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953 wiring help

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My newly acquired 953 is in need of rewiring and the original switch is not there.  It obviously has a starter/generator on it.  I was wondering if it is possible to use a newer style switch (points switch like out of a C-120) AND if so, could someone explain to me how to hook it all up.  I'm not very familiar with the s/g and it's wiring needs.

 

Thanks in advance!

Tyson

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I usually put a solenoid in anything I get that doesn't have one, along with sliding choke/throttle controls ("C" series style). Those are much easier on my arthritis along with hydraulic lift.

 

Hook-up is not complicated, after mounting the solenoid one cable from controlled side of solenoid goes to battery cable post on starter unit, battery cable goes on side opposite with a "control" wire (#14) or such going back to 'B' (battery) terminal on switch. 'I' (ignition) terminal on switch goes to '+' post on coil. 'S' (starter)(terminal is wired to small terminal (between cable terminals) on solenoid. 'R' (rectifier) wire goes to voltage regulator terminal, you will know it by the  wire leading back to the old switch. 'A' is for lights (if there are any) and should have a fuse between 'A' and light switch, I would put in a ten amp. MAX. fifteen.

 

For me personally, it is much easier to do than explain. Get a diagram of your original wiring, and one of most of the simpler units ("C" 160 ex.) and if you have problems, there are plenty of "walking encyclopedias" just a few key-strokes away to assist.

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Here is a drawing that will get you headed in the right direction. It is not for the starter/generator, but the "R" terminal of the ignition switch would go to the Battery (center) terminal of the voltage regulator. The solenoid output that is shown going to the starter would go to the "A" post of the S/G.

59ca2a1719a99_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.8948b3f13b5ee0362dfc198b8301e8e3.jpg

This S/G wiring diagram may be of some use to you.

59ca2ce5ab4f7_Startergeneratorwiring.jpg.4afa9b10729861a9e9ace17e0f136833.jpg

Hope this is helpful. 

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9 hours ago, R. L. Addison said:

I usually put a solenoid in anything I get that doesn't have one, along with sliding choke/throttle controls ("C" series style). Those are much easier on my arthritis along with hydraulic lift.

 

                                                                                             :text-yeahthat:

Plus it is almost impossible for arthritic hands to install an ignition switch with two stiff battery cables attached.    Yep, the hydraulic lift is a must for old worn out hands.

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Those early style ignition switches should really be either changed/upgraded or use a relay to handle the amperage load to the starter . Being mounted so close to the fuel tank isn't a good idea and trying to coax those wires/switch in there is not an easy task - especially as mentioned for us older/arthritic members . The drawings above are what you need - especially the starting relay added to replace how it was wired originally . I burned a hole once in the fuel tank trying to pull apart a fuse holder to the cigarette lighter in the 1277 - I hate repairing old tanks but the repair has held now for a long time so be careful .

 

Sarge

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