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    • By Sarge
      Since I've finally got some time with this D and not puking oil all over itself it's time to address a few small issues . Biggest one right now is how that blade engages the ground - it always wants to sit a few inches lower on the right side and always puts more force on that side as well . When I rebuilt the frame I made certain it was squared and flat to the head part and the blade - it still measures out perfectly with the rear mount and the blade's cutting edge staying on the same plane . But , trying to do light grading work and leveling material it always wants to cut more on that right side - I suspect part of this is the weight of that handle , the solid steel cross shafts and sub frame for the whole assembly . With those parts previously cut loose I was quite surprised at just how heavy that stuff was - probably close to 35lbs of steel . With that weight hanging off one side of the frame I suspect that's the root cause of the issue - anyone got an opinion on this or ran across the same issue ?
       
      I've considered either adding weight to the left side of the blade or maybe add a spring to the frame to help correct it - what have others done or am I by myself on this , lol ??
       
      Sarge
    • By Sarge
      Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter .
       
      From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ??
       
      I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...?
       
      Sarge
    • By Sarge
      What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ...
       

       

       
      Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project .
       
      The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total .
       
      The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly -
       

       
      Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint -
       

       
      Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking .
       

       
       
       
      All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together...
       

       
      After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ...
       
      Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks -
       

       

       

       
      Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief .
       
      A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud ....
       
      D180 startup.mp4
       
      If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link -
       
       
       
      I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter .
       
      Sarge
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • By DanKepple
      Text me anytime my phone doesn't ring so if i dont answer leave a message and ill get back to you. I have everything except steering wheel, front axel and wheels, seat, engine,3pt hitch and rear pto. This was a single cylinder 16hp kohler. I have the clutch assembly, hood, grill, grill housing, rear end (it leaks believe it just needs to be sealed again), gas tank ( has a slight leak very sure it can be patched),mule drive, hydrolic controls, mid lift, attach-amatics, dash board with controls and ignition, steering shaft and afew other things. Text me any time after 8 am and before 10 pm. This was a running, driving tractor a month ago rear end has been gone through was told it works rolled it around the garage it seems fine has some fluid and new filter. I would like to keep the rear wheels if possible. It has brand new tires on the back i will be swapping for different style tires when i swap them i will gladly sell the tires.  Text me for pics. 
      Still working on pricing as i just got it all apart. 
      Attach-amatics-$15 ech or $20 for both
      grill-$15
      grill housing w/ lights- $25
      hood-$20
      rear end- $100 
      steering shaft w/ whats left of linkage-$40
      mid lift- $30
      hydrolic contols- $30
      clutch assembly- $70
      gas tank-$30
      dash-$30
       
      these prices do not include shipping.
      will trade all thats left for a c160. 
      Theres a few more items not listed
       
       
       
    • By WVHillbilly520H
      While taking the family out for Mother's Day lunch I spied this  ,sitting in front of a L&G small engines shop (of course I got the you're crazy and I need help bit, because it was close to a 100 yards across the road at 35+ MPH that I spotted it amongst all the other lawn equipment) D series with an Ark 550 loader, maybe later this week after I get off work I'll go back a get a little bit more info on this WH, Jeff.




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