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ohiofarmer

Strange ignigtion problem from previous owner

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  One of the first things i do in checking for spark is to just use a timing light to check the spark at the spark plug wire. I know that  test of grounding the plug on the block is in common use, but it does not always tell you what is going on in the engine. The reason is, that it takes a stronger spark to fire the plug threaded into the internals with pressure and gas than outside in the air. Here is what is happening

 

 The first attempt resulted in a single flash of the light, but not while cranking. When I released the starter, the light would flash. Then i took the plug out and laid it on the block. the plug sparked a few times AFTER the key was released.with the engine coasting to a stop [key on].  I then wired [temporary for testing] direct from the battery to the coil and the spark plug fired outside the engine 100% during cranking and coasting to a stop, but did not fire with the plug installed as indicated by the timing light.  There were also sparks throwing from the points and they were yellow throwing out from the points instead of blue staying right between the points

 

 I figure at the very least, the previous owner tapped the coil wire from a 12 volt source that shuts down when the engine cranks. I hope that i can trace the other stuff down with a new spark plug and trading the coil and condenser from a running Kohler to figure out the weak components  Suggestions are welcome as I can tinker some more after work.

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First thing that comes to my mind is the contacts inside the ignition switch are bad.,  Power should be at the coil in both "start" and "run". If you are losing power to the coil when the switch is turned to start, you have a bad switch.

 

A new set of points wouldn't hurt anything either.

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I just went through that very thing with a K532 and when I switched two wires on the ign. switch it started up. (Coil wire was hooked to the acc. terminal.)

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I double what @R. L. Addison said. I had the same issue on my K241s. No idea how something like that happens. Use your meter with the engine off (pull the spark plug wire) and test the back of your key switch or at your coil not the side with the condenser. Your line to the coil should have 12V when the key switch is in the run or start position.

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On 7/12/2017 at 6:08 PM, Thisguyisnew said:

Sounds like a bad condenser

 Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner.   It started and ran and the spark at the points is now blue and correct. We still need to find a suitable permanent wire to run the coil.and dial in the carb. I hope the transmission is OK I tested the key switch and i think there are two terminals that function during cranking. I have some other tractors with the same switch to test and compare functionality.

 

 I got some test clips for the multimeter so it won't require three hands to .use it. 

 

A very nice tractor with front blade and mower deck for $200 that i could not pass up

c141 005.jpg

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2 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner.   It started and ran

:woohoo:

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The jury is always out on ignition tampering and someone might just buy an ignition switch off the rack because the terminals look the same. They can make a mistake on that one 2 or 3 different ways.

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