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Posted (edited)

Looks very nice.  I do hope you are getting a bigger cable for your + battery terminal and from the solenoid to starter.  Should be at least 6 gauge.

 

Are you  getting 12v to the small + terminal on the coil.  For you rPTO issue look at this thread about what is involved i Electric PTO repair.

 

A manual PTO is  viable alternative and simple swap.

 

 

Edited by pfrederi
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You've been busy.  Right above the battery where the wires are going thru a steel sleeve is the only problem I see.

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The "steel sleeve" is a fuel line mounting point. Upgrade the battery wiring and you should be good to go.

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Posted (edited)

The "steel sleeve" and the wires are not a good mix. After a while the insulation will chap and you will have a short. I suggest that you use a NON conductive sleeve inside the "steel Sleeve" to eliminate possible trouble in the future. The steel sleeve may be fine for a rubber fuel line to run thru it but that is even questionable.  Its better to go a little on the safe side than chance a fuel line leak in the case of the "Steel Sleeve" or electrical wires chaffing and shorting against metal or ground as it would be.

 

After looking at the battery cable it needs to be a larger diameter to carry the draw.

Edited by 6bg6ga
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Posted (edited)

I agree that the starter circuit wire needs to be a #8 or #6 AWG. Also the battery negative wire should be moved to the engine block, perhaps a starter mounting bolt or engine mounting bolt. I keep some scraps of PEX plumbing pipe in the shop to use as a conduit for wires or fuel lines if it looks like chafing could occur. Any home under construction will have scraps in the trash when the plumber gets done, unless they are like me and they bring them home!   :teasing-tease:

 

 

Edited by 953 nut
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On 6/11/2017 at 3:27 PM, pfrederi said:

Looks very nice.  I do hope you are getting a bigger cable for your + battery terminal and from the solenoid to starter.  Should be at least 6 gauge.

 

Are you  getting 12v to the small + terminal on the coil.  For you rPTO issue look at this thread about what is involved i Electric PTO repair.

 

A manual PTO is  viable alternative and simple swap.

 

 

Thanks everyone!!! I figured it out that it was the points werent gapped properly. Thats why i didnt get spark. No it backfires because the intake valve is hanging open. and i know i need bigger gauge wire it was temp job i did. It was just what i had laying around for the time being. And id rather keep the pto electric since i have nothing invested in it yet.

by the way...

I thought the metal sleve is where the wiring went because thats where it sat when i first got this thing. so when i get home i will move the wiring and when i go to the repair shop this weekend ill get the proper gauge wiring i need. I will also move the battery ground to the engine block bolts

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The two bearings in the electric PTO can be had and are not that expensive I paid about $25 for the two of them.  You may need a shim or two depending on the bearing surface in your PTO they used different ones over time.

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so yesterday i changed the battery cables, bumped them up to 6 gauge wire, also installed new band clamps with rubber around it.IMG_5443.PNG.af3576641bc613d6f10c77d0e382faca.PNG

 

 

i found out that where i mounted my starter solenoid that the hood brace was touching the power terminal on the starter side of the solenoid so i had to flip it like this. the part circled is the mounting post the hood was hitting and arcing off of.

IMG_5445.PNG.e37304f11cab666a0ee72f5060c3b8bf.PNG 

 

so i clean the carb, pour some fuel in it and it runs... the pto even works!!!! but the bearing is blown out of it so i have a friend that makes high speed bearings, he can make bearings for me if i cant find new ones. other then pieces to function n saftey like the shifter cover plate and the mule drive this things ready to go. thanks again everyone. when i do the resto, ill be sure to post the build up!

On 6/13/2017 at 1:20 PM, pfrederi said:

The two bearings in the electric PTO can be had and are not that expensive I paid about $25 for the two of them.  You may need a shim or two depending on the bearing surface in your PTO they used different ones over time.

pto works i just need bearings

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6207-40nsl  and 6204-nsl  ball bearings if you cn't source locally try EB Atmus

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4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

6207-40nsl  and 6204-nsl  ball bearings if you cn't source locally try EB Atmus

where can i get them from?

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6 hours ago, 1.big.l said:

where can i get them from?

 

Every bearing has a number on it a part number. These can be cross referenced to other manufacturers other brands. As long as a number can be seen a replacement most of the time can be found actually about 99% of the time. There are a few proprietary bearings that cannot be purchased one of which is the shaft bearing for a Pro Charger  P1200 supercharger of which the bearing manufacturer ONLY sells to Pro Charger. It however is a 65,000 RPM bearing. It is highly doubtful that Wheel Horse had any such agreement with a bearing manufacturer since the bearing used is a extremely common everyday type bearing.  

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1 hour ago, 6bg6ga said:

 

Every bearing has a number on it a part number. These can be cross referenced to other manufacturers other brands. As long as a number can be seen a replacement most of the time can be found actually about 99% of the time. There are a few proprietary bearings that cannot be purchased one of which is the shaft bearing for a Pro Charger  P1200 supercharger of which the bearing manufacturer ONLY sells to Pro Charger. It however is a 65,000 RPM bearing. It is highly doubtful that Wheel Horse had any such agreement with a bearing manufacturer since the bearing used is a extremely common everyday type bearing.  

Ok so as long as i cam find 1 of each of 

those bearings i will be ok? I found some results on amazon and ebay.

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21 minutes ago, 1.big.l said:

Ok so as long as i cam find 1 of each of 

those bearings i will be ok? I found some results on amazon and ebay.

 

I have not had good luck purchasing bearings off Ebay and I question Amazon quality also.  If it were me I would go to the local bearing shop with both bearings in hand. The reason I suggest that you take the originals with you is there is another factor and that is the tolerance of the bearing. Some like (example) the 608Z is available in different tolerances. The 608Z NT is a precision motor bearing for the Bodine gear reduction motor. However, a standard 608Z  ABCD tolerance bearing will vary so much that it cannot be used in that instance.

 

Pay a little more and purchase only once and you will be happy that you don't have to make multiple purchases to obtain EXACTLY what you need.  Having said that...generally a numbered bearing will exchange with another of the same number. So, the numbers have to be exactly the same. The example again the 608Z NT isn't the same as a 608Z ABCD or a 608ZZ.

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27 minutes ago, 6bg6ga said:

 

I have not had good luck purchasing bearings off Ebay and I question Amazon quality also.  If it were me I would go to the local bearing shop with both bearings in hand. The reason I suggest that you take the originals with you is there is another factor and that is the tolerance of the bearing. Some like (example) the 608Z is available in different tolerances. The 608Z NT is a precision motor bearing for the Bodine gear reduction motor. However, a standard 608Z  ABCD tolerance bearing will vary so much that it cannot be used in that instance.

 

Pay a little more and purchase only once and you will be happy that you don't have to make multiple purchases to obtain EXACTLY what you need.  Having said that...generally a numbered bearing will exchange with another of the same number. So, the numbers have to be exactly the same. The example again the 608Z NT isn't the same as a 608Z ABCD or a 608ZZ.

Ok i can do that

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