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tbirdsteve

520H electrical woes

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Posted (edited)

Hi All, here's hoping some of you learned folk will offer your thoughts and opinions. Bought a 93 520H that has had several neglectful owners. At various times, changes have been made to the electrical wiring. All bad as far as I can see. The original ignition switch was changed for a universal switch, so the original plug and wires were cut off and crimp terminals added. A hole was drilled in the dash and a push button starting switch added. Plus other nonsense. So, I am basically going through the loom wire by wire using the wiring diagram to tell me what's what. The white wire from the B+ terminal has almost melted. The red wire from the starter motor to the fuse box has melted the contact in the 9 pin plug and come adrift. Several safety switches were broken so I assume that's the reason for bypassing everything with the push button starter switch (quick, cheap and nasty fix). 

My questions are these:

Is it a wise move to remove the 9 pin connector completely and replace it with solid wiring? ( I have new identical 9 pin plugs sourced from ebay but don't feel obliged to use it )

Instead of sourcing power for the fuse box which is 30 inches of wiring away on the starter motor terminal, is it better to have a wire going directly to the battery which is only 6 inches from the fuse box? It doesn't seem logical to pick up battery power from the starter motor end of the cable when the battery end is only 6 inches away from the fuse box.

The gray tachometer wire has also been cut and joined into another (stator wire), can somebody reply with a pic of what the terminals should look like at the regulator?

I have included some pics of the catastrophe for everyone's amusement.

Look forward to your thoughts

Steve. 

DSCF7048.JPG

Edited by tbirdsteve
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:WRS:            I don't own the model you have so can't help with photos. I would suggest you abandon all of the present wiring and replace it all one at a time following the diagram.

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Whatever you do, use DeOxit on the new or cleaned connections then fill any spaces with dielectric grease then put your connections together. 

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As far as the 9 pin I didn't replace any on the 3 I have owned but went with "bullet" type crimp on terminals (they do make solder style too) so if you do have to pull the engine you won't be cursing yourself and as Dennis mentioned above use dielectric grease, Jeff.

IMAG2029.jpg

IMAG2134.jpg

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I"m still on the hunt for an Automotive style, waterproof 9 pin molex capable of handling the proper amps... Once I do find it I will be replacing the Bullet Style Crimped Connectors on both of my 520h and any future ones! ;)

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Put the charge wire directly to the starter solenoid battery connection through an inline fuse like the early 520's

That takes a lot of load off of the 9 pin and you now could use a connector with one less pin.

 

I have done this to all the 520's That I have that did not come this way already.

 

Wire diagram is attached.

 

Wheel horse 520H wire diagram.pdf

 

Cleat

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On 20/07/2017 at 1:26 PM, Mastiffman said:

I"m still on the hunt for an Automotive style, waterproof 9 pin molex capable of handling the proper amps... Once I do find it I will be replacing the Bullet Style Crimped Connectors on both of my 520h and any future ones! ;)

All of the 9 pin Molex and Molex-style connectors that I have been able to find are only rated 9 - 11 amps. Of course we all know the stator puts out 20 amps and so is probably the reason for the failures. 

On 20/07/2017 at 7:21 PM, cleat said:

Put the charge wire directly to the starter solenoid battery connection through an inline fuse like the early 520's

That takes a lot of load off of the 9 pin and you now could use a connector with one less pin.

 

I have done this to all the 520's That I have that did not come this way already.

 

Wire diagram is attached.

 

Wheel horse 520H wire diagram.pdf

 

Cleat

Thank you Cleat, I will certainly look into your advice. 

 

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