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I ordered the little L70AE Yanmar air cooled diesel tonight, along with a tapered shaft to 1" keyed shaft adapter.  The K181 will be coming out and the diesel going in very soon. Need to get my yards cut early in the week so I have enough down time to get it in and sorted out before they need mowed again.  The Yanmar is set up for 24vdc for starter and a pair of intake grid heaters for very cold weather starts.  I am in debate mode what to do with it.  Most depends on if the extended air filter mount due to the intake heaters helps or hurts hood clearance.  I can get a 12vdc starter for $65 for it.  There is a place under the seat pan to place a second battery and I can run cables forward thru holes in the bulkheads with gromets to protect the cables.  Then tap 12vdc off one battery for the lights.  I know the yanmars will start in the local weather without any preheat, so chances are, I will convert to 12vdc.  The engine lacks charging, I can add that, but I rarely use the lights on the horse and I planned to put LED bulbs in them anyways.  So a simple float charger will work for now to keep the battery up.  Pics coming once I start the conversion.      Mike

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I'm curious but why is it called autism Horse? Can you post a pic of the Yanmar? 

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Posted (edited)

Because she sports custom decals done for me by a member here on the hood and fender pan.  I will get some pics of the Yanmar from ebay, he has one more of them left for sale last I looked.   Mike

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Edited by artfull dodger
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Here is the Horse today, awaiting the arrival of FedEx.  Since I took the pic, I removed the fuel tank and installed a return line fitting at the top of the tank.  And FexEx arrived, took me 30 min to unbox the engine as they incase it in "great stuff" expanding foam!   It arrived safe and sound to say the least.  I can see that I will have to relocate the battery to the area under the seat to give me the room to line up the crankshaft with the mower PTO.   More pics later.   Mike

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would it be easier to get one of the plastic fuel tanks that mount under the seat and move the battery to where the current tank is?

 

 

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Yes and no, its easier to run a cable then have to set up a fuel pump set up to feed the diesel injector pump.  I measured the cubby under the seat, and the battery will fit nicely back there.  I just got home from Rural King with a battery cable, HD push button for the intake grid heater(they will work of 12vdc!)  I am going to use 1 of the two intake heaters to keep battery consumption resonable.  I put 12vdc to one of the pair and it got hot pretty fast.  I will use the old generator lamp in the dash to indicate the intake heater is on.  I will have to notch the hood a bit on one side to clear the intake system.  I suspect there will be enough room to put a replacement decal just above the intake.  Wont know till I put a few spacer washers between the hood and the hood hinge.  In stock form, the hood will close, but its touching the top of the valve cover on the engine.  I will have to shorten the decompression lever to clear the hood as well, but that is only for pull starting and there will be enough left to use when necessary.  Pics after I get done eating lunch.    MIke

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Next round of pics!!!   Here is where I am at with it.  I drilled new holes in LH frame rail, welded mounting tabs on RH frame rail and bolted engine in place.  Plumbed in the fuel and fuel return lines to the factory fuel tank, found out that the intake heaters will work on 12vdc so I reduced them to a single bank as powering both with a normal L&G battery might leave little to crank her over with if its really cold.  I picked up a heavy duty momentary push button switch and mounted it where the choke cable used to be on the dash.  I wired the old generator red indicator light to the switch so I know I am getting power to the intake heater.  I also picked up the long battery cable and covers to go over the terminals on the battery to protect it from shorting out.  I think the throttle cable is long enough, but I need a screw lock mount to connect it to the throttle lever on the front of the diesel.  With only rope starting, it took awhile to bleed the fuel system, but once cleared of air, she fires right up.  Just roll it easy till you hit compression, stop and depress the compression release lever, put foot on front tire, and yank the rope hard.  Throttle control is right on the front of the engine for the moment till I get the cable hooked up.  I let it run at mid rpm for about 30 min, then idled down and shut it down.  About that time the mail arrived and low and behold my tapered shaft adapter showed up.  I installed it and the tripple cast stock Wheelhorse pulley and fitted up the belt cover, had to drill a couple new holes and add a spacer or two, but I just finished driving the horse around.  I will need a slightly longer belt for the mower PTO.  Thats fine as the original one has WH markings and is probably close to original and is about shot anyways.   Mike

 

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Got out in the garage and finished up the horse, other than the starter, before it got really hot out.  Got the decal removed on one side of the hood, notched out the hood to clear the intake assembly and reinstalled the hood.  Trimmed the opening under the seat open just a bit larger and set the battery in place, wired that up to the starter so I could sort out the rest of the wiring.  Everything works, grid heater, lights ect.  And I can "bump" the starter.  So once the 12vdc starter arrives, I can key start her.  I got the old engine sold, took that money and got a new air filter and a complete 12vdc charging system ordered.  Other than dealing with decals on the intake side of the hood, she is mostly done and ready to go to work.  Might try mowing a bit this afternoon.   She starts on one pull with the rope starter.  I extended the exhaust about 3 inches to clear the hood by an inch or so, that should keep any soot off the paint.  Mike

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Mailman delivered to me a 12vdc starter today, so it has been swapped in.  Now I can fire up the diesel with the key switch.  Works excellent, should have the parts to install charging for the battery early next week. I have to pull the flywheel and install a metal cup containing the magnets, the stator ring on the engine block, and a regulator that mounts on the side of the engine below the starter.  Then just a single wire to the battery for charging.  Mike

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