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littleredrider

518 repower with briggs vanguard 16 horse

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littleredrider

I searched here and on the web, but getting conflicting info. Some are saying they used OEM parts with no modifications while others had to cut weld whatever. I called a dealer to see if they and parts for a GT style (1848, 1642 style) and when he looked up the PTO bracket that bolts to the motor, said that they were the same between briggs Kohler and Onan. I have the peices off the 518, but thought would be whole heck of a lot easier to bolt em on instead of fabbin' it all. So what parts do i need? Anybody got any?

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JAinVA

What is not working?I just did a Predator swap for an Onan 216.The OEM pto bracket bolted up but needed some relief (grinder) to fit flush.The brake pad had to be shimmed 5/8" to allow high speed pulley to work.

It may be helpful if you could tell us what doesn't fit or have some pictures.

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littleredrider

The bracket doesn't even come close to bolting on, not including the muffler being in the way. In order for the bracket to bolt on, motor needs to be raised, and the bracket needs to be moved 1" or so above the pulley. Not a huge deal, I was gonna weld a piece and drill some holes. I got the holes drilled in the frame and motor where I think it should go, belt lines up and crank center line looks to be centered over the PTO hoop hole in motor plate. I might not even put the PTO on, I mowed with the 42" and it sucks in tall grass. But see how things go. I'll try to get pics but with satellite internet it sucks big time!!!! 

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JAinVA

The Onan centerline is 7" above the frame rail.I am not sure of the Vanguard centerline height.I mounted the Pred on a spare Onan plate mount to give me a clean slate to drill holes.I did not have to redrill the frame so it can be returned to stock.Having swapped many auto engines over the years has made the engine changeout  a minor annoyance rather than a major pain.

Edited by JAinVA

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littleredrider

I swapped many motors in these and in cars/trucks, so this isn't new to me. Years ago I put a 10 horse diesel on a 520 frame, 13 horse predator in lawn ranger.  I have a 520-8 to use as a reference, but I think not having all my tools with me is making it harder. I guess I was getting frustrated reading how some the swap was a bolt on, others had fab work to do. Looked all over c-list looking for a parts tractor with no luck, and amusingly calling dealers if they had anything. Now that the motor is bolted down, now I can get a better look at the PTO and see what needs to be done.

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boomers_influence

littleredrider and club

FYI

your P 218 is 47.7 CID

the 16 vanguard is 29.2 CID

can you say TORQUE?

thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy, also NOS and new )

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littleredrider

We'll see how it goes. I know my 520-8 is a beast so far.... not looking for a monster just something the g/f can use n daughter since it's hydro. After I get it going and verify the hydro works, swap it out for an 1100 with hydro lift and put s plow on it, maybe some rear plows or something....right now just wanna get it going...

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JAinVA

I hear ya!I like the smoothness and power of my Onans but the the Pred swap was the quickest way to check out the Eaton and tractor overall.The biggest issue is that the Pred has ample power and starts right up so it may stay on the 416h for a while.I hope it works out for you.

Edited by JAinVA

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littleredrider

If anything happens to the onan I will get a predator to put on. I had a couple of them and are great engines for the price. I beat the 13 horse I had on a ranger, kept starting every time. Seemed like it had more than 13 horse, it never would lug. Would smoke a belt before lugged down. 

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littleredrider

Well motor is bolted down and running. Heard it run before and ran good so no surprise. But looks like everything lined up so once get upper bracket welded up the PTO should work. But also glad that the hydro works. If it wasn't for a noisy idler assembly the whole machine is quiet! But the v-twin sounds sweet. Now I'm starting on the wiring, getting rid of the guages since the needle broke off one, terminals corroded off the others and don't want any unnecessary stuff. Just to get it to start, run and shut off with the key. Then need to get tires. Ones on it will work, but fronts are pretty dry rotted, heavy cracking on one tho it looks new. The rears are the same. Picked them at a junkyard off a Jacobson big mower that had 10" rims. Surprisingly they fit without moving the hubs. But one tire looked to be absolutely trashed, but aired it up and only leaks out the valve stem. Other looks new. But wanna put ags on it, need something with more traction than turfs have.....

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littleredrider

So motor is in and running, been using it a little here and there. Now I'm trying to figure out the charging system. I stripped all the wiring off the tractor, most gauges, switches and sensors and whatever other electric device was were pretty corroded anyways. I did use the tractors key switch/harness, not exactly the same but it works. I think I figured out what regulater/alternator system I have, but can't find what to hook where. When I took motor out of donor I'm made sure I grabbed all wiring that pertained to the motor, and then maybe some extra just in case. The wires coming out of the motor were bundled together, so had 12'vtd going to them. I'm assuming one of those wires that comes from the regulator would go to the battery to charge it. I called a dealer just to verify, they told me that they never seen a regulator hooked directly to the battery, it goes thru the tractors wiring, gauges, sensors, switches, etc. what difference would it make going directly to the battery over the wiring which works its way back to the battery?? Not saying the guy didn't know what he was talking about but it didn't make sense to me. These motors were used in equipment that didn't have a wiring harness, so how is this application any different?? 

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chip61

I am by-passing the harness in my basket case 416. Looking at the wiring diagram it appears the lead goes from the regulator through the harness directly to the battery-not through the switch like some of the older ones I have worked on. I am going to try running it direct to the battery and see what happens if I ever get time to work on it.

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littleredrider

What I'm gonna do when I get home, after buying a battery. PITA taking it in/out of the 520 every time wanna use it lol.....

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JAinVA

On the predator 13 the lead for battery charging is tied directly to the positive battery post.It charges the battery only if is running,I can't say if it is connected to the on-off position of the switch.It tells me one thing though since it will run with no battery connected to it that toasting an RandR if it is not hooked to the battery maybe suspect info.I doubt you will hurt anything by having the charging lead hooked straight to the battery but isolating it with the switch won't hurt either.JMHO.

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littleredrider

I can't see how it could do damage if it's directly hooked to battery. It's there to charge it so why go thru all the wiring only to lose amperage/voltage on its way. I need to get my multimeter and see what its doing. On the plus side, I got the PTO hooked up, had to take muffler off (which I knew) and the pulley brake to get it to bolt on. I needed to trim the keyway down before I could slide the bushing on all the way so turn could install the bell and hoop. Need to get some mufflers to finish the exhaust and see how it does.....

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