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Horse Play

How Did You Clean/Repaint Your Wheels?

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Horse Play

Hello all,

 

I just bought an 857 that I will be using for mowing and am wanting to do a cleaned-up, patina look for the tractor.  I've already been using wax to remove oxidation from the paint and is looking a little better.  But I am debating about how I want to go about removing rust and painting the wheels.  

 

On my last restoreI had the wheels sandblasted followed by coats of primer.  Then I had the tires mounted, but did not seat the beads.  I masked off the tires, painted the wheel faces, and then seated the beads after the paint cured.  This worked well, but was time consuming.  

 

Seeing how this is a worker and I am thinking about keeping the original tires, does anyone have any tips that could make this an easier job?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

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953 nut

:twocents-02cents:     I like to remove the tires, bead blast , prime, paint and then mount the tires so there won't be any rust at the tire beads.

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

:twocents-02cents:     I like to remove the tires, bead blast , prime, paint and then mount the tires so there won't be any rust at the tire beads.

I don't have a blaster so I use sander and wire brush. .... definitely want to keep the seats clean. 

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Horse Play

Very true about the seats, I will just take the time this winter and do what I did last time.  Might as well do new rubber too.

 

I know the rears are Carlisle Turf Savers and are still available, but is there a current version of the front sawtooth treads?

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Chris G

I don't remember the make of them. But recently purchased a set of them on ebay. They cost me just under 55 and that was with delivery.

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oliver2-44

If you don't have a blaster or want to reduce blasting time consider using an etank to remove the rust and pant.  Google etank or Electrolis tank and you will find directions. I use a 10 amp DCYC battery charger, a 55 gallon plastic barrel  and add swimming pool PH plus to the water to make it more conductive. Cook the rims for about 2 days. Then remove take a firm bristle brush and the paint is gone . Cook for another day or two and you might even get clean enough . To scrub the black residue off and paint

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ohiofarmer

I have had very good luck with the nylon wheels shown here. They last a long time and do not roughen the steel to any extent https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=nylon+abrasive+

 

 The polycarbide discs shown are great for flat areas, but if they catch on a protrusion, they will tear themselves up and throw little pieces into the air

 

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

using an etank to remove the rust and pant.

 

I've been considering one of these for a year or so...

Still trying to let the idea.... sink in...

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DennisThornton

Hard to beat electrolysis for removing rust.  Not the best for paint removal though!  If oven cleaner will remove the paint it will also actually speed up the process of removing the rust.  2 birds with one stone IF it will remove the paint. 

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ACman

I think seen where  @AMC RULES had used a needle scaler on his front rims on his 1056 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/71537-painting-wheels/?tab=comments#comment-679445 . Here's another good tip from @chris sutton http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/68387-rear-wheel-referb/?tab=comments#comment-646627 . Use a deck of cards or note cards to go between the rim and tire all the way around. Saves you from masking off the tire . Lastly if you want to save those front tires try some RuGLYDE on them . If you go the new tire route, sell those tires here in the classifieds as they look like :wh:brand. I know I need at least one . Could help you offset some of the cost of the new tires. This forum is full good ideas. All I did was use the search box , selected "this forum" and typed in cards and hit search to find these two links. Try typing in painting wheels and I bet there's a ton of threads on this subject. Hope this helps.

 

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Aldon

I had already primed and painted the inside of rims but can't seem to mount without scratching them so once I mounted I used the card trick on partially deflated mounted tires to put finish coat on the rims. So a hybrid of some of the methods above.

 

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JPWH

I use the same method Alcon does but my paint skills are not great so I use cardboard. I cut a 12" hole or 8" for fronts then split in half and slide in under rim. The whole tire is covered.

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Digger 66

Demount / sandblast worked for me .

 

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Sarge

Just a tip -

A lot of the tire shops have made or bought adapters to use the over arm mounting machines on the smaller wheels , sometimes down to a 6" rim . For a few bucks per tire , they can mount them and not scratch up the rim if you really want the bead/inside painted properly , which is a good idea .

 

Sarge

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Horse Play

Thanks for all the help - I've decided to have the wheels sandblasted, take my time priming and painting, and new Turf Savers and Sawtooths.

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953 nut

Low budget solution to tire iron scars on your rims is to save your old leather gloves and cut fingers/thumbs to slip over the tire iron while mounting.

Image result for thumbs up glove missing fingers                     :handgestures-thumbupright:

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