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69-Raider-10

The 69 Raider 10 getting a makeover. Almost Done!

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Looking good!

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On 6/23/2017 at 9:45 PM, 69-Raider-10 said:

 

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More pics..

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Do you have a pic with those decals on it? 

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I can see you've put lots of time and effort in to your creation, looking very good. You might want to incorporate a starter solenoid between your key switch and the starter motor, outherwise you will burn out your key switch.

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If it has the older Cole Hersee ignition switch they are designed with very heavy contacts to handle the starter load. It's still not a bad idea to use a solenoid hidden somewhere if you want to keep the clean looks - removes that battery power out of the dash and from behind the fuel tank. Same design on my old 1277 - always disconnect the batteries on those prior to touching anything in that dash, lol....or boooom.

 

Sarge

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:text-coolphotos:     I like your idea of a "Key On" light on the dash.        :handgestures-thumbupright:

 Here is a very simple diagram for a battery ignition system with a solenoid. Like @Sarge said, you don't want un-fused electrical power behind the gas tank. I know that is how they were built but it isn't the safe way to go.5a89beeaba8d2_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.0c60cbbb647933981578063f3cf7cb35.jpg

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Plus, the use of a solenoid will extend the lifespan of those rare Cole-Hersee switches - they do not last forever when the starters get worn or have a bad set of brushes, especially the older starter-gens . I plan to update my 1277 when I rebuild it - hate having that much amperage sitting in the dash. They worked fine, but it's a danger that wasn't necessary in my opinion and hd solenoids were available at the time these were built , albeit a bit larger than what we have today. Put a modern agm high CCA battery in an older tractor and those switches won't last all that long too, just fyi.

I can't recall - did the '69 Raider use the L key or just a straight one ?

 

Can't wait to see that one done - it's going to be pretty nice, great job.

 

Sarge

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On 2/18/2018 at 1:19 AM, Joshn569 said:

 

Do you have a pic with those decals on it? 

Funny you should ask Josh! I do! Im just now putting the final touches on her! All I have left is drilling holes in the straight pipe to baffle the sound and slow the air down coming back in, hook up the LED mini bar and fit the headlight cover back on, adjust the governor, hook up the backup light, and time the ignition one more time. She hums beautifully in idle but shes breaking up pretty good when I throttle up. I'm a little concerned actually. I dont think the ignition timing is far off at all. Maybe a 1/4" from the S mark on the flywheel when the points crack. Ive had worse than that and barely noticed a problem. Nut? Sarge? Any idears? 

Heres a few pics recently. Remember, I wasnt doing a restore, this is my cutting tractor so its made for my needs but pretty. LOL Ag tires arent on in these pics either. And the rims arent painted yet. Add that to my todo list.

Its a push button start because of the motor swap. Went from a Lauson (Tecumseh) 10 with SS Ignition over to a K181. I hated the SS ignition. I added a 12v power source (cig lighter), and used the solenoid off the Commando 8. I just picked up a new baby today to play with. Look for a new post on that one. ;)

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On 2/18/2018 at 1:19 AM, Joshn569 said:

 

Do you have a pic with those decals on it? 

Funny you should ask Josh! I do! Im just now putting the final touches on her! All I have left is drilling holes in the straight pipe to baffle the sound and slow the air down coming back in, hook up the LED mini bar and fit the headlight cover back on, adjust the governor, hook up the backup light, and time the ignition one more time. She hums beautifully in idle but shes breaking up pretty good when I throttle up. I'm a little concerned actually. I dont think the ignition timing is far off at all. Maybe a 1/4" from the S mark on the flywheel when the points crack. Ive had worse than that and barely noticed a problem. Nut? Sarge? Any idears? 

Heres a few pics recently. Remember, I wasnt doing a restore, this is my cutting tractor so its made for my needs but pretty. LOL Ag tires arent on in these pics either. And the rims arent painted yet. Add that to my todo list.

Its a push button start because of the motor swap. Went from a Lauson (Tecumseh) 10 with SS Ignition over to a K181. I hated the SS ignition. I added a 12v power source (cig lighter), and used the solenoid off the Commando 8. I just picked up a new baby today to play with. Look for a new post on that one. ;)

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2 minutes ago, 69-Raider-10 said:

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Looking good. I like what you have done with the headlight 

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5 minutes ago, Joshn569 said:

Looking good. I like what you have done with the headlight 

Thanks man! Its a hell of alot brighter thats for sure! :lol:

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On 2/18/2018 at 1:04 PM, 953 nut said:

:text-coolphotos:     I like your idea of a "Key On" light on the dash.        :handgestures-thumbupright:

 Here is a very simple diagram for a battery ignition system with a solenoid. Like @Sarge said, you don't want un-fused electrical power behind the gas tank. I know that is how they were built but it isn't the safe way to go.5a89beeaba8d2_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.0c60cbbb647933981578063f3cf7cb35.jpg

Does it look better now that its wired up? I have a solenoid in there. 

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On 2/18/2018 at 1:13 PM, Sarge said:

Plus, the use of a solenoid will extend the lifespan of those rare Cole-Hersee switches - they do not last forever when the starters get worn or have a bad set of brushes, especially the older starter-gens . I plan to update my 1277 when I rebuild it - hate having that much amperage sitting in the dash. They worked fine, but it's a danger that wasn't necessary in my opinion and hd solenoids were available at the time these were built , albeit a bit larger than what we have today. Put a modern agm high CCA battery in an older tractor and those switches won't last all that long too, just fyi.

I can't recall - did the '69 Raider use the L key or just a straight one ?

 

Can't wait to see that one done - it's going to be pretty nice, great job.

 

Sarge

Thsnks Sarge! I do have a fuse coming off the Battery post on the switch I believe? Solenoid is in there by the starter in front of the battery box. I'll snap some more pictures tomorrow. 

I am concerned about the breakup just past idle. It sounds like if you had your choke halfway closed when it was warm and you maxxed the throttle. Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks again!!

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, 69-Raider-10 said:

I am concerned about the breakup just past idle. It sounds like if you had your choke halfway closed when it was warm and you maxxed the throttle. Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks again!!

 

the tractor is lookin' mighty fine!

 

have you fiddled much with the mixture settings on your carb? 

Edited by classiccat

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Either the timing is off too far or the main run jet in the carb is plugged up. Have you checked the governor setting?

 

Sarge

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13 hours ago, 69-Raider-10 said:

concerned about the breakup just past idle.

Your ignition points also set the ignition timing so you should use the static timing method to set them. may want to remove the flywheel cover to locate the timing marks and make this easier.

Kohler static_timing.pdf

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On 3/4/2018 at 7:14 AM, classiccat said:

 

the tractor is lookin' mighty fine!

 

have you fiddled much with the mixture settings on your carb? 

I actually swapped carbs with my 854 and it did the same thing. I'm at a loss on this one. 

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On 3/4/2018 at 2:27 PM, 953 nut said:

Your ignition points also set the ignition timing so you should use the static timing method to set them. may want to remove the flywheel cover to locate the timing marks and make this easier.

Kohler static_timing.pdf

 

On 3/4/2018 at 8:44 AM, Sarge said:

Either the timing is off too far or the main run jet in the carb is plugged up. Have you checked the governor setting?

 

Sarge

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I actually swapped points out, set the gap twice, and static timed it as many times. One of the first things I do when I get a K Series motor is pop the blower Housing and clean/paint the 20deg and TDC marks on the flywheel, along with the timing mark on the block. Makes for easier timing in the future. This thing is almost dead nuts (if not dead nuts) on. I didn't fool with the governor setting. That could make it break up at higher RPMs? Never thought about that before. 

Another thing I noticed today is it has no power to the wheels. It moves real slow when at a fast idle before it breaks up, but going up a small incline it barely turns the wheels. My other Horses at idle would be hard pressed to be stopped by much anything. Recently replaced all the seals and gaskets. Could I have forgot one or something? Man this is making me crazy. Thanks for the help gents. Much appreciated! 

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I am just stopping by. I restore these old tractors, running out of room. Do you keep track of your labor time? I also rebuild old kohler. Still on the pallet

I notice you paint the whole engine, I have my blocks blasted. Then prime then top coat red. But I don't paint the cylinder fins. This helps keeping the engine cool. 

Nice job on restore.

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