TDF5G 2,051 #1 Posted July 17, 2017 I thought I would share my story of the saga I've had with attempting to get my PTO and mower to work well on my 1977 B-80 that I've mowed with for 23 years now. Over the past 5-6 years I've had trouble with my mower deck bogging down in tall or thick grass, and sometimes the blades would completely stop spinning. I've done several things to try and fix this over the years. Check PTO belt tension and tighten Adjusted the clutch pressure at the trunion on the rod Swapped out clutch plate and hub from another tractor Cleaned and sanded the clutch facings of both discs and hubs Replaced the the housing rod hoop, the upper plate and lower bracket for the hoop as they were well worn (see pics) Replaced the clutch lever rod and the trunion Installed new PTO to deck drive belt last season (Wheel Horse brand belt) Each time I would make an adjustment or change a part it seemed to work great for a while. I was finally getting to where I had to mow the heavy grass twice to get it cut sometimes. (one pass with deck high and second pass with deck down in normal position) This tractor has had the clutch rod (from lever to plate on PTO) shortened by PO, it's obviously been cut and welded. I never thought anything about it until a couple of years ago when I got other tractors to compare, but this was not the problem as I put the shortened rod back on it eventually as it worked better. So, about 3 weeks ago I am mowing along and the blades stop spinning in heavy grass after it's done just fine the past few weeks. &$%^W*! I get off the tractor to check out the PTO and belt, etc., when I notice the roll pin is broken on the little red bracket that attaches to the hoop rod. I figure that must be contributing to the problem by not putting enough pressure on the clutch possibly, so I begin taking things apart and I reach down to check the belt tension and the pulley support (mule drive) was very hot. I had to put on gloves to remove it and after tearing it apart I discovered a pulley was locked up! I never had suspected a problem with those pulleys. It was the flat one that was froze up. So I grabbed a spare pulley support from the parts shelf, replaced the broken roll pin and now she cuts like a hoss! I was away on vacation a couple of weeks ago and didn't get the yard mowed for 2 weeks. It was tall and thick in many places, but she went through it like butter. It's like getting a new tractor to mow with! It's made me actually look forward to getting more seat time. I just love my . I've posted some pics of the busted roll pin and worn out hoop rod and brackets. The last pic is one of the trunion adjusted all the way up. 13 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtieguy 334 #2 Posted July 17, 2017 Hey buddy...call me if you need these parts (without egg shaped holes)...hehe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jay bee 817 #3 Posted July 17, 2017 You had a lot going on there but you got to the bottom of it!!! Don't you just love the feeling of finally solving the problem? It doesn't get any better than that. Jim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #4 Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) On 7/17/2017 at 4:29 PM, bowtieguy said: Hey buddy...call me if you need these parts (without egg shaped holes)...hehe Thanks for the offer. I've already replaced those parts. On 7/17/2017 at 5:52 PM, jay bee said: You had a lot going on there but you got to the bottom of it!!! Don't you just love the feeling of finally solving the problem? It doesn't get any better than that. Jim Yes it is. I just never would have thought about that pulley causing all this problem, but I think that's what it was. The broken roll pin may have been playing a small part also. It hadn't been broken long or I would have certainly noticed it. It probably broke from all the pressure I had put on the clutch from over adjusting it. Edited July 19, 2017 by TDF5G 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 746 #5 Posted March 27, 2018 How much gap is between the friction disk and bell housing? On mine the prior owner shortened the shaft and had the muffler in the way so new rod (used but not welded) would not move. Thus I put a 45 on the muffler to get it out of the way but even having the pto rod truninion threaded in all the way like yours I think my gap between the disk and bell housing is at least 1/2 inch, the brake lining looks fine, however I haven't removed the bell housing yet (I am in tractor mode with nothing attached to it right now). The owner's manuals have not been very helpful either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,905 #6 Posted March 27, 2018 35 minutes ago, Goldnboy said: How much gap is between the friction disk and bell housing? That gap should be like 1/16 -1/8" It only needs to stop touching the disc to stop turning. There should be a small bell housing brake pad on a little piece of steel. Your best bet is to start a new thread explaining the problem and anything you might have done to remedy the issue. Post some pictures of it too for best internet diagnosis. We'll get you fixed up. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites