How to "adapt" 5 lug x 4.5 wheels to 3/4" axle stub shaft?

[ebinmaine 62,973]

Folks, 

 

 

What are the ways you're putting rear wheels on the front of tractors? I'm building a small log trailer on which is a 3/4" diameter straight axle and would reeely like to use the rear wheels and tires off my   B80...

Not looking for anything heavy duty and trying to be as "frugal" as possible.

[BOB ELLISON 2,976]

Just remember tractor tires are not made for hi way use. These tires will blow or come apart at hi speeds.

[ebinmaine 62,973]

Oh yeah!

I should mention this trailer strictly for off-road yard use..

Top speed a gut-wrenching... maybe 4mph?

Thanks Bob.

[groundhog47 347]

My friend Bill (pacer) made a hub for his front axels. Will see if can find his post from several years back.

[953 nut 51,536]

Take a look at these bushings.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#wheel-bearings/=188rvwx

[groundhog47 347]

Couldn't find his post but they looked like the hubs sold by Azusa manufacturing but believe they had the 4.5" x 5 bolt pattern.He cut a plate, made it circular, cut a hole centered for tube, that would allow fit by boring or direct fit of the 3/4" bearings, measured out and drilled holes for 1/2"-20 or 7/16"-20 studs (whichever he used), and welded tube  in position to allow clearance for wheel to turn. Of course this was for the small front tire, but same principal and if no turning radius involved would just need to clear carriage. Now he does have all the machining equipment though, but it came out just as good as Azusa hubs and fit his desired bolt pattern whereas Azusa only vends 4 bolt hubs as I recall.

Edited June 27, 2017 by groundhog47

[Achto 26,505]

One suggestion would be to use a 1" axle, this would make it easier to install common trailer hubs with the correct bot pattern.

Or make an axle using spindles like the ones in this site. http://www.easternmarine.com/carry-on-trailer-axle-spindle-152

Maybe not the most economical route, but it would simplify installation. 

Edited June 27, 2017 by Achto

[ebinmaine 62,973]

12 hours ago, Achto said:

One suggestion would be to use a 1" axle, this would make it easier to install common trailer hubs with the correct bot pattern.

Or make an axle using spindles like the ones in this site. http://www.easternmarine.com/carry-on-trailer-axle-spindle-152

Maybe not the most economical route, but it would simplify installation. 

 

I'm considering using a 1" axle but I already have the 3/4 on hand. 

We're gonna try out the trailer with that and if it needs to be stronger I'll upgrade.

 

I don't have a welder so I'm a little limited to what I can bolt on.

12 hours ago, groundhog47 said:

Couldn't find his post but they looked like the hubs sold by Azusa manufacturing but believe they had the 4.5" x 5 bolt pattern.He cut a plate, made it circular, cut a hole centered for tube, that would allow fit by boring or direct fit of the 3/4" bearings, measured out and drilled holes for 1/2"-20 or 7/16"-20 studs (whichever he used), and welded tube  in position to allow clearance for wheel to turn. Of course this was for the small front tire, but same principal and if no turning radius involved would just need to clear carriage. Now he does have all the machining equipment though, but it came out just as good as Azusa hubs and fit his desired bolt pattern whereas Azusa only vends 4 bolt hubs as I recall.

 

I did check their site and you're correct about the 4-lug only offering. 

 

I may have my local welder make up a plate/tube assembly into which I'll drill my 5 lug holes. 

[groundhog47 347]

Talked with Bill (pacer), he agrees that he posted a hub build and also will attempt to locate. He now is making a new set he said and I know they will be great.

[ebinmaine 62,973]

12 minutes ago, groundhog47 said:

Talked with Bill (pacer), he agrees that he posted a hub build and also will attempt to locate. He now is making a new set he said and I know they will be great.

 

  very much!

[groundhog47 347]

Finally found the post but turns out they are 4 bolt, for some reason didn't add picture but can look at post.

 

Edited June 28, 2017 by groundhog47

[Sarge 3,462]

I did an upgrade using 1" spindle axles and the 4 bolt trailer hubs from E-trailer , thread is located in the Restoration/Modifications section . There are some 3/4" bearing hubs , not sure if any would work with the 5 bolt pattern though . I did that upgrade quite awhile back and so far it's worked excellent , other than the stupid rubber boots I used on the heim joints - they are failing already . It steers so well and easy now it still hasn't worn the casting mold nubs off the tires , despite a lot of road miles and doing work in rock driveways/dirt work . The front BKT tires have performed awesome , even in hard packed snow too .

 

Sarge

[Tankman 3,515]

Try Xtreme Motor Works  (http://xtrememotorworks.com/Parts Catalog/Rim-Tire-Accessories-Cub-Cadet.html)

 

These are new front hub adaptors for the front of your garden tractor. They allow you to put a 5 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern rim on the front. They have 7/16" studs and conical nuts. For the 3/4" front axle shafts. Sold in pairs,unpainted.

 

Thrust washers are good to have, I keep a few in my Kennedy tool box.  (http://www.qbcbearings.com/Buy/ThrustBearings.php)

Edited July 4, 2017 by Tankman

[wallfish 15,911]

Buy 1 inch OD DOM steel tube and cut to length. Slip it on to the 3/4 spindle and use the 1" ID bearings of the trailer hubs. I also drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the spindle for a bolt to hold it on with a washer and 1" ID shims.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7776&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197

 

[ebinmaine 62,973]

9 hours ago, wallfish said:

Buy 1 inch OD DOM steel tube and cut to length. Slip it on to the 3/4 spindle and use the 1" ID bearings of the trailer hubs. I also drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the spindle for a bolt to hold it on with a washer and 1" ID shims.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7776&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197

 

 

 

All Great ideas.. Thanks everyone !

 

I'm going to call the welder when he re-opens from the holiday and see how much he'll charge to make up a couple 3/4 id tube/ plate flanges for me.

I have a decent drill press to put the 5-lug pattern in and a grease fitting.

 

It'll cost just under $100 to buy the DOM/hubs/spacers to convert to trailer hubs so I can use that as a comparison figure.

 

Like i said above I'm trying to be as frugal as possible but I also want this thing to last and be as safe/rugged as possible for the longest time possible.

 

My Honey and I tried out the trailer for a few loads over the last couple days and it's about how we envisioned it but I had only the "temp" wheels on it (from a garden cart) and snapped them. We had to offload a bit sooner but we got a good laugh a little more exercise anyhow...

 

 

[Sarge 3,462]

With those type of loads and the side thrust those wheels will be subjected to - I'd just go straight to making up a different axle or find a used snowmobile / utility trailer axle and modify it . It's easier to source heavy wall (3/8" or greater) round or square tubing and buy a pair of hubs/spindles and give you tapered roller bearings that will withstand those high loads easily . For what you're doing - I'd shoot for the 5 bolt 3500lb spindles and whatever you want for wheels . If you have a local welder - get the correct spindles and give him the specs you want for width - he will have access to the proper round/square tubing and know how to weld it properly .

 

My "yard trailer" weighs in around 450lbs empty . It's made from a 90* folded piece of diamond plate , some sheet steel and a lot of bracing . The axle was build from a set of 6 on 5.5" Toyota front axle spindles from a mini-truck (basically, 1 ton truck rated spindles) and a section of 4" heavy wall well casing . Sits on Toyota truck springs and I've had well over 5,000lbs in it - to the point of breaking the hydro drive belt on the old 1277 pulling it up a hill due to the weight . The trailer is almost 20yrs old now and has served us well around this area , hauling anything from rock to brush to black dirt and never blinked once . It took a load of broken concrete to break the original 2000lb axle I had narrowed in it , both spindles just folded up and this new setup should handle 5 times that load limit . Lot of guys also use old mini van rear axles that used the common 5x4.5" bolt pattern , some of those are fairly stout , too . If you could find one of the Toyota mini trucks , just grab it's rear axle and use that - they are one of the toughest axles ever designed for the given size/weight . Old Ford Rangers , Chevy S-10's , ect....

 

Sarge

[wallfish 15,911]

10 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Like i said above I'm trying to be as frugal as possible but I also want this thing to last and be as safe/rugged as possible for the longest time possible

 

I'm not so sure you can have both. 

Now that you posted a pic and we see what you're doing, I'd recommend going on Craigslist and find a cheap trailer, easily modified for your purpose. Loose the springs and bolt the axle right to the frame if they can't handle the load plus it will lower it. There are 4471 trailers for sale in Maine and/or post a wanted ad on there too. Quicker, easier, will last much longer and possibly cheaper or the same price as well. Saw one on there for a hundred bucks but Maine is a big area.

[ebinmaine 62,973]

19 hours ago, Sarge said:

It's easier to source heavy wall (3/8" or greater) round or square tubing and buy a pair of hubs/spindles and give you tapered roller bearings that will withstand those high loads easily . For what you're doing - I'd shoot for the 5 bolt 3500lb spindles and whatever you want for wheels . If you have a local welder - get the correct spindles and give him the specs you want for width - he will have access to the proper round/square tubing and know how to weld it properly

 

I'm thinkin' you're right...

"side" loads are something I hadn't put enough thought to when considering my axle size.

I designed the trailer to be able to hold about 1000 to 1200 pounds of wood but wouldn't often put that much in. 

I enjoy the experimentation of seeing what works and what doesn't... that didn't.

I'll poke around online for parts prices and then go see Mr. welder dude.

 

 

11 hours ago, wallfish said:

I'm not so sure you can have both. 

 

  hehe.. I like a challenge. 

12 hours ago, wallfish said:

find a cheap trailer,

 

Naahhh... I like to Build stuff.  

This trailer was/is made from scrap-pile pieces of PT deck rail posts I re-purposed from the front of my house when we ripped off the deck to install hand built granite steps made from ooold foundation stones.

 

[wallfish 15,911]

39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Naahhh... I like to Build stuff.

hehe.. I like a challenge.

Can't argue with that logic.  I've built many things which would've easier to buy.

You can find stuff here

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Wheels/Spindles-Wheel-Hubs/

Edited July 4, 2017 by wallfish

[Sarge 3,462]

E-trailer is also a good source for all trailer parts . I know they were pretty cheap when I did the front axle upgrading on the big D - that worked out far better than expected other than the Steinberger rubber heim joint boots have badly fallen apart far too easily - not impressed with that .

 

Keep your eyes open on local sale sites and FB groups - trailer axles show up at times for free...sometimes with a junk/wrecked trailer to boot .

 

Sarge