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zeke37

sheared stud c-160

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zeke37

OK so the stud has sheared. EZ out? is it done for?   any info appreciated.

 

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WHX??

EZ out should get that out. Start by  filing a flat spot to get a good center punch in the center. Drill a small hole working your way up ez out size. Your favorite penetrant  and/or heat may be required. 

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squonk

Isn't that the stud that's supposed to help release the PTO clutch that has been eliminated on most of them?  Might just be able to leave it. 

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:One of these days I do have to buy that welder!

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zeke37

I think the stud holds the PTO Shaft in. It literally fell out of the clutch when I touched it and had a chunk of the broken stud in it. If I am wrong about this I'll be very happy, but I believe the stud is what keeps everything together.

 

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Racinbob

I'm thinking like Mike is. Something like that happened to my C160 years ago.....make that 3+ decades. I don't think the owner for the past 17 years ever messed with it and it's still fine today. The bearing race is held captive to the facing and essentially the loop keeps everything else in place in place. Anyways.....that's what I'm thinking but I've slept a bunch of times since then :confusion-scratchheadblue:

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squonk

Yes. My 76 C-160 shows the stud,spring and related parts inside the PTO. Newer tractors shows that stud ect. eliminated. If I remember right mine came apart years ago. I replaced the outer brg. stud the hoop hooks to and the retaining snap ring. i think my worn out stud wiggled out.  I would file it smooth. 

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zeke37

Oh good news, but I am still experiencing, the tractor bogging down in tall grass. could the clutch plate be the issue? 

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Racinbob

If the engine is bogging down, assuming it's in good shape and the blades are sharp, you're probably going too fast. I use 2nd gear and in the really tall stuff I will go down to 1st if I start laboring the engine too much. You can also make more than one pass. First with the deck all the way up then lower on the next pass.

 

If just the deck is bogging down and not the engine and assuming your lining and the belt is tensioned properly is good then you need to tighten the pto. Pull the pin out of the trunnion and tighten it a little at a time and see if that helps.

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squonk

judging by your fuzzy pic of the clutch disc in the background, it's seen better days. C5147439-53A4-4946-BBC5-4FEBCB1CC4C2.JPG.8fba294417690f8e4ba3ac65c66b93c1.jpg.e03bd7b66624a76ed6ad99ad747232d1.jpg

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zeke37

About to post a better pict,but would a worn out clutch plate cause a bog on tall grass?  I plan on replacing it immediately 

 but am wondering if I am addressing the problem.

 

 

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Edited by zeke37

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squonk

When you say bog, do you mean the blades are bogging down or the whole tractor? 

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zeke37

just blades, 

pto stops moving, engine is still running strong, and when I tighten the belt it stops as well, although no notice in engine.

 

Edited by zeke37

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squonk

Sounds like the disc is slipping to me. If it was gripping well, the engine would slow down and labor with the blades. Lets see a pic of the PTO bell surface that presses against the disc. I see uneven wear on that disc. Your bell may be worn out. 

Edited by squonk

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zeke37

looks like it is scored a little bit but is it worn out? how can you tell? I do see some drop from the inside to the outer edge. could this be machined out or is it done? Mike I really appreciate your wisdom and time helping me out. 

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squonk

Looks like it got hot and is warped. If I remember right someone on the forum had one machined once. Maybe @wallfish? If not they are always on E-bay.

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ericj

have you tried like people have suggested above and tightened the trunion. If loose a lot of times they will squeal when they start to slip. It migh take several turns to get it to tighten up

 

 

 

 

 

eric j 

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