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I am attempting to re-arch the seat spring. It has gotten to where when I set on it the seat rubs the fenders. By the way I am not over weight. 170# soaking wet.

I have a 250# engine block hanging on it. Didn't want to heat it as that would take the spring out of it. I measured it unloaded and loaded.  I am gong to leave it hang until tomorrow and see what happens.

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My guess is no....250# will probably not reach the yield point of the spring.

 

But, keep us informed of the test results.

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Ed,

Have any idea what it might take weight wise?

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Posted (edited)

I'd see if there is a blacksmith in town and ask if he can heat it, bend it to where you wish and then heat and quench to return its spring rate to original.

 

not sure they were tempered to begin with though:think:

Edited by Aldon

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With the exact cross sectional size and the chemical make up and tempering of the steel, Some one on here with more brain cells than me can probably make the calculation.

 

My guess would be the original spring was designed  to flex, but not yield at 300#.  With a 2X safety factor.....try 600#

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I am going to leave it hang for a couple of days. Then check my measurements. Waiting on a carb kit so I have a few days to experiment. I do have a 200# wheel weight I can hang on it.

 

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The spacer thing had crossed my mind in my sleep last nite. My go that way if this don't work. Or a new spring if I could find one.

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Posted (edited)

I fastened the spring to the drawbar of my Farmall H. With the hoist in the 1 ton position it began to lift the tractor. I stopped there as I could see something catastrophic happening. My advice is DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!

I went with spacers. 3/4" under the seat did the trick.  Thanks to all.:)

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Edited by DonNOhio
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If you don't like the spacers, my thinks might be to get something like a "D" series spring and use it as an "assist" with donut's (large heavy thick washer's) top & bottom (coiled spring) to hold it in place. Still have your spring cushion, and not have the spacer stress on any sheet metal to crack it. Would seem a more durable solution to me.

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A friend used an arbor press to re-arch some leaf springs for a budget build mud truck... Possibly some localized tonnage with close spacers backing the inside of the "C" would leave a flatter area in the center of the arch if ever needed...

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I made up and painted a solid spacer yesterday. In from the CBS paint booth and under the seat on the tractor this morning. 

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