giantsean 59 #1 Posted September 5, 2017 Hey All, So an electric fuel pump, new lines, and new gas appears to have solved my stumbling problems, and thanks to everyone for the great advice. Job one right now is ripping up my front lawn, and the reason I bought this D w/ a tiller was to do just that. So while testing out said beast (OMG kids, stand back!) I noticed that after a while the PTO would stay spinning regardless of handle position. Now, the handle is WAY out of adjustment, and there is enough slop in the armature that the rod rides up against the exhaust manifold and will eventually engage it due to vibration... but that is not this problem. NOW when I pull it back it just keeps going, so I suspect it is stuck. I received a PTO instruction "book" (a one pager) with the tractor, but it only covers the shaft and bearings. The owner's manual mentions the clutch a bit but not to any large extent. I suspect it is stuck due to being gummed up or maybe a little rusty, but not sure how exactly to approach this (gear puller? prybar?). I don't want to start lubricating something and later it finds it's way onto the clutch surface and I end up w/ chunks on the ground or something. Right now I'm not too worried as running all the time still meets my goal of tilling, vs. the opposite of not working at all, but it's still something I would like to get right. Thanks in advance for any ideas! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488 #2 Posted September 5, 2017 This service manual may help if you don't have it. Click on the pictures below. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R. L. Addison 299 #3 Posted September 5, 2017 I bought a D200 to part out for some cash flow (not working out) and took the clutch apart and cleaned it up and it was not a bad job at all. This unit had sat for many years and I had to use a puller to get it off, but after clean-up, seemed to be good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #4 Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the service manual link... I'll check it out! What's weird (or maybe not) is that it stuck suddenly. Maybe it's due to heat buildup, who knows? Does anyone know of any potential upgrades for D-series to an electric PTO clutch? Or is that just asking for trouble? Edited September 5, 2017 by giantsean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #5 Posted September 5, 2017 Electric Clutches engage rather suddenly, no feathering them to start something like a tiller smoothly. I have to use an electric PTO on my old C-175 with a sweepster. (The engine is from a JD and doesn't have the thrust bearings you need for a manual PTO). I idle her down and cringe when I throw the switch...the engagement is harsh and hard on all the parts.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #6 Posted September 5, 2017 52 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Electric Clutches engage rather suddenly, no feathering them to start something like a tiller smoothly. I have to use an electric PTO on my old C-175 with a sweepster. (The engine is from a JD and doesn't have the thrust bearings you need for a manual PTO). I idle her down and cringe when I throw the switch...the engagement is harsh and hard on all the parts.. Understood and that makes sense. What made me cringe is they had a manual on offer on Ebay that was something like 420 bucks. Ooooofa! Hopefully I can get this one fixed up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #7 Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) I found getting the clutch off the shaft wasn't a very big deal. Finding the four spring washers needed inside, now that's a challenge! Sears sold the last four that I found. There's chance really cleaning the inside of the clutch and washers, then never seize everything inside, it'll work. (be careful to prevent never seize from getting on the clutch pads & brake shoe) The manual has a good break down and maintenance rebuild. Also, the rod adjustment sequence for PTO lever.I agree the electric clutch off a D-160 is designed to fit an Onan, not kohler. I wouldn't give up on the manual assembly if it's all there to work with. I found this older pair of manuals very helpful with respect to the PTO's. Free Tractor 1975 D-160-180-200 OM #803977.pdf Pto Rear 1973 8-3221 #A-5331.pdf Edited September 5, 2017 by Oldman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R. L. Addison 299 #8 Posted September 5, 2017 My clutch will sell for $ 125 (originally priced @ $ 175, ) if you want to replace it. I have not advertised it anywhere at this point, but had an insulting $50 offer which I flatly refused. The $175 included two new bearings, which I will keep for the $ 125. Don't know the condition of your clutch but if you just need the bellville washers, they should be available from Motion Industries or somewhere that over-hauls transmissions etc. for automated machines, as they are used in some of the transmissions, brakes etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #9 Posted September 6, 2017 Thank you guys. I will first review the manual, then determine if I need a replacement I was mucking around w/ it again today and made an interesting observation. the side opposite the stop (adjusted by the two 7/16" nuts) will spring in and out pretty well. The side with the stop however is much tighter. Maybe the spring is weak or maybe just an adjustment. I will review the manual... probably after I plant grass lol. Because I've used the tiller (not to mention the tractor) so little, it's likely that the PTO has been turning full time since I took ownership, and I just never noticed. So scratch what I said about it just happening. When the tiller is stuck in the dirt and the PTO is disengaged the assembly will just slip so I can stop it if I really want to, but of course I'm trying to avoid that if possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
