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Oldman

Kohler K532 "Long-Block" D-180,200 Power Plant

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Hello,

      I have an opportunity to buy a running 20hp and not sure if it'll be worth it? I'd have to transfer some parts over from my K482,starter, governor and carburetor. Near 1,000.00 with freight. Isn't there a decently priced replacement engine for the D-180? Briggs Vanguard or something? I hadn't seen a re-power video or anything on this subject.......

 

 

 

Any replies greatly appreciated.

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Swapping to a modern engine is not impossible , but there is a lot of fab work involved and sometimes machining as well - which gets quite expensive in a hurry . Using almost any "modern" engine requires going 30-40% bigger in horsepower to make up for the rotational mass and torque level of the original cast iron Kohlers , whether single or twin cylinder . There is a swap documented here in the Restorations section that uses the Predator aluminum engine , believe it was a 22hp version . These swaps also change the way the tractors work , 110lb aluminum engine up front versus the nearly 200lb cast iron original - so the front end is much lighter and it will handle differently . Kohler severely underrated their engines as they used the Briggs formula for calculated hp ratings - I'm sure if you put even a fairly worn out Kohler on a small engine dyno it would test at some pretty eye opening numbers in both hp and torque . You can gain a better oiling/filter system in most cases and that's not a bad thing . Dealing with the flywheel side engine to hydraulic pump coupling on the D engines is the biggest challenge as well as keeping the layout to the pto parts on the pto side of the engine is another close second in difficulty .

 

A low hour , proven 20hp Kohler is worth a lot as repair/rebuild parts for that series engine are becoming pretty tough to find - I intend to have a talk with a local rebuilder shop that specializes in Kohler engines to see if he can overhaul my K482 now before that option becomes lost from a lack of parts . Good running 13 fin K341 16hp single cylinder versions are going up in price pretty fast as well since many end up in pulling tractors and get blown up - it's hard to beat that big single's torque curve , same as those big heavy early twins .  I've often wondered , although never researched - if a later version twin Magnum would work in a D as those were very well made and known to last a very long time with the same torque levels but were available in much higher hp ratings .....?

 

That price , with freight isn't all that bad if it's been tested , which Joe's is known for doing before they sell parts .

 

Sarge

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Many engines used with generators (direct hookup) had very short tapered crank shafts on the PTO side.  Would not be usable on a d series.

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5 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Many engines used with generators (direct hookup) had very short tapered crank shafts on the PTO side.  Would not be usable on a d series.

 

Yes, this is very true .... When I got my D-200 it was smoking REALLY bad.  The PO's grandfather had rounded up a spare engine and the kid wanted to sell it along with the tractor, for a hundred $ which certainly sounded like a pretty good deal -- but, something kept niggling at my brain about its appearance - finally dawned on me it was the "funny" looking crankshaft on the PTO side - tapered and short! I decided to go into mine first to see if I even needed to replace it, and, it turned out OK. At some point someone had did a rebuild on it taking it out to .020 in bore and had "stacked" the rings on the down side of both cylinders! New pistons/rings (rings properly aligned!) and that is one sweet running engine. Course, I think back and realize that I should have bought it anyway for all the others parts, it was complete.

 

But, yeah parts for these thing are really getting scarce. Luckily the pistons/rings from 10 & 12hp Kohlers will at least fit (thats what I used in my rebuild)

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I used a 22 hp predator twin on my d series with loader.  Engine placement with some 2x2" square tubes, couple washers and that was all it took to have the engine at the correct height to line up with the pump.  I will say, I had some help with the engine to pump connection with the machine work needed to make them all play nice with each other.  It could be done with a factory style connection, although it would be tight to get bolts into the rubber connector. I had an electric pto for engine placement but later decided since it was a loader tractor and entirely too much work to pull the loader on/off to use any other pto attachment to go with a single pulley mounted on the crankshaft.

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Posted (edited)

YA  AIN'T  WATCHIN'  YOUR R.S. CLASSIFIEDS!!!  I GOT NO SYMPHONIES FOR YOU!  SO MANY ARE OUT OF DATE!!  (sorry, personal Pet Peeve when there is no follow through &  updates,    a lot of time is lost because of this)

Edited by R. L. Addison
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Posted (edited)

I see,

     this all  is leaning me towards the purchase and a rebuild of the K482 as well. I would be investing in the 20hp for sure and the parts are interchangeable for the most part.I really don't know of another engine that is direct swap.......

 

Thanks all for the replies.Oh, and for sharing the stories on the builds, like to see that back hoe in action!

Edited by Oldman
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There are no "new" engines that will be a direct swap that didn't already come in that tractor as an option.  

 

I did what I did because I didn't have an engine to begin with.  Everything I found was needing a rebuild or was so expensive that it would have cost me more then the predator did brand new even after all the extras I stuck on mine.

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I seen another predator used in another application and the flywheel side did accommodate the coupling in that picture.I agree the pricing is outlandish on these engines and parts! Once I traded for this 18 Auto I knew that I had my hands full, that's for certain! I rebuilt most everything on this machine! It took me over two years to find all the clutch parts in good working order! So, once it starts its all balls to the walls to get it done! Ha ha ha!

39 minutes ago, 82Caddy said:

I used a 22 hp predator twin on my d series with loader.  Engine placement with some 2x2" square tubes, couple washers and that was all it took to have the engine at the correct height to line up with the pump.  I will say, I had some help with the engine to pump connection with the machine work needed to make them all play nice with each other.  It could be done with a factory style connection, although it would be tight to get bolts into the rubber connector. I had an electric pto for engine placement but later decided since it was a loader tractor and entirely too much work to pull the loader on/off to use any other pto attachment to go with a single pulley mounted on the crankshaft.

I would be interested in seeing the results of the machined coupler parts. You mentioned the height difference of 2", the D-160 used some sort of lift under the 16hp if I'm not mistaken.......Loader Tractor has its benefits for sure.......

 

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43 minutes ago, Oldman said:

this all  is leaning me towards the purchase and a rebuild of the K482

 

I just finished doing just that! My 180 had never been into and it was just beginning to puff a bit of smoke on start up and occasionally would get that "smell" of oil burning, so I figured before it got really bad (and parts maybe get more scarce) I decided to go into it and check it out. On disassembly was found to be in very good condition, so I opted to do a piston/ring replacement only. Cylinders honed out beautifully, valves were in very good condition so just done a quick seating on them and done a thorough cleaning of the inside, got 2 std piston/ring sets for a K241 off ebay (VERY inexpensive!) and put her back together. She fired right up with NO smoke and ran beautifully, ought to be ready to go til I'm long gone.

 

I did have one glitch, my muffler set-up was poor and while I had her down I wanted to get rid of the pipe manifold and make up a set of stacks. Well, this was fun - only 2 of the 4 bolts came out 'normally' one head rounded off and was a booger to get a grip on, but did unscrew, then one broke off right at the block! Luckily I have a milling machine and after it was disassembled I was able to lift the block on to the table of the mill and get the broken screw out easily. Oh, and those stacks look and sound fantastic!

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12 minutes ago, pacer said:

 

I just finished doing just that! My 180 had never been into and it was just beginning to puff a bit of smoke on start up and occasionally would get that "smell" of oil burning, so I figured before it got really bad (and parts maybe get more scarce) I decided to go into it and check it out. On disassembly was found to be in very good condition, so I opted to do a piston/ring replacement only. Cylinders honed out beautifully, valves were in very good condition so just done a quick seating on them and done a thorough cleaning of the inside, got 2 std piston/ring sets for a K241 off ebay (VERY inexpensive!) and put her back together. She fired right up with NO smoke and ran beautifully, ought to be ready to go til I'm long gone.

 

I did have one glitch, my muffler set-up was poor and while I had her down I wanted to get rid of the pipe manifold and make up a set of stacks. Well, this was fun - only 2 of the 4 bolts came out 'normally' one head rounded off and was a booger to get a grip on, but did unscrew, then one broke off right at the block! Luckily I have a milling machine and after it was disassembled I was able to lift the block on to the table of the mill and get the broken screw out easily. Oh, and those stacks look and sound fantastic!

 

 

 

I broke off a chunk of block trying to get the exhaust off.  Had to rig up a "J bolt" to help hold the exhaust on.  Knock on wood has worked OK for several yeas now. .

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Posted (edited)

I had a j-bolt on my 18hp for well over four years, just till this last rebuild.....(wished a welder could of fixed that)! Notice the exhaust port on your left.......

 

 

100_1159.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by Oldman

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I had a K532 running engine listed in classifieds with almost a complete "D" series tractor (in parts, or packages, I pictured them as, {pto, cylinders, 1" complete front axle setup, etc.} that took me about 1.5 to 2 hours to put on here, which the entire ad disappeared. I don't know that I will replace it any time soon, as someone tried to play with my mind by wanting a recording (78, 45, LP,) {Where's the humor in that?} in a preview I had put in so questions could be asked to save downtime on any needed units if anything I was going to sell  could get someones unit going. It took me about two weeks to get all torn apart. (Where did all this stuff come from)? { FWIW I got an offer I felt was an insult for the clutch} I still am working on some of it, but suddenly there are a large number of "D"'s going to the graveyard.

 

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Posted (edited)

OK, I brought the engine to a machine shop to attempt a repair on the exhaust port thread, if all goes well;), then change the gaskets re-install her!  So it all hangs in the balance, would still like another engine-regardless.Perhaps Mr Addison still has his? (of-coarse that didn't go over well with the Mrs).

 

Edited by Oldman

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Yup, still have the 532. Don't Know what shipping would be, or how to ship for that matter, would have to look into it. I think it is a good engine, don't know what oil has been run in it, but I tested it with non-detergent, as I do not like to mix oils. Charge system works, but did not hook up oil pressure gauge yet, so that is unknown. In comparison to what I have seen on ebay I think it is WELL worth 575 - 600 but I will let it go for 500 w/rectifier, plus shipping & prep. (Don't know whether it would have to be crated or on a flat) 

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Posted (edited)

Well, mean time there is always the single cylinder option with coupler from the D-160! Ha ha ha! No, I will resist that idea.

I prepped the frame before the install and in an attempt to maintain a good ground, an additional cable may be run as well.......

100_1189.JPG

Edited by Oldman

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8 hours ago, R. L. Addison said:

Yup, still have the 532. Don't Know what shipping would be, or how to ship for that matter, would have to look into it. I think it is a good engine, don't know what oil has been run in it, but I tested it with non-detergent, as I do not like to mix oils. Charge system works, but did not hook up oil pressure gauge yet, so that is unknown. In comparison to what I have seen on ebay I think it is WELL worth 575 - 600 but I will let it go for 500 w/rectifier, plus shipping & prep. (Don't know whether it would have to be crated or on a flat) 

 figuring out freight is the set back, I always have to pay for the item and then pay the freight company upon delivery but these guys have accounts and everything........

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Posted (edited)

From what I've found out so far, it will have to be crated, but will check farther tomorrow, but will still need your zip code........., actually your address. - Ron

Edited by R. L. Addison
forgot something

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Posted (edited)

Looks like the original k482 can be saved after all! Thanks to Gene at Machine Specialties of Chambersburg, PA. The carbon is burned out of the cast iron and then the weld is possible. The machining and tapping was all done on a squared platform. I believe this should suffice. Now it's another topic, gasket rebuild,finished the gaskets & paint.

I appreciate the option to buy another power plant, would have dropped right in too! However, the original has been salvaged, many thanks to R.L. for the willingness to sell and or ship another engine. (I couldn't justify buying a spare), as they say in New England, "stop talking outta the side of your neck".

 

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IMG_1951.JPG

Edited by Oldman
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I'm really happy that I stuck with the repair over the engine swap, no smoke at all and fires right up even with the original vacuum pump!

IMG_2013.JPG

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