? Also, I am showing that the part number for the solenoid is: 52-435-02. i found one at http://www.milfordpower.com/R12130-Starter-Solenoid-Replaces-Kohler-52-435-02S-p/r12130.htm
Thanks in advance for any direction or advice.
So what do you guys prefer to use for precision measuring of engine specifications, bores, cranks, piston diameters, etc? Right now all I have is a cheaper (hobbyist) set of 6" digital calipers commonly found on the popular auction sites. Works good for general shop use but in my K241 work I came to find out quickly this is not adequate. I did recently order a set of the telescoping bore gauges. They were only 15 bucks so what the heck. Any & all opinions & ideas welcome.
By Mike Nelson
Hello to all. I have a 1973 Wheel Horse 12 automatic in pretty good shape. It has been in continuous summer use since the day it was new. This machine is only used for lawn cutting in Wisconsin. It spends it's winters inside of a garage that is attached to my house. It has never been left outside when not in use. It has the famous Kohler K series engine, (K301). Other than a replaced fuel pump, and standard tune up items, this tough old engine has never been worked on internally. Over the last few years, I can tell it is has lost some power. It also has begun to use oil (sae 30w) at an increasing rate, Although no signs of smoking. It is also seeping some oil out of the governor shaft bushing. Because this is such a tough old tractor, and the fact that I have a spare hydro unit, I have decided to rebuild this engine. Heck, it's already got 43 years of use from this tough engine. I am not wanting to just "THROW some rings in there" and call it a rebuild. OH NO! I will do this the right way.
I would love to just get a new Kohler short block and call it a day, but I know they are getting rare now especially trying to match up with my unique spec number. So I will have to do a complete tear down and rebuild. I will leave no stone unturned. I have no knowledge of machine shop procedures, but I should have no problem, to dissemble, clean, have machine shop work done, then reassemble. The reason I posted this, is to ask if anyone knows of a genuine small engine machine shop, without a bunch of high school kids learning how on my engine. I have tried in the past to have quality work done at machine shops, and I have discovered that with all my ignorance in this area, I was more informed than most of them. The one place I came to trust is long gone now. I always run this engine full blast when cutting the lawn (wide open throttle) that is why I would like OEM Kohler parts inside. I know getting OEM for something this old will not be easy, but I am much more concerned about finding a trusted and competent machine shop to do quality work. I can find do it yourself machine shop hacks anywhere,
MOST of the members here are well informed, caring and dedicated folks who care about preserving the classic old Wheel Horse. Can you please give me your thoughts on undertaking this rebuild?
Thanks so much