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R. L. Addison

Engine (vert. Shaft B & S) slow start when cold.

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Posted (edited)

Been working on a 511 with a vertical shaft B & S (89, w/ valves in block) and it has not started cold (without having been run & warmed up) without a boost to the battery. This came in blowing 25 amp fuses when the key was turned to the on position. Correct ign. switch cured that malady, so it was off to the next. New spark plug, new ignition module, new carb. needle, etc. It just grinds when cold and is reluctant to start for some reason.

Any thoughts?

 

8-14-17          Shut off fuel at tank & tried it today & started up immediately. Replaced viton needle several days earlier because the old one leaked a stream, new one slowed to a very slow  drip when I checked it the next day, had just a little moisture in carburater & none the next day. Looks like B&S one part # fits all is not such a good Idea. May have to get one of the old part # if it can be had.

Edited by R. L. Addison

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Explain boost to the battery more RL.... weak battery? Also the "just grinds" issue.

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This is mag run so the starter is not pulling all the power from ignition, and unless I grind the battery down with the starter, I don't notice a big difference. I ground on it long enough this afternoon it could & should have started two or three times,before the battery started giving up. there is no manual recoil so it has to start with the starter. It also has the "automatic" choke which I don't like but it

should start it I would think. I did notice it "kicking back" on the starter, at one point, but I don't know why that would be but I do not claim to be a B & S expert. Not particularly fond of their carburation system.

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You may have a partially sheared flywheel key. That would put it slightly out of time. The Briggs keys are aluminum to provide a weak point.

When replacing the coil, as you did, the flywheel has to be solidly on the crank and torqued down to prevent the starter from shearing the key. Just a thought.

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A good thought Ole Red, the weak point was intended for if the blade(s) hit an imovable object. Does a shot of starting fluid do anything?  Check the key first you don't want it kicking back on starting fluid. Kicking back can shear the key also.  Is there spark at the plug with the plug out? Does the motor start fine when warm?

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I think I replaced the flywheel key when the flywheel was off. I saw no indication of any mark, but think I replaced it as I know this is a safety point  and I have seen it several times before. Good fire when I installed the module & plug.  I dunno, I dunno. I'm still thinking.

I'm wondering if it is flooding, as it starts on idle when warm.

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Replaced needle AND SEAT w/ Stens unit, turned carburater upside down and could get no leakage on test. Reinstalled, gas poured out. Wound up replacing float & cured problem. Carter model "N" to the rescue. Could find no problem with brass float, but it will be junked!

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