Kohler K482

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Hello,

    I hope this is the correct section for this inquiry? I rebuilt the engine and installed it as it was previous, however, the charging wires (AC) fit into the plug side by side, does it matter which one goes left or right? I mean is it true AC? I know the orange wire goes below in the single slot. I had an electrical issue and trying to trouble-shoot it.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

It does not matter which AC wire goes to which AC terminal of the regulator.

 

Garry

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

That is a huge relief, so I can rule that out. Looking strongly at the ammeter then. I never had one go bad just like that and cause a fire though.......

[Sarge 3,462]

Honestly , I hate ammeters in the dash . To make them work correctly , without using a shunt system all that charging amperage has to pass through the meter . Upon startup and at full throttle , it will be handling the full capability of the stator and magnets - if anything rots inside of it it can short out , badly . I prefer to just use a volt meter which will show if the voltage is running between 13.8-14.2v which indicates a fully charging system . This way, the charge amps can go directly to the battery where it belongs with no real risk of a fire . I'm going to delete the ammeter in my D-180 as soon as I can find a nice SW volt meter for the dash hole's 1-1/16" hole . I like the older tombstone gauge needle look on their black gauges , but unfortunately so does every hot rodder out there...lol .

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I am glad you mentioned this, I had another ammeter and I am going to redo the harness and replace the ignition too. Perhaps finding a volt meter would be the better route to take.

Thank you

[Sarge 3,462]

Volt meter is just as good , in my opinion . There are remote versions of amp meters that use a shunt which are a lot safer but result in of course more wiring . A simple volt meter just needs to read the battery voltage off the ignition switch , simple as it gets and just a solid ground on the other terminal . I generally build a heavy 12ga ground wire from the battery , down to the starter solenoid , across to the charging stator's mounting bolts and up into the dash for all the grounds to get tied together . This stops a lot of electrical gremlins from cropping up later as corrosion sets in when trying to use a common frame ground . It can also prevent corrosion in the mounting bolts - automotive applications can actually rust faster because of the frame grounds and the resistance that follows suit . I still ground the frame and starter with the heavy cables off the battery negative - that allows the large current rush to feed the starter's demands when cranking over that heavy 2 cylinder engine and the cold hydraulic pump as well . roun

 

12v systems are a pain in comparison to AC systems - the negative side on 12v DC systems carries more amperage than the positive side in many cases and can drive an electrician nuts in a hurry trying to diagnose issues .

Even a light short to ground can turn that circuit into a welder of sorts - like your ammeter fire....

I've seen those meters blown clear out of the dash on older cars and some have burnt to the ground from internal failures . Rotten way to lose a valuable classic .

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Yes, yes it is! I have been wrestling with this tractor for a few years now and it kicks and thrashes every step, but it's about 75% rebuilt and painted, so can't quit now! Perhaps I'll leave the by-pass on the ammeter until the hydro is up and working again? I have the front end still all apart in case the pump needs to be removed again.

Thank you

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

The engine installed, although I will have to separate them again to apply loctite RC-680 on the pump shaft spline & driven coupling! Good looking out Paul.......

[953 nut 51,510]

On 8/22/2017 at 9:04 AM, Sarge said:

Volt meter is just as good , in my opinion

I think a volt meter is better, An amp meter can't tell you anything about the battery condition and won't show voltage drop while cranking. I feel that the volt meter should have a line of it's own going directly to the battery side of the solenoid. Also, it should be fused to protect the wiring from an accidental short to ground.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

"I like this volt meter", it's more realistic than the Dixco. The Voltage is just above 14v half throttle and on full throttle 15-16v easy. Also, the lighted bezel lights up completely. Unlike the Dixco which had a little dim light on the bottom center, and it switched on and off by itself? Loose something or other? I will pick up the Stewart Warner the guy tested it wet the bezel,(so he says) it's 20$.

[Sarge 3,462]

That's a pretty good deal on a SW gauge - I have the same one picked out for mine soon after I finish some of these other issues .

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I like the needle. I did get it with shipping for 22.50 It's missing the bracket, but I have a few of them around.......Good choice, hopefully.