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Kirbyhorse

314-8 Drive belt problems

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Kirbyhorse

Hello, I just got my wheelhorse about a month ago and just had my first problem, it's a 314-8  1995 , the drive belt starting slipping and now it doesn't grab at all any help would be appreciated

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gwest_ca

Suspect the gas shock that provided pedal return has failed. Toro wants over $200 for the kit with a new one which includes a 108035 spring. The spring was all that was used on the early models so you may get by with using just it. The shock forced a slow engagement to prevent wheelies.

Garry

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Racinbob

:text-yeahthat: Wheel Horse just used the spring for decades and all was well. The damper on my 2005 drove me nuts so I simply removed it and now just use the spring like the good old days. :)

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N3PUY

drive belts just don't go bad unless broken or covered in oil.   Check the axle hubs and the input pulley.   Put your toe under the clutch pedal and pull up ... does that help?

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Kirbyhorse

I do not see any gas shock on my mower there is a spring attached to the rod from the clutch pedal, the drive belt spins the pulley on the transmission and the shaft with the notch is also spinning, in guessing the problem is in the transmission?

I was mowing for the first time today, and all of a sudden it was squealing , the mower was jerking like the belt was slipping , then it wasn't moving at all, input pulley spinning and wheels not moving at all, when I had the tractor on jacks when I spun one wheel it would spin the other wheel backwards, should the wheels be locked together like spin at the same time?

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doc724

It is normal for one wheel to spin backwards when you spin the other forward.  The gas shock is tucked under the drive belt cover so you have to remove it to get to the gas shock.  Check the advice of NU3PY (pull up on the clutch pedal with your toe).  If that fixes the problem, go buy a spring.  They are $10 or so and easy to install

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Kirbyhorse

I'm pretty sure that isn't my problem, I tried that and nothing changed, of the mower is in gear , I lift up on the clutch and input shaft is spinning but the wheels don't move at all

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Racinbob

You've most likely sheared a key. Could be the input pulley but most likely one of the hubs. Keep in mind that only one hub key needs to be sheared to stop the tractor. :)

Almost forgot..........:WRS:

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Kirbyhorse

How would I check to see if I sheared a hub key, I have the tranny disconnected from the mower right now, 

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Racinbob

Take a magic marker and swipe it across the hub and axle. Assuming you mean you have the drive belt removed you'll have to put it back on and then put it in gear and see what happens. You likely might that the axle spins in the hub without putting the belt back on and holding a wheel while spinning the other.

Edited by Racinbob

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Kirbyhorse

I have it up on jacks. When it's in gear I can move the rear wheels freely,is that normal? 

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Kirbyhorse

Right now I have the transaxle completely free of motor, the hubs are not spinning on the axle, there seems to be a disconnect between Imput shaft and axle, please help! I don't know what to do from here

IMG_0353.JPG

IMG_0354.JPG

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Racinbob

Does the hi/lo shifter feel ok? It can be between hi and lo and you won't go anywhere. You should be able to 'feel' it go in gear. It's kinda hard to explain. Originally, your model used a gas dampened spring that pushed the idler arm on the right side. If yours has a spring on the left side somebody has already made the change.

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Kirbyhorse

Some times when I move the hi low shifter it seems like it doesn't always engage, but now I can't get the gear shifter back in the right spot, like I can't change gears

Alright I got the gear shifter back in, if I have it in gear and I spin the input shaft , should it spin the axle, I would think it should

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Kirbyhorse

I'm guessing something went inside the transaxle case, are these hard to take apart? I can't find any tutorials on a rebuild 

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Racinbob

Very slowly. Remember how fast the engine spins it. When you installed the shifter were the forks in this position?

594fcf4daa9d2_shifterforks.jpg.52a3fb7c9c2dd6dd3cb7f228d80df404.jpg

 

That's the neutral position. Tighten the dogpoint setscrew until you feel resistance when shifting then back off a fuzz. Hold  the screw as you tighten the locknut (not shown....I need a new picture).

 

If you have to open it up they are actually pretty simple. Look in the reference section here and you'll find all sorts of help. We'll be here to help you too. :)

Edited by Racinbob

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Kirbyhorse

I can't figure it out , I put in in every gear and the input shaft and pulley spins but the hubs don't move, so I'm guessing something got disconnected in the transaxle, could you send me link to a thread for rebuilding these trans. I can't find anything on the 314-8

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Racinbob

Here's the service manual. Use section V. There might be a part number difference on a couple things so use your parts list but the service is the same.

 

 

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gwest_ca

Garry

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Kirbyhorse

found my problem

IMG_0357.JPG

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Kirbyhorse

I'm looking for some guidance on this, this gear that broke is on the top end of the input shaft, now I can pull the gear out, if I buy a new gear can I slide it in and be on my way? Can someone explain to me these needle bearings

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stevasaurus

Sent you a PM...call me.  :)  Good talking with you Shawm...here is the link.  :)

 

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Kirbyhorse

Starting taking the transmission apart and found a lot of debris, unsure of what to do next

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stevasaurus

Shawn, I think I know what happened in your transmission to cause the damage.  There is a "C" clip that should be on the splined shaft where that groove is.  A pinion gear sits on top of that clip. I think that clip fell off and that pinion gear slid down the splined shaft and jammed breaking up that gear and the spline shaft.

   At this point, you need to pull up on that higher fork gear along with the shift rail.  In the casting, between the shift rails, are 2 detente ball and a spring with a stop in it.  Try not to lose the balls as you pull out the shift rail. Then pull up on the lower fork gear and that shift rail.  You should then be able to take out the splined shaft and the rest of the parts.  Use the 59 page manual Section V to guide you...or call me again.  That "C" clip should be in there some where.  :)  Looking good Shawn.

 

  Looks like you lost a needle bearing also.  Not a big deal.  Great pictures by the way.  Exactly what we needed to see what happened.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Racinbob

I feel kinda bad giving a like to your pictures. But believe me, as Steve said it's because it's exactly what was needed to get help here. You're doing great and it's going to be saved. You've got the best guiding you. :)

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