New guy with a basket case 1276.

[445FEBronco 13]

New around these parts, got a old 1966 Wheel Horse 1276 I am tying to put back together. From the manual it apears that my tractor came with a dash with two pull cables for the throttle and choke? I have been scrounging EBay for the missing parts and found most of what's missing. I had a parts tractor that had some very good steering parts so I scored on that. What I do not have is the dash panel, I used the dash with the levers for now but need the generator light and dash. What models would share the same parts to help me in my search? 

[953 nut 51,464]

       I think I have one, I will check and let you know Monday.  

 

[445FEBronco 13]

That would be great! We use three mowers that are wide frames but this thing is totally different. Even totally different from my brothers manual 1960s 8 horse Kohler K. Mine is an automatic with a Sundstrand hydro.

[AMC RULES 36,940]

                                   

[KC9KAS 4,741]

@445FEBronco  to 

[SylvanLakeWH 24,078]

[445FEBronco 13]

Thanks for the welcome, I actually have had the tractor for about 12 years. It came with a rebuilt K 12 so I figured I couldn't go wrong, it was definetly used hard though.. I started to work on the sheet metal this week and got it running, now I need to repair the frame mounts also. The PO obviously like to cut and weld stuff so I got my work cut out for me. Frame is not that bad now that am underway, he sure like drilling holes too LOL.

[Sarge 3,462]

Make sure if you're checking the frame to look closely at the rear plate that holds the transmission to the frame - they are known to shatter with heavy abuse . The '66-'67 hood is unique , should have a 7 slot grill and no headlight hole . Also , check for wear on your tension arm for the transmission drive belt - it's slot can become very worn and cause problems . Same with the hydro lever for forward/reverse - where it passes through the sheet metal it can wear out the holes - I had to fix mine and used bronze flange bearings instead of the original nylon bushings to prevent wear in the future . Restored , those are quite elegant with that long narrow hood - very unique look to them . I've had two 1277's , just one year newer and down to one now . Sold off the second one as I never used it and didn't have time to finish painting it but it was a strong runner -

 

 

My old , very tired , but faithful first tractor - need to repair it's frame plate and rebuild the engine as it's just plain tired . I've had this one nearly 20yrs , my first and most loved Horse -

 

 

 

That dash was shared by a few other models , all in the '66-'67 range . Most of the '68 models had an added headlight switch and other changes so they have a rectangular hole that yours doesn't use .

 

Sarge

 

 

 

 

[Retired Wrencher 4,871]

445FEBronco   I have many Starter/Gen`s what I did as not to rebuild them. To take the cheap way out is using a quick connect charger on them plug it in when done charge up over night ready for days work. I find them at Walmart for about $20.00.  If you are using old cables this works well to lube the cable. also you use 1/4" heat shrink tubing to cover the out side so you can lube them. Enjoy the project.

[AMC RULES 36,940]

Also have a 1277 here...has an ARK FEL mounted up to it. 

Tired too, but agree...these things are beastly  machines.  

 

 

 

[953 nut 51,464]

19 hours ago, 445FEBronco said:

need the generator light and dash.

         The dash I have is is from a 1267, has a few more holes than the one you need.

[445FEBronco 13]

Yup frame hydro mount is totaled, I got a spare frame for parts so I'll have to swap it out. Took all the hitches and such along with the axle and pins. Hood holes were of course wallowed out on the hinge so I am redoing that. I haven't decided where to cut the mount bracket yet but maybe I'll get that one done by a pro. My welding holds but doesn't look to pretty. Was thinking of plug welding a 1/8 reinforcement to the back of the plate where the trans mounts. Yes sir she was beat hard, the whole tractor is gonna need a go through, Hydro sounds ok thankfully. I'll have to get some pics of the carnage.

[ericj 1,576]

don't mount  the plate on the trans side of the frame it lengthens the drive belt, have to put it on the engine side of the frame. do some research on here that will tell you

 

 

 

 

eric j 

2 hours ago, 445FEBronco said:

Yup frame hydro mount is totaled, I got a spare frame for parts so I'll have to swap it out. Took all the hitches and such along with the axle and pins. Hood holes were of course wallowed out on the hinge so I am redoing that. I haven't decided where to cut the mount bracket yet but maybe I'll get that one done by a pro. My welding holds but doesn't look to pretty. Was thinking of plug welding a 1/8 reinforcement to the back of the plate where the trans mounts. Yes sir she was beat hard, the whole tractor is gonna need a go through, Hydro sounds ok thankfully. I'll have to get some pics of the carnage.

 

[445FEBronco 13]

Just pulled the dash and hydro OH BOY I gotta mess on my hands, gonna need a rear mount transplant for sure. Good thing I have a healthy doner for the operation.

4 minutes ago, ericj said:

don't mount  the plate on the trans side of the frame it lengthens the drive belt, have to put it on the engine side of the frame. do some research on here that will tell you

 

 

 

 

eric j 

hmmmmm I was looking at that, I figured an 1/8 inch would not lengthen the belt much? I soppose some machine washers would do it on the front side, it will never be used hard like that again. Not exactly sure of how I am going to graft it on and not butcher it? Seaming it I am thinking might make it brittle with welding.

 

4 minutes ago, ericj said:

 

 

[445FEBronco 13]

18 hours ago, 953 nut said:

         The dash I have is is from a 1267, has a few more holes than the one you need.

I think I have one without the square hole around in my parts trailer, I got a 53 foot trailer full of Power king, JD, Ford and Wheel Horse stuff. Some further scrounging will be required now that I know what I am looking for. The one I had looked like it had extra holes in it, so I did not pay a lot of attention to it thinking I could get an unmolested part. I am so close to getting all the parts, this and the gen you light are the last few parts needed to finish the job.

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,255]

 I also have a 1277, almost identical tractor to yours, just one year newer. In my opinion these were some of the best looking tractors Wheel Horse ever built. Like Sarge, my 1277 was my first Horse, and will always have a special place in my heart and in my stable. She was my dedicated worker up until her engine blew last summer. Now she sets in the back corner of the shed waiting patiently on a heart transplant

[445FEBronco 13]

Looks like you all have nice examples to work with, wish mine was more complete but getting there one part at a time. I have a decent blade and mower to work with. Everything is as stated unique to itself and styling is a head scratcher being half old and half new series. Should be a unique tractor when i get it going. Thanks for the pics and info it certainly helps.

[Sarge 3,462]

Most long frames up to '73 are the same as your 1277 , provided they are a hydro equipped unit . For the rear plate - I'm cutting mine completely off and making a new one out of 3/8"-1/2" thick plate and may add another pair of bolt holes but plan to stud the trans side . The way they designed these , the tractor can put a lot of stress on that mounting point - I had added angled braces years ago but the plate had already cracked once - this time it's shattered completely - won't even back up now . I'd like to reinforce the trans itself from underneath , need to see if I can do that as it would help spread the load . With the front/rear/center blades and the amount of wheel weight I run it will almost push more than the heavier D-180 , which I don't trust due to their pump coupling setup and a rear axle that is too light .

 

You could cut the welds on your rear plate and have a new one made - let a welding shop do that and build a heavier plate , then install it on the frame so the belt drive works correctly - just make sure they understand not to alter the mounting length to the engine . Also , watch the area around the foot rest rod that goes through the frame - they can become weak in that area and crack as well - one side of mine had done that already but I've repaired and reinforced it . I love the 1277 and it's basic simplicity - tough as nails and probably the easiest one to swap implements on/off - there is nothing that takes more than a few minutes to hook up on that tractor . Compared to later models with foot boards and such , as well as the odd lift sectors/chains/ect this one is the easiest by far . With a new rear lift cable from Lowell and few other things such as upgrading to the later style tach-a-matic setup - it's a tough model to beat and they just knocked it out of the park with it's design and looks . The 2-pinion automotive rear end is tough as they get - I have yet to get any real slop in it plus with the tire weight it never spins - just breaks it's spine is all...lol . I have a spare K341 - tempted to install that instead of the 301 engine and make a torque monster with it , torn between that and using that engine in the C-160 I have with a bad rod and cracked block since I can't really fix that one anyway . Not sure yet , but right now all I have is one operational Horse and that isn't enough....can't have just one , you know .

 

Sarge

[445FEBronco 13]

I have redone a boatload of power king tractors that suffer the same wear over the years. This is my first WH rebuild so I am learning as I go. My plan for the plate is use an original one and weld a plate to the backside to not be obvious from the outside. I will have to move it in a little to compensate. Underneath I want to hide my work so it appears stock but adds strength. I'll end up bushing all my pivots while I got it apart.

[Sarge 3,462]

The problem with that plate is it's stamped and has raised lines to reinforce it's shape . Doesn't lend itself well to adding more plate inside . Some use angle iron bracing that works well also - search for some info from @daveoman1966 on his way of fixing them - seems to hold up . Not many old Power King tractors around here but I know of one locally that a guy still uses , leaves it sitting outside to boot , sad to see . Bushings are always a good idea , lot of stuff should have had them to start with - amazing though how well they've lasted .

 

Sarge

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

Might as well throw a pic up on my 1277 with FEL. It was my first WH and I didn't even know what I had till I showed up here. Lots of fart smeller's around here to help out!!

 

 

 

[445FEBronco 13]

Yeah the raise bead roll I want to keep for the original appearance. My plan is a bolt on truss that attaches to the four 1/4" bolt holes on the dash tower and the four 3/8 hydro holes. Currently it looks totally stock with the way I grafted it on. I Mig welded it in place with Argon and .030 wire rather than stick it to keep from tempering or warping the bracket. I certainly attached it better than the original tack welds on top and the backside. Next is to fabricate my truss so it clears all the hitch and lift mechanisms under there. I see how having a plow blade bracket or plow mounted on the rear might cause separation at the rear mount from a not so thought out engineering issue. I am thinking of intergrating the hitch with my truss for the blade also for strength, rather than placing all that stress on my frame bracket. I'll top it off with some ARP studs and bolts so nothing snaps off. My plan I have used before in the fabrication and installation of engine head stud and main cap supports.  I just so happen to have a Ford 9" stud kit laying around and some 1/4" ARP driveshaft cap bolts to do the Job. I think the belt will snap before the frame does. I am only using it for a mower and maybe to clean sidewalks off of snow. I see a dash popped up on Fleabay so when I get paid I'll throw a bid out there and see what happens. I need to get the gen you light, cables and switch and I'll be good to go there. The dash tower has a crack just below the lift arm I need to address next. I had the option of picking up a loader for my PK but with 3/4 spindles and no power steering I did not see much utility in it. I have a crapload of cat 1 implements and front mount stuff for my PKs anyhow, v blade, disk, cultivator sickle bar, three plows, flat blade and bee bled along with a dump rake and four assorted mower decks ranging from 36 to 60 inch. 

[Sarge 3,462]

Sounds like a good plan - post up some pics for others in the future as this is a common issue and it seems like lately a lot of these are coming out of the woodwork , so to speak . I've considered upgrading the 1277 to 1" spindles and trailer hubs/bearings to stop the wear issues up front - need to get some better idea of what late model axles might work as they are much thicker than the early style axle although width might become a problem but offset rims can fix that to an extent . I have installed bronze sleeves in mine and that really helps a lot to prevent the spindles from being worn out easily with nose weight like a blower or loader . Same deal with the bottom of the steering shaft in the fan gear assembly - most are egg shaped from wear so I bore them out and install a bronze flange bearing .

 

Another thing to address is that Cole-Hersee ignition switch . It's designed to carry the entire amps load to the starter and dangerously close to the fuel tank with live battery feeds . You can hide a relay up under the fuel tank mounting plate and use that to take those heavy wires out of that cramped area - would be a lot safer in the long run not to mention finding a new exact replacement switch is almost impossible . I have a few new old stock spares here - that was a lucky find and I keep them around so I have the correct switches for the older mid-60's models with the L-shaped key . I think Lowell has the choke/throttle cables or one of the vendors here and they are good quality . Terry Dennis has a very nice vinyl decal to do the dash plates on these older ones - they look amazing and probably better than the silk screened ink dash when they were new back in the day . If you can't find the right dash plate - this is an option since you could plug any unnecessary holes and get the surface smooth to accept the new vinyl - it will look correct and be like new again .

 

Sarge

[445FEBronco 13]

Here is the old rigged bracket:

Replacement grafted in:

[445FEBronco 13]

You can see the crack in the dash by the lift arm, it's kinda stretched so I'll have to bolt it up before I tack it back up. Other thought was cut a new section out of my parts tractor to move the crack from the stress area, then I can back it up with some 10 gauge to reinforce the seam. The frame rail is just below the crack so it will be a bad area to have a bead running through, no room for reinforcement and still sit properly on the rail.