Jump to content
Fin_

C-125 Won't Fire

Recommended Posts

Alright will try again even though I did it very slowly for a long time and will recheck the point gaps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It might be easier in the long run to remove the air shroud find the marks paint them and then put the shroud back on.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah will do that today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took of the air shroud and tried looking for the markings. Would this be a T marking, it was the strongest marking I could see.

IMG_20170705_191032175.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

really hard to tell from the picture..... the T and the S are not far from each other on the fly wheel

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I remember correctly the timing marks are on this part of the flywheel. I don't see a T.

 

Garry

 

Kohler flywheel timing mark.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Judging solely from the amount of rust in that pic on the flywheel, your timing marks are long gone. The timing was never the problem as it ran before you parked it. First I would have checked for spark. If I didn't have it, checked for 12 volts on the coil with the key on. If present, I would have filed and set points , and recheck for spark at the plug. More than likely there was a coating on the points, or a fuel problem. The timing doesn't get off sitting. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Searcher60 has hit the nail on the head. The timing marks are gone not that you actually need them unless your using a dwell meter and timing light. Its a pretty simple procedure to set a simple set of points. Its not a set of dual points on your 406 Tri-power Ford after all. At .015-.020 it will start and run provided the points and condenser are good as well as the coil and your getting voltage to the coil under crank and run.

 

This is not rocket science. Anybody, heck my 9 year old grand daughter could set the points and get it running. Too much effort set forth trying to uncover the missing timing marks. Lets move on and devote the time to figuring out why it isn't running instead of crying over missing timing marks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When an engine runs, then is shut off and sits for a year, and when you try to start it again it won't fire up, it's not a timing problem. It's either oxidized points or a fuel problem. Timing won't change, spark plugs don't go bad just sitting, nor do ignition wires. Condensers can break down, but it's not common. Oxidized points will cause you to not have a spark. If you have a spark but a wet plug, you are flooded. Check the float valve when you take the carburetor off to thoroughly clean it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another LOGICAL post..  :techie-eureka:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going back to original post He said he had fuel compression and spark

 

Wheel horse c-125 with kohler 301 engine wont fire but turns over. I have made sure there is fuel getting to the engine and there is a strong enough spark to start it. Also we have good enough compression.

So what is the problem?

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since there was a lot of talk about the timing marks, here is how to find the approximate location if your flywheel is rusted.

 

This is where the marks are located, and what they are supposed to look like. This is a K301 flywheel.

FWedge.jpg.4b1277ba4bb0f2a8c6f8744a61b971b6.jpg

 

So, with the cover off, looking from the front, remove the nut and locate the keyway. Place it at the top (12 o'clock). Your TDC (T) mark will be at 9 o'clock with the (S) mark 5-1/2 to 6 teeth toward the top.

fw.jpg.853f3956b8b25d4d1058f25cdaf03518.jpg

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Since there was a lot of talk about the timing marks, here is how to find the approximate location if your flywheel is rusted.

 

This is where the marks are located, and what they are supposed to look like. This is a K301 flywheel.

FWedge.jpg.4b1277ba4bb0f2a8c6f8744a61b971b6.jpg

 

So, with the cover off, looking from the front, remove the nut and locate the keyway. Place it at the top (12 o'clock). Your TDC (T) mark will be at 9 o'clock with the (S) mark 5-1/2 to 6 teeth toward the top.

fw.jpg.853f3956b8b25d4d1058f25cdaf03518.jpg

 

 

 

Interesting info Bob.  I was working on a 10 Hp K241 on a 1075 (has a S/G),  the timing hole is on the rear side of the shroud.  On My 310-8 it is on the front. Apparently when they started putting ring gears on for electric starters they moved the timing marks and the sight hole.  Having them up front near the points makes life a lot easier...

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This flywheel is typical of a K-series with Bendix-type starter. Since @Fin_ is working on a K301AS, this should help him locate the marks if they are still there.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the help will look later today! Seems like were a bit mislead at the start.

Edited by Fin_

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it was my engine just beside getting it going I would want to find the timing marks anyway. Never know might need them one day. Then I guess that's just me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just filed down the points and we are getting a much stronger spark than before but still doesn't start so I'm going to look at the fuel again.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, Fin_ said:

Just filed down the points and we are getting a much stronger spark than before but still doesn't start so I'm going to look at the fuel again.

How are you testing the spark? Laying the plug on the block is not always a good test.   i assumed you had cleaned the points when you adjusted them.

Spray carb cleaner in as you crank does it fire???

Edited by pfrederi
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the gas good? Compression good? If you squirt  a few drops into the carb, then put the choke on, does it start for a few seconds? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

How are you testing the spark? Laying the plug on the block is not always a good test.   i assumed you had cleaned the points when you adjusted them.

Spray carb cleaner in as you crank does it fire???

 

Correct.  One needs to dress the points first followed by dragging a clean piece of newspaper thru the points to pull out any debris. Once the points are dressed ( free of pitting and level) and clean then and only then does one set the point gap. As pfrederi has suggested you can spray a little carb cleaner in or a little starting fluid/ether. In your situation I would suggest purchasing a spark tester. Remember knowledge comes from experience and maybe you might need to start at the beginning if you don't get results. 

On ‎7‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 7:38 AM, pfrederi said:

 

 

Interesting info Bob.  I was working on a 10 Hp K241 on a 1075 (has a S/G),  the timing hole is on the rear side of the shroud.  On My 310-8 it is on the front. Apparently when they started putting ring gears on for electric starters they moved the timing marks and the sight hole.  Having them up front near the points makes life a lot easier...

Good job on the flywheel pictures. Takes all the guess work out of re-marking the flywheel if someone desires to do so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fin

 

With a clean feeler gauge re-set the points. Spray a little starting fluid down the carb, close the choke and hit the starter and see if it starts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have cleaned and re-set the points with a feeler gauge and I will try spraying starter fluid down the carb once again, thanks.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it finally started.... Then it cut off again probably because I for some reason turned the choke off after I got it going. There was some fluid slowly seeping out of the spark plug hole so I tightened it and put some lock-tight on the thread, will update on how it goes tomorrow. Might be a fuel issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should not need locktite on the spark plug ...Are the threads in the head OK???   Dod you plug have a metal gasket on it??? Did you torque it to spec??? 18-22 ft lbs

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By cabin4me
      I have a 79 C-111 that I pulled a running 11hp briggs and stratton engine from and also a front push blade.  I am looking to sale both.  Push blade 200 Engine 100
      I also have the original mowing deck for this mower.  I am looking for a WH pull behind tiller attachment, maybe trade?
    • By dhr5050
      I am looking for an engine that will easily swap into my C100 that is not the K241AS. Any suggestions?
    • By D250power
      Hi I am looking for a distributor drive gear for the Renault 800  on the d250.  Also a cylinder head. I lost the gear.
    • By Rob R
      Hi folks Brewster Rob here, was gifted a Cub Cadet LTX 1040 in great shape other then a completely blown 19HP in-famous Kohler Courage SV590, today I acquired a 17HP Pro OHV CV490S in perfect running condition.... so I want to swap the engines. They have identical vertical shafts question is the electrical. The Courage had four wires coming from the engine red/green/white/purple, the Pro has 3 white, 1blk and 1 red.  I also have the alternator and regulator from the blown Courage.... might I be able to swap alternators???  I of course have the old Courage key switch I do NOT have the new engine key switch.........  Need help from the Red Square wizards and PLEASE think about the best result way to go here.... thank you in advance. 
    • By MAD MARK
      Bought this 310-8 for $100 came with a plow but no engine. Just want to put in the cheap HF $99 Predator 6.5hp. Searched on here and found that people have done this but I cant really find any information on what they needed to do to get it to work. Looks like about a 2" engine plate since the height of the PTOs are different and the mounting bolt locations are different. Besides that, any more tips or pointers?
       
      Just making this into a cheap plow tractor, I saw the linkage below the 310-8 is not like below my 312-8. It does not have a chain lift and just a straight bar. I mounted the blade to my 312-8 and it worked fine. Guessing the bar is so I can push down on the blade if need be? Is this something included in the plow package I missed before? Any insight there?
       
       


×