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445FEBronco

New guy with a basket case 1276.

38 posts in this topic

Got this cover from a 10 HP K in the mail today, sooo where do all these bolts go? My shroud on my engine has some holes in it but the captive nuts are of course also missing.

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:scared-eek:            Get that "THING" off the kitchen counter before the wife sees it!         :ychain:

 

If the holes line up you could remove the flywheel cover and braze some 1/4-20 nuts on from inside. Nice the the top tab was included, they end up missing so many times.

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McMaster has weld nut tabs -

https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=19kvxe9

https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=19kw4w1

 

I've used these to fix a lot of the mounting points on the older machines and they are identical to what WH used at the time .

 

The cracks in the dash tower and trans tunnel are common - I've had to do weld repairs on mine twice now due to the frame flexing so much and breaking the rear frame plate . Might consider having a metal shop bend up a heavier gauge piece to replace it if they can punch the holes accurately enough to match correctly . The more you can address the frame flex the better it will last - the amount that it can twist is amazing but it's due to the rails being so close together and no real cross members - I'm considering adding two to help fix that on mine . Also , inspect the engine/trans belt guard closely - it's probably cracked at the front/rear ends and most likely has broken the center mounting tab off the frame - they all did that . A heavier gauge belt guard would be a good idea , it becomes somewhat of a frame member when you work that thing hard - if it were 1/8" sheet metal it will help stiffen the whole tractor and prevent a lot of issues .

 

Btw - for making very accurate and very round holes in sheet metal a set of Rotobroach cutters goes a long way . Blair has an excellent set and the cutters last far longer than any drill bit or even Unibit drills for thin metal work . Most sizes can bore up to 1/4" steel and they do it extremely well . Nice part is it only takes a center punch mark to put one on target and it does not wander like other drills . Based on the same milling bit technology used on Mag drills that metal fab workers use so often when accurate , smooth holes are needed . Replacement cutters aren't cheap but these things last a very long time if you use a proper lubricant like the paste that Blair sells or something like TD Foamy from Ashburn Chemical - available from Fastenal , the stuff is amazing on cutting tools and taps -

https://www.blairequipment.com/rotabroach-cutters

http://www.ashburnchemical.com/tapping-drilling-fluids.html

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0316651

 

If you read through much of my fabrication/repair threads these tools always pop up - I use them a lot around here .

 

Sarge

 

 

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I was gonna attack the dash today along with mocking up a brace for the rear. My only concern is clearance for accessories  seeing how I never mounted any up. I would imagine the axle mounted hitch for the snow blade would bust the rear mount in short order. Hoping to have the frame fixed up today, and move on the my rear truss. Gotta get some IH red to paint it all up while I got it apart. I do not have a blade hitch as it was missing when I got the tractor. I plan on integrating the hitch into my rear truss to make it bullet proof. Everything I do I want to make bolt on so as to not hack the frame. I am trying to bring it back to the stock look with some improvements that I can reverse if I decide to remove it. I hate butchered up stuff, I am kinda an OCD over builder when I do repairs.

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Got some stuff done here is the bracket I made to repair the support. I tried to make it inconspicuous. Ran out of Argon so that's it for today, my plan is to drill two holes in the support through the frame to sopport the twisting on the tower from the lift lever. I still need to remove the dash and tack the backside of everything. 

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15 hours ago, 953 nut said:

:scared-eek:            Get that "THING" off the kitchen counter before the wife sees it!         :ychain:

 

If the holes line up you could remove the flywheel cover and braze some 1/4-20 nuts on from inside. Nice the the top tab was included, they end up missing so many times.

LOL, I just opened the box. I rebuild carbson the counter all the time, after being washed first of course.

 

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Ok this is what I started with for a tensioner. I made a new link, bushing for the rod. 

also welded a new pin on the cam lever. Is this set up right? Also does the spring go to the lever on the Hydro?IMG_0031.JPG.40a3a8a835db1c528bbcae64df37018e.JPGIMG_0029.JPG.2cfbb76cdcf86d23d5c43de8c13583d6.JPGIMG_0032.JPG.f05f9c45d6e1e3528a2c870e51e3f456.JPGIMG_0032.JPG.f05f9c45d6e1e3528a2c870e51e3f456.JPG

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Replaced the idler pivot rod, original was pretty wasted, the rod was salvaged from my parts C60. The rod was a little longer and has no wear along with the C clip slot at the end.

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The 1/2" neutral cam roller pin was all chewed up from the roller seizing up. So I came up with this, once ground flush and removed the pin left a 5/16 hole. I made a new removable pin that is longer and ends up taking the same overall space to the end of the original shaft.

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Got my linkage springs NOS today, gonna order bushings tomorrow then I can start putting it together. Gonna do some sheetmetal now that I got Argon.

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