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wrmhaste

Loader questions

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wrmhaste

Hi guys, I'm going to be building a loader soon and was wondering what the general cylinder size was on everyone else's. Length, diameter, throw? Also if you have one what would you change if you could? Lift height, degree of curl? 

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RandyLittrell

Check out PF Engineering's site. He has plans for sale and lots of people have used them. 

 

http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/

 

 

 

 

Randy

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KC9KAS

@wrmhaste I have a loader (ARK 550) for my D-200, but haven't installed it due to the front wheels/spindles needing upgraded.

From what most folks say, the curl (or lack there of) does not roll back far enough, leaving the bucket somewhat flat when raised and dirt/rock/whatever falling out of the bucket.

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mmmmmdonuts

I have bought the PF Engineering plans. I am in the middle of building it right now and they use 4 cylinders that are all 2x16x1.25. There are some things that I have changed or modified, and some things that I would have done different but I got a great deal on the cylinders. The one thing I recommend is stick with JIC's or SAE on the hoses and ditch the NPT as much as you can.

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wrmhaste

Thanks guys. I haven't had too much time for projects lately. Mainly due to work and then working on "angry horse". Angry horse is almost ready to be ripped apart for paint so it's time to start the loader. I've been collecting steel and parts here and there for a couple weeks now. Any cheap places to order cylinders? Currently I'm looking at ordering through surplus center. And as far as hoses I make my own so they will definitely be jic or sae. I will also take into account the amount of curl I end up with before it's too late to change. 

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mmmmmdonuts

I got my cylinders from dalton hydraulics. These are the ones I got. http://www.daltonhydraulic.com/maverick-2500-psi-tie-rod-cylinder-2-bore-x-16-stroke 

 

They are tie rod instead of welded and many people perfer the welded because it does have it advantages. 

 

I ordered my pump from surplus center and the hoses and fittings from universalhoseandfittings. 

 

If you need help sizing some of the hydraulics such as the pump and cycle times I can help you with some of the math as well. 

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wrmhaste

Those cylinders are a bit cheaper. Are they going to be long enough though? I was thinking in the 20" range. Do you happen to have a link to the pump you chose? I've heard the GPM is very important on the smaller ones. Too little makes it slow. Too much becomes jerky. 

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mmmmmdonuts

My pump runs at the front pto of my tractor which is 2000 rpm and I sized it to run 3/4 to full throttle. I have to look it up which one I actually ordered but  it would be two fast for your application most likely. Its a direct coupled drive so I can't change the speed with a pulley. Most people here tend to run it off the engine shaft and size a pulley according to get the speed they want. This is the one a lot of people use: http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200329712_200329712?hotline=false 

 

 

 

Surplus center should have a comprobable but it might not be bidirectional. 

 

I would imagine a 20" would be too big for a garden tractor. I have people one other forums use 18" with 14" for the curl. The size and the speed you want your cylinders to run will dictate the size of the pump. 

 

What tractor are you planning on putting it on? 

Edited by mmmmmdonuts
Added a few notes

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wrmhaste

Great info. Thanks. I'm not sure what tractor it will be on permanently. I'd like to get another 520 for it. But I might just take a 314 I have and my extra 520 parts and build franken-loader

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Rexemouse

I have the pf loader.  The curl is great, unlike the kwikway which uses shorter cylinders up front resulting jn less curl.

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wrmhaste

Thanks for all the advice everyone. However I no longer need to build a loader. Just picked up a d250 with one. I do need help finding a head gasket for it though

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