Jump to content
Chuck14025

FRICTION COLLAR ROD SEIZING

Recommended Posts

Chuck14025

Is there a way to lubricate the rod that holds the FRICITON COLLAR ASSEMBLY so the rod does not seize?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

no.  It should not need lube of any sort.  The only friction point is between the friction collar and cone....

The moving parts are the cone, spring, tube, collar, and locking nut.  The shaft DOES NOT turn at all.

Just keep the tunnel cover on to preclude dirt /oil contaminates. 

MOTION 007A.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

This may be a very dumb question but, what causes the unit to seize?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

In my world, there are no dumb questions.  Why it would seize, I have only a dumb answer.....unknown.  Maybe from just sitting for a long time.  I do know that, if it is seized REAL TIGHT, you could break the TAB weld on the left side of the hoodstand that keep the shaft from turning.  Look at this pic. 

 

16 AUTO x2).JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
BOB ELLISON

Could it be from the cam follower.  Part 5995, mine had old hard grease on it

 

$_1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

C120

 

The tab on my rod is ok. The plastic cam follower had a lot of grease on it. Once I had it cleaned up I could see that the CAM BLOCK PIN was hitting the CAM FOLLOWER ARM probably caused by damage to the vertical plate at the end of the rear of the tractor frame. Damage to the 'plate' causes the entire transmission unit to 'tilt', forcing the CAM FOLLOWER ARM forward causing the CAM BLOCK PIN to catch on it - thus, no reverse gear.

Thanks for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

you are exactly right about the cracked frame plate being the cause of the difficult motion control lever.  When that frame plate cracks, it is right at the middle strain of the tractor and causes it to flex, sometimes so much that the pin will actually come out of the nylon cam, breaking it.  Seen it a dozen times.

The repair process I've shown will way fix this....making it much more durable to your abuse...lol

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Dave, would you be interested in making the angle iron repairs for me? I'd be happy to pay for your time and material.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

If I was a younger man, with good health, I'd jump at this.  However, I have COPD which really limits my physical ability to do much labor on anything.  I may, however, be able to pre-fab the two angle irons for you from a template in my shop.  Once cut and drilled to the template, you could then bolt them to the frame plate, then drill the 3 or 4 bolt locations on each side.   

Even at that, I will be a couple hours making the angle irons... $85 will get them to you...

Dave

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

That would be great.  You've got a deal Dave.  Shall I mail a check? Would you like a phone number?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

Inasmuch as I have been stung 3 times this year on pers cks that bounce , I can no longer accept them.  However, if you spend a buck or two to buy a money order at any convenience store or USPS, that is acceptable.  Mail it to here:

DAVID A. LUZIER

16729 PRICE RD

SAEGERTOWN, PA   16433

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Your money order is going out with today's mail. The envelope is addressed and stamped and I'm on my way to the store to get the money order.

 

Do you know if 520 series have the same problem with the plate?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
BOB ELLISON

I had a 1995 520h and toro did start putting a reinforced plate there to stop them from cracking. There was also a plate that they sold as a repair kit. But there not available anymore. Someone here had a plate for sale and a diagram for making your own but there a lot of work to make plus they had to be welded on .Daveoman 1966  is one of the best mechanics here.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Your money is on the way via US Mail. It goes to Buffalo, then Rochester to the sectional center, then to Pittsburgh, then to Sagertown. You may get it Monday, it not Tuesday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

ok... I'll gas-up my sawzall and start growing some angle iron.....ready to harvest it.  

Make sure to get 4 trans bolts (3/8) that are 1/4 to 3/8 longer than the 4 you take out of the frame plate.

Not too long though....they might bottom out on the trans case....not sure. 

BTW... how long are the bolts you take out....lemme know. 

You'll also need the 6 or 8 bolts (3/8" ) with NYLOK nuts for the sides....1 1/4" otter be long enough... 1" would probably work, not sure, again.

 

 

Edited by daveoman1966

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Saturday noon.    I have to work on the tractor outside so not its a waiting game with the rain before I can take it apart. Will let you know the length of the bolts asap.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

I'm ready to send parts to you.....  soon as the m.o. arrives.

Couple pics...   I state that you'd need longer bolts...get some that are 3/8 to 1/2 inch longer.  

The washer you see are for spacers behind the angle iron....

019.JPG

008.JPG

007.JPG

027.JPG

022.JPG

017.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Dave,

Your photos are excellent. Very helpful. Very encouraging. Going to rain here today and tomorrow so I can't even get the tractor apart until Tuesday.

 

I have very little experience drilling holes in steel. I have a set of drill bits but not sure of the quality of the bits. I do have a good 1/2" drill. If I have trouble, is there a type or brand of bit you would recommend?   Chuck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

Chuck...  I got the m.order today, but you name is not EXACTLY clear to me.  I need to be certain.  So, please send an email to me...OUTSIDE of this Red Square forum.  my email address is:

daveoman@windstream.net

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966
On 7/23/2017 at 8:12 AM, Chuck14025 said:

Dave,

Your photos are excellent. Very helpful. Very encouraging. Going to rain here today and tomorrow so I can't even get the tractor apart until Tuesday.

 

I have very little experience drilling holes in steel. I have a set of drill bits but not sure of the quality of the bits. I do have a good 1/2" drill. If I have trouble, is there a type or brand of bit you would recommend?   Chuck

Did you get the reinforcement brackets installed....just wondering how it worked out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

i HAVE finally made time to install the brackets but now I can't get the friction control arm to line up with the hole in the right side of the frame. I suspect the transmission might be tilted to far toward the front of the tractor preventing the cam pin from fitting into the nylon cam. Would additional washers/spacers in the top two bolts of the vertical plate correct this problem? Also, I remember seeing photos about jacking or blocking the transmission during the install process but can't find the photos.   Chuck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

You should NOT have to add washers or such to make the parts of the shift arm line up.  I've seen this before.  When the frame plate breaks, the  whole tractor 'SAGS' right at the frame plate/trans bolt connection.  The thing to do is jack up the rear end of the tractor, then let it settle down on the FRONT EDGE of the trans case to 'pinch' the frame plate back  iton position, letting the weight of the tractor do that....as a fulcrum point.  This is real tough to explain.  Maybe this pic will help.

Once yuou have that in position, then mount the ANGLE IRON repair kit I sent you.  

FR FIX (9).jpg

Edited by daveoman1966

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Thanks Dave. I had the pin in the wrong hole on the nylon cam. Once in the right hold the pin still hits the front of the transmission. Loosening the top two bolts of the transmission allows the shift lever to work correctly but, now it seems I need to shim between the transmission and the top of the vertical plate so I can tighten the top two screws.

Chuck

Whoa. Let me try taking the shims out of the bottom. The bottom of the trans case had been welded at one point and is distorted. We'll see it removing the shims works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck14025

Dave,

I got it working by putting shims between the vertical frame member and the transmission to give clearance for the cam pin; that worked. The braces you made are unbeatable. Now I have to figure out how to adjust the friction lever.

Thanks for all your help.

Chuck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

The adjustment is on page 18 of this .pdf file.  You can alos find it on this forum in the MANUALS section.

Sunstrand Hydro (part 1).pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • JasonMc
      By JasonMc
      Hi guys, I purchased my firs WH - a 1976 C-120 Automatic. I have a steep hill on my property and before I go down the hill, I want to understand how my braking system works. I’m aware that this year/model didn’t include disc brakes, so is the breaking purely hydraulic Via transmission and controlled by the speed lever? Has anyone encountered issues with this? Is it safe to use on a steep hill? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

      Jason
    • Brian33
      By Brian33
      Hello, 
       
      I am hoping someone can help my. I recently acquired a c160 for the engine for another tractor. So I did a motor swap and wanted to see what the hydro was like. I put a plow on it C-160 (which now has a 12hp engine on it). I did a quick test run and everything was good. I drained the fluid and change the filter (Napa 1410 filter and sae 30 transmission fluid as it stated to only use this fluid on the tractor.) everything was working great after the fluid change. I plowed two driveways and the sidewalks near my house... all the sudden the tractor would not go forwards or in reverse. I tried to pick the plow up and nothing... I checked my drive belt it was turning like it should. I started to push the tractor and the rear was engaged so it would not move. Of course I was 400’ from my driveway and the plow was down which made it fun. I put the tractor in forward and started to push it and the thing took off. So I hopped on and took it to the front of the garage. I put it in revers and it cut out again so I pushed it in the garage. Today I went out to check the tow valve. I took it out and cleaned the threads up put it back in and it did not change anything. According to the dipstick I have the proper amount of fluid in it. I did have a drip that I fixed on the cylinder still nothing... does anyone out there have any tips to help me out? I’ve never had a transmission like this only manual transmissions. The model of this transmission is the sundstrand 90-1140.
      Any help would be greatly appreciated.
       
      Brian



    • MS GENERAL REPAIR
      By MS GENERAL REPAIR
      Good Morning Ladies & Gents;
      I operate a Small Engine & Power Equipment Repair Shop From my home in Bridgeport, Ct.
       
      Yesterday I started repairs on a 1984 +- Wheel Horse C-145 Automatic Lawn & Garden Tractor. 
      I decided this would be a good candidate for a repair video series on my new Youtube channel. Since the repairs on this tractor are not the usual carb cleaning & belt replacements.
       
      Someone suggested that the Wheel Horse enthusiasts on this site might find this information useful and I hope that's the case.
       
      Problems I'm aware of and being addressed include........... Motion Works Linkages, Hydraulic Implement Controls, Brakes & Parking Brake, Mower Blade Mounting, and whatever else I find as repairs progress.
      Repair Video's have been a tremendous help to me on all types of things that I don't have a service manual for, and if this helps someone then the effort will be well worth it.
      As I post this there are 4 video's in the series. More will be added in the coming days.
       
       
      If you find the video's helpful please like, comment & subscribe, so I can mold the channel into a useful resource. It takes a lot of extra time to video document repairs, so it's good to know if it's worth it.
      This Tractor belongs to a repair client and is Not For Sale 
       
      Good Luck With Your Repair Projects..........................Mike
       
    • 69-Raider-10
      By 69-Raider-10
      Just brought her home an hour ago! Ran it through the paces and everything checks out! Now shes coming in the shop to get a good tune up, the Bolens plow taken off and replaced, fluids change, some rewiring, a motor cleaning and a couple of new gaskets, and a good carb cleaning. And maybe some fuel lines. 😁 This is my first hydro so its taking some getting used too. LOVE the hydraulic lift though! Dont know how I lasted this long without one!




    • mkueb
      By mkueb
      I have an issue with my mid 1970's D160 garden tractor.   Plowing snow over the weekend it begain to make an awful grinding sound come from what appears to be behind the motor.  Once this happened,  all the hydraulic stop working and the forward reverse lever seem to be stuck in the middle position.   I shut down the tractor and was able to release the value on the pump and tow the tractor back into the garage.   When towing it back to the garage,   I noticed the rear wheel where moving ok (with the release valve open)  In the garage,  the forward / reverse lever will move back and forth.   I did attempt to restart the tractor again without any luck.  The sound seemed to be the same. 
       
      I am speculating that I have a pump issue on the hydrostatic drive.   It' not the spline coupler with I know can spin out.   I did have this happen about 10years ago and at that time,  I removed the pump and had shop replace the shaft.   This time,  the shaft is definetly spinning the pump making a sound that I can only describe as a high pitch grind combine with what sounds like gravel rolling around inside of the a barrell. 
       
      Does anybody out there have any advise?    Is there any checks that I can do to make sure it is the pump?  I friend has suggest lifting up the rear end and seeing if the wheels spin in opposite directions by hand (with our without valve closed?)   Is it possible that I may have damage something in the rear end?    I did notice after replacing the spline on the pump 10 years ago,  the tractor would still roll backwards with the value closed and the tractor not running.   I was not concerned at the time the tractor seem to move fine forward and reverse.
       
      I do use the tractor for many task.  I have the rotor tiller,  snowblower,  deck,  category 0 connection with back blade.   It's a nice little tractor and I would like to keep it running.   It has the Onan 16hp engine which I have only had to rebuild the carb back about 10years ago due to some lugging issues.   For the most part,  engine is good burns a little oil (I change it every month in the summertime), and runs best on 90 REC gas.
       
      If anybody has any recommendation for how to troubleshoot the most recent problem,  veryify it's the pump,  rule out any other possilbe rear-end damage, and possible recommend next steps,  I would be greatly appreciative.    Thanks  Marc   (FYI,  I live in Western Michigan between Grand Rapids and Kalamazoo).
×
×
  • Create New...