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I am attempting to convert a K321 from a Ford/Deere style throttle-governor to wheelhorse style. The hole shown is where the bolt attaches the bellcrank that the governor spring and throttle rod connect. The Hole on this block is there but was not tapped out to screw in a 1/4" bolt, also about half way in is some hard as #$$@ metal insert that has ate 4 drill bits. How do I get this tapped?
Hi, and a happy Christmas to all.
Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day.
I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:-
The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility.
When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored?
Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again.
i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine)
The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there.
What do you think?
i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it?
Hello, my new to me C-160 seems to surge a little when idling at half and full throttle. It also bogs if I go from low idle to full throttle quickly. I moved the governor back and forth with my hand then started it and right after it would go from low to high normally, then later it had trouble again. The surging also seemed to be less when I messed with the governor and the spring but doesn't go away. I plan to clean and maybe rebuild the carburetor and adjust everything. I've never done this on a tractor before. What rebuild kit do I need for the carburetor and is there anything else I should consider doing or get. I have a K series pdf manual that explains the maintenance so I'd like to go through and do everything. I just don't want to mess anything up because it seems to be in decent running condition aside from maybe cleaning up and making adjustments. I've changed the oil and transmission fluid and am moving on to the fuel system. Any help and suggestions are much appreciated.
I have a K341 that gave up a rod a while back. talk about "Big Bang Theory..." anyway, I tore it down to see how bad it got inside and to my surprise other than the rod, and the very bottom of the piston skirts the inside looks great!
the crankpin looked like it might have taken some abuse but i used a white stone (lightly) and some polishing paper and it must have been debris from the rod or piston because it came right off.
i took some measurements and it does show some wear. the crankpin measures 1.498 to 1.499 (low limit is 1.499) and out of round a full .001 (spec calls for .0005 max)
the bore measures .002 out of the wear limits and is out of round about .005. going to need a new piston anyway and i can bore it at work . no problem there.
my question is, would you re-use the crank in that condition? I can't grind a crank at work... lol
As I prepare to reinstall my carb and adjust everything, I notice that my governor is a little bit stiff, even without the spring attached.
I still have the clamp fully tightened to the shaft and I haven't take it it off to try to clean around it, so I don't know if it's just crud build up or not. I wanted to ask, how freely should that governor be able to move? the place where it connects to the carb, the main throttle thing, moves very freely, there are no springs that close it. I have ordered a new throttle cable that I assume will move freely since it has a twist lock. But, the governor doesn't move freely. Is this normal?