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Tgtack

What have you done on your WH today?

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20170708_182422.jpg.dc7c123652a3e86fbbf3f414cb091f8e.jpg20170708_182422.jpg.dc7c123652a3e86fbbf3f414cb091f8e.jpgI restored my tiller today well lets put it this way I painted it today

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Posted (edited)

Kinda digging the dual rear exhaust short bed wheel horse pick up

Edited by Aldon
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1 hour ago, Aldon said:

digging the dual rear exhaust short bed wheel horse pick up

It sold within an hour, the seller did a great job with that build.

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Read the tire size and started looking online for suitable tire replacements.....the poor thing there she sits crumbled tire in the front yard couldn;'t even make it to the pole barn

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I wanted to remove the steering wheel on my GT-14 so I soaked it with Kroil and took pictures of what looked like a roll pin. When I zoomed in on the picture I didn't see one :blink:so I removed the bolt in the center of the steering wheel :banana-wrench:and the steering wheel pulled right off. :DI was reading threads on how difficult they can be and I was really surprised how easily it came off :shock::banana-dance:

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5 minutes ago, cafoose said:

removed the bolt in the center of the steering wheel :banana-wrench:and the steering wheel pulled right off.

GT-14, 953 and 1054 are "Remover Friendly Steering Wheels"!

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Paint and Hydro pump rebuild started.

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Think I will keep it like this but am going to work up something special for the 2018 BIG SHOW

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Posted (edited)

WOW... :scared-eek: that's beautiful Terry!!!

 

@Vinylguy do a retro set for the 3/4/5 series in wood grain or the black and white like mine ... PLEASE , PLEASE , PLEASE... :pray:

Edited by ACman
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14 minutes ago, Vinylguy said:

something special for the 2018 BIG SHOW

How about an "Engine Turned Aluminum" background rather than the wood-grain? Very old school hot rod look.

Image result for engine turned aluminum

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Moved some rock with the C-161 after replacing the rubber cradle mounts with solid mounts. The belt slip is now gone making a big difference. I also cut the grass while at the garage. 

 

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49 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

How about an "Engine Turned Aluminum" background rather than the wood-grain? Very old school hot rod look.

 

Engine turn vinyl is not flexible and would be a difficult install. I do have an engine turn fill that would work but does not have the same look as real engine turn chrome.

Will post an example later on

 

 

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Finally got time to work on the 417-A I got from Van last year. Plan on it being my worker. Had the usual broken metal where the fuel tank/seat support mounts. Made some plates for below it and rosette welded those in, made filler pieces on top of that and welded it all solid. Also got my relay and electric fuel pump mounted and plumbed. Thing runs like a sewing machine. Just gotta get a belt put on it and servive the engine and hydro

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Posted (edited)

 The 520H transmission belt idler pulley lost its spring and has been giving me fits with finding one of the proper tension or that lasts any time at all. In a moment of desperation, I tried a motorcycle tube for a 3.5 tire.  looped it over the rear foot rest floorboard peg and cut a slit to install it under the idler pulley bolt.  Not only does it work, but it is smoother than the OEM tension spring. It really does not take much belt tension to drive a hydro.

 

 Mowed with it and beautiful results.

 

 

 Oh, and Ritchie, i used a cut-up circular saw blade to re-inforce my 520 some time ago. It sure is some tough steel. While you have it apart, make sure to check the shaft bushing on your idler pulley swing arm on the right side of the tunnel. A weak point for sure.

Edited by ohiofarmer
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Put clutch return spring on my 1993 314-8. Greased it and gave it a quick bath.

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Posted (edited)
On 7/9/2017 at 9:16 PM, 19richie66 said:

Finally got time to work on the 417-A I got from Van last year. Plan on it being my worker. Had the usual broken metal where the fuel tank/seat support mounts. Made some plates for below it and rosette welded those in, made filler pieces on top of that and welded it all solid. Also got my relay and electric fuel pump mounted and plumbed. Thing runs like a sewing machine. Just gotta get a belt put on it and servive the engine and hydro

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Looks like a good repair. What fuel pump did you use? I need to get one for my custom.

Jay

Edited by JPWH
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Started to repair the flywheel housing sheet metal on the C-141. Evidently the shaker plate contributes to cracking. I salvaged an old MTD fender pan to find some metal already very close in shape to tack behind a half-dollar size mess of cracks as well as a straight crack across the front face.  I re-inforced the spot welds on the capture nuts for all the critical parts and i think I will pop-rivet or weld the back-up metal inside the case with JB weld as a sandwich layer.

 

 Before all that, I want to hear the Kohler run if it will. I have heat to the coil, but no spark. I think I will try to replace the spark plug and wire with known good parts, then the condenser coil and points by stages to see what happens.  [I had no voltage at the coil until I  remembered the seat switch :wacko:]

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8 hours ago, JPWH said:

Looks like a good repair. What fuel pump did you use? I nerd to get one for my custom.

Jay

Just a pulse pump I had. I think it is too much pressure so I will probably have to get a newer one for a small engine at about 2 psi. At least I know my circuits and relay setup works. I have to get a battery hold down and then move my relay under the hood and should be good to go.

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Posted (edited)

Possibly smoked the engine on my 857😣. Just finished up mowing, and went to push in on the clutch. As soon as the load came off of it, noticed a marked down shift in engine speed. Disengaged the deck and pushed throttle in slightly, and it died. It turns over, but sounds odd (compression), but will not fire. It was really hot today, and may have overheated the motor. Won't know till it cools down and see if it will restart. Hopefully something minor. Hate to have to steal the motor off my other 857, but at least I have one!

 

Luckily it appears that it only overheated and I caught it in time. Once it cooled off, it started right up. Might have been some vapor lock along with the heat. As expected, all the cooling fins were plugged up, so almost no air circulation. That coupled with low oil, a dirty air filter, and the heat index pushed it over the edge. So after 3 hours of scraping and vacuuming, I know have clean cooling fins. Will finish it up tomorrow and see how it runs under load.

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Edited by Tgtack
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Most likely just smoked the rings out of it , many times a simple hone and new rings will repair it just fine . Look very closely along the top of the block below the head gasket - if they really overheat they can crack the block across to the exhaust valve seat - that means the block is junk .

 

First job with any newly acquired tractor I get - take the tins off that engine and commence the cleaning...

 

Sarge

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Kohler Ks are hard to kill. I would think the exhaust valve expanded at an open point and killed the compression - then released when it cooled. Anyway, keeping with the thread, I split the trans from the '76 C-120 today and it gets its look-see, bearings and seals this weekend. Moved it to a work bench location after it oozed milky brown slime from several poorly sealed locations. Former owners reinforced the rear of the frame with metal plate. They drilled holes in plate slightly misaligned so 1 of the 4 bolts was jammed into the trans at an angle but they didn't get more than a few threads in and gave up...will make it better.

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22 minutes ago, Tuneup said:

Kohler Ks are hard to kill. I would think the exhaust valve expanded at an open point and killed the compression - then released when it cooled.

 

Former owners reinforced the rear of the frame with metal plate. They drilled holes in plate slightly misaligned so 1 of the 4 bolts was jammed into the trans at an angle but they didn't get more than a few threads in and gave up...will make it better.

The frame I used on my 1276 was off a 1968 Raider 10 that had the factory reinforcement at the bottom. The original frame had cracked three times, last time it tore the center plate away from side plates and collapsed like a fold away bed! Have it all welded back up, just need to grind it down and add a reinforcement.

 

As far as the 857, pretty sure I cooked the rings, starts and runs "okay" but smokes quite a bit now till warmed up. Just ordered a complete rebuild kit for it today. Will probably swap the deck over to my other 857 and then start in on a complete restore since I have to pull the motor off anyway.

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