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tallen4392

Ag tire chains

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tallen4392

Has anyone found any tire chains that work well on ag tires my buddy gave me some ag tires I will try this winter with a plow but might need some chains from all the info I have been reading 

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N3PUY

The chains fall in between the tire cleats and don't do anything.  Chains on turfs work very well on my plow C125.

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WVHillbilly520H

2 link chains with tensioners , even with turf tires if the chains are loose and you spin out or have good ground speed the chains have a tendency to "catch" the floor/running boards, happened to me numerous times till I added the rubber straps, plus wheel weights ,axle weight and/or fluild filled tires, Now this is just "my" opinion but the AGs chained and weighted has done better for me than the turfs that "filled" in like slicks with frozen snow, Jeff.

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Mal(Pa)

Turf tires with chains work well for me in this hilly area. I prefer to not put weight on axle because it puts more strain on the axle and related bearings or on some tractors only brass bushings,I don't know what the wheel horse tractors use but I wore a pair of brass bushings out on a bolens years ago.   Mal:unsure:

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pfrederi

Farmers who use Ags use either double ring chains or something like this to keep the cross links from settling in between the ribs.

  None of my full size tractors go out in the winter with out chains.  AGs do not do well if the ground is frozen hard  or icy beneath the snow and they are darn near worthless backing up (even with weights or loaded)

 

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tallen4392

So many options and different opinions on this subject  thanks for them all I just want to have this ready to push some snow and not have to be changing things around when it is freezing out would love to have it ready now thanks 

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cschannuth
2 hours ago, N3PUY said:

The chains fall in between the tire cleats and don't do anything.  Chains on turfs work very well on my plow C125.

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That's my experience as well. 

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BOB ELLISON

I have never had ags tires so l can't comment about them. But I do have turf tires on my C 160  and rv antifreeze filled tires with chain's . I have a 42" snow plow and I very rarely spin a tire.

I only use my C160 for plowing

 

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cschannuth

I used to push snow with my 520H.  It had loaded turf tires without chains.  It did a good job pushing the 48" blade.  My big butt probably helped though...

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rjg854

My Commando 8 plow tractor has loaded rear turf tires w/2 link tire chains. I use roller chains on the front wheels for steering and it's a plowing beast. I'm amazed what that little tractor can push, uphill or down, doesn't make any difference. 

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tallen4392

Thanks for all the great advice i guess  I will take the ag tires off and get some turf s with chains I am only going to use it with the 42  inch blade too bad they are brand new tires I guess I can sell them 

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WVHillbilly520H

Tirechain.com should be able to help you depending on how much $ you're willing to spend, and what type of surface you will be plowing, if you have asphalt or concrete you may not out for metal chains if you don't want scarring (but at the same time the scraping edge of the blade is metal as well as my blower skid shoes), they have rubber cross links, here's a few pic, Jeff.

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tallen4392

Thanks Jeff those look like they could work price is not to bad I saw prices a lot higher on another site the drive is asphalt  so I thought about that too the driveway getting chopped up but those are some pretty aggressive chains 

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Tankman

I like chains 'n turfs for snow "duty", wheel weights, Never a problem. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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tallen4392

Now if I decide to buy turfs do you guys run the stock size  23 x 8.50 x12, or go 9.50 or 10.50 

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Cee245

Just my 2 cents...

I have a 416h and I deflate the oem original rear tires and then put chains on and inflate. Looks and WORKS great (no damage to fenders)

 

 I then install the 55lb wheel weights. Haven't been stuck yet although been close many times. 

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tallen4392

Is that on a asphalt driveway ???

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Cee245

Mostly yea. But a lot on lawn from shed to driveway. 

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tallen4392

Does it do any damage to your driveway ??

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ericj

I run ag tires on almost all of my tractors. the only tractors that i run chains on are my blower tractors, I very rarely spin with them so I don't tare up the black top or the yard. the ag tires with out chains do very well on black top or concrete as long as you run some kind of weights. I run either 50 or 75 lb wheel weights on all of my tractors except some of my mower tractors. If you have hills then you may need to run chains anyways. Like stated above on dirt or gravel you will need chains. before you up and sell them try them, you have nothing to loose, you can always take them back off. the more level the ground the less likely you will need chains, the more hills the more likely you will need them. Your experience may vert lol good luck

 

 

 

 

 

eric j

 

 

 

   

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tallen4392

Thanks for the advice 

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Sarge

I have ran chains with ags for years - yes , it's an asphalt killer if you're running heavy or hard on the hydro or clutch , but in everything else they bite like mad . I ran them on the 16 Auto again the other day mowing , even doing it's tightest turns it does not tear up the turf . Not sure where that comes from , but I have yet to see a mark in the grass from running chains year round . There are a couple of hilly spots here and the chains are a must , if you spin turfs or ags you will tear up the ground - mine never spin running either ags or turfs with the 2-link straight chains . Even with the big D180 , no damage to the lawn . The old asphalt driveway is falling apart so it doesn't matter on that and I have left marks on the repaved streets here , but they go away on the first really hot day when the oils melt from the heat in the summer . Now , on seal coated drives , chains will tear up that coating quickly - so keep that in mind .

 

As to the chains falling into the V-pattern and not doing any good - I have yet to see that happen . Working construction I've been around a lot of equipment running chains on ag type tires and others - the chains span across the tread pattern no matter what it looks like , so to me that's an old wive's tale or whatever you want to call it . Now , a 4-link spacing chain set may fall into the tire tread easier , not sure on that one , but 2-link spacing works great although out on a paved street it can ride pretty rough .

 

The 1277 - 50lb rear weights , front wheel weights , all four tires loaded full of RV antifreeze - it doesn't spin , ever . Right now, need to fix the transmission plate - I exceeded it's strength moving 30 tons of gravel one day leveling a buddy's driveway . 2nd time that plate has broken and it's getting replaced/modified with a heavier one and better bracing .

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D180 , or as I call it - Big Ugly

 

50lb cast rear weights - the tractors natural weight is plenty - it will move whatever I ask of it so far and I have had it spin the wheels a bit in mud/dirt pushing heavy logs into a burn pile , but that really calls for bigger equipment . I use this thing a lot to pull the yard trailer around and never once has it damaged the turf .

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I say go for it if you don't have a seal coated drive - you'll love the level of traction .

 

Sarge

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tallen4392

Thanks sarge do those chains on your 1277  pretty much stay put is that a certain type of chain I would need never used them before but they look like they may work for me 

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WVHillbilly520H

I see @Sarge likes to use tensioners as well as myself,  it might not be highway speeds but they do tend to flop about even at 5mph, and catch on the running board where it meet with the fender, (one area where other brands one piece fender was a better option IMO), and the spring style tensioners probably hold up better than my rubber ones, at dad used to run chains year round on his old Cub Cadet original with the 6-12 silvertowns till I bought him a brand new set of AGs, Jeff.

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Edited by WVHillbilly520H

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Sarge

The chains on the 1277 are the HD Peerless version in 2-link spacing . In other words , ever other side chain link there is a cross chain - it's a tighter pattern and I like that they prevent the tire from slipping between the cross chains with the 4 link spacing versions , as that shock load can damage driveline parts . The tensioners I've been using are the ATV versions sold at Tractor Supply - it's just a ring with 4 heavy duty springs with hook ends and they do work quite well . Single pattern cross chains of this style will always walk around on the tread , tensioners or not but they find their way into a pattern and stay put pretty well . Never had an issue with them other than when one of the latches broke on a cheaper set and the chain wrapped itself around the axle housing - that was a mess . I'd love to try a set of the Euro pattern and bet they would ride better on pavement than the standard single pattern version but at the time they weren't available .My newest tractor is a '74 and all those older ones had better clearance to the fenders - I know some folks have used rubber spacers to gain clearance on the newer models , especially those with the fiberglass fenders .

 

I'll say this - I have yet to buy a set that fits the tires dead-on the first try . Tires vary so much in diameter vs brand vs tread style and the chain sets tend to be longer than needed . Angle grinder and cutting wheel or a bolt cutter fixes that to remove the excess length - I set mine pretty tight and sometimes have to alter where the ends land to keep the 2-link spacing consistent to the very ends of the pattern at the latch hooks . Not very hard to do as I bought one of the HD tire chain tools designed for 5/16" chains which fit the HD Peerless pretty well . I've had to modify the jaw tips slight by filing the teeth deeper to make them hook the chain links better to prevent slipping - it's a common issue shown on YouTube and elsewhere - the more professional line of tools such as the HK Porter brand are a better design but come with a much higher price tag . I spent a lot of time researching these tools and those big pro style tools are nice but won't fit onto the smaller class chains used on garden tractors , hence buying the blue Medium #7304

http://www.tirechain.com/Tire-Chains-Repair-Tools.htm

 

HK Porter HD 3/8" chain version , USA made tool - https://www.amazon.com/Porter-0390MLN-Linkmaster-Repair-Tool/dp/B001FOQH5C#nav-top

I've seen links to how folks have modified this tool to work on 1/4"-3/8" chains , just fyi .

 

Without the tensioners , they just sort of "float" on the tire - but beware as said before , they can catch on some fenders . Some folks have used the method of letting the air out of the tire to an extent , installing the chain pretty tight and airing the tire back up - this sets them really tight but over time and use the chain links will stretch out some . The set on the 1277 is almost wore out but they have been in year round use for almost 10yrs now and survived a lot of hard service . A good HD set of chains in the common length to fit a 23x8.50/10.50-12 tire is pushing a $100 bill , but well worth the traction in my opinion if you deal with hills , using a blade or blower in the winter/summer and generally just need the extra traction .

 

Hope all this helps -

 

Sarge

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