1977 D200 auto trans axle problem

[Gregn96cuda 0]

I joined this site to help a retired carpenter friend that doesn't use computers. He has a tractor that won't make a complete revolution. It goes one turn then stops, in forward or reverse. He was driving it the day before without any problems. He didn't give me any numbers other than it's a D 2!00. I have left him a message to get info off of the ID tags. Any help would be appreciated. 

[pfrederi 17,147]

open the tow valve one turn (in the hole with the decal next to it left side of tractor) then try to push the tractor forwards and backwards...Does it stop after one turn or can you push it a distance.  if it stops do not force it.  A differential bolt may have broken and  is getting wedged between the differential and the tranny case .  If you force it too hard it can crack the case.

[pacer 3,159]

Excellent suggestion from paul f -- but to clarify, by one revolution you ARE referring to the rear wheels making a turn? When pushing the lever forward or pull back the wheels only go one rev?

 

Sadly if this is the case it probably indicates a serious problem...

[Gregn96cuda 0]

Wow, you guys are fast! He told me that when he puts it in forward it  stops like it's jammed up.  He puts it in reverse and the rear wheels make one turn and then stops. Engine still running but tractor stops moving. 

[Sarge 3,462]

The way that transmission is built there is very little clearance between the large bull gear and the case of the rear end - either a broken differential case bolt or something else is jamming it . The rear will have to come out and split the case to find the cause - it's not an easy job but not all that bad if you have the drawings and some mechanical skills . Just take care noting where everything goes and how it fits - the rear frame area of the D's is very tight and well packed with the implement drive parts that will fit only one way . I suggest you both spend some time on this forum reading about all the folks that have documented this repair with pictures and detailed explanations of how to work on this part of the big D - it is time well spent before tackling this job .

 

Sarge

[Gregn96cuda 0]

Ok, I just called him and he says that with the tow valve open it still stops after one revolution. 

[pacer 3,159]

OK, I'll try and describe what is likely the problem.

 

Wheel Horse made a design booboo on the differential in the earlier D series, they used grade 5 bolts (to soft/weak, 4 of them) in the diff and if/when one breaks it drops down into the bottom of the case and as the gear rotates around it strikes the broken piece, stopping it. Sometimes (often?) it will bust the differential case/housing and oil will pour out (this happened to me)

 

I see I'm late responding -- as usual

Edited June 1, 2017 by pacer

[Gregn96cuda 0]

My friend being a carpenter, he doesn't like nuts and bolts. He wants me to fix it for him. I'm a plumber but I've been obsessed  with cars since high school 35 years ago. I think we can get it apart and back together with some advice. I tried to search for topics about this problem without any luck. If anyone can direct me to where to look that would really help me out.  Thanks in advance.  

[pfrederi 17,147]

This is not an afternoon in the driveway repair project...but nothing to be afraid of either. There are several of us here who have done this and lots of help here. He will have to rig up some kind of dolly to put under the rear end to get the wheel off the ground so he can move it to where he wants to work on it.  it is important not to force the unit as breaking the tranny case is a real possibility.

 

You may have to download the manula here and print it out for him.  it gives a good sescrpition of what has to be done to get into the transaxle.  Probable the hardest part can be getting the hubs off the axles.  There are thread here about that also

 

 

The culprits are probably the four bolts in the picture.  I replaced mine with Grade 9 bolts and nuts

[Gregn96cuda 0]

Thanks for all of the replys, this a great site with awesome, helpful members. I'll look around and study up a bit before we start taking it apart. 

[Gregn96cuda 0]

Does anyone know what size and length of the bolt that could have broken? I will get 4 grade 8 bolts before I drive to his place. He lives way up in the Santa Cruz mountains south of San Jose, so it takes 40 minutes to get back to his place. 

[pfrederi 17,147]

I am pretty sure they are 3-1/2" 3/8".

 

But I would hold off on getting them.  You are a long way from getting inside to find out if we guessed correctly at your problem.  If we were right at guessing the problem the good news is the repair is cheap parts wise but you have several hours of work just to get it opened up to look at the problem.  if he has a front end loader,or three point hitch, easy ride seat or rear PTO the time involved grows.

I think you will be visiting your friend over several days.  (or maybe I am slow worker)

 

To me just getting her moved to where you want to work removing all the stuff attached to the transaxle getting the hydro manifold off and disconnecting from the frame would be  long days work.  Then you have to pull the hubs which can be very difficult.

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2017 by pfrederi

[pacer 3,159]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Then you have to pull the hubs which can be very difficult.

 

 

I feel I should stress the pulling of the hubs possibly being difficult! These boogers can really be a problem. You would be wise to make up a puller similar to paul f or at least one to pull on all 6 of the bolt holes. A 3 leg/jaw puller is all too prone to break the hub - cast iron is somewhat brittle.

[Gregn96cuda 0]

He told me that he doesn't have a rear pto, but he has a front loader and three point hitch. Are there any specialized tools needed besides the puller for the hubs, and what seals/ gaskets should I bring with me?

Edited June 1, 2017 by Gregn96cuda

[pfrederi 17,147]

How many days are you staying???  The front loader and it sub-frame has to come off and parts of the three point. Does he have the stands to support the FEL when he takes it off??  No real odd ball tools come to mind beyond what ever you may need for the hub puller.

 

You will need New O rings and backer rings for the manifold to hydro motor connection. a copper crush or sealing washer for it also.  Hydro motor to transaxle gasket, transaxle case gasket do NOT use permatex or any forma a gaskets.  just a tiny amount of that getting loose in side the system can cause problems

[pfrederi 17,147]

This is the parts manual for the tractor so you can see the parts involved.  As long as you are in there I would strongly recommend you replace the axle and brake shaft seals.  Also take a close look at the parking brake, many have been used to stop the tractor which grinds them down.

 

 

[Gregn96cuda 0]

My friend told me that he has already removed the front loader because he was going to drop the tractor off at a repair shop. I talked him into fixing it together so he can save some money and learn more about his tractor. He has 3 total, one d180 and two d200. One is a parts tractor so if anyone needs something to replace worn or broken parts, I'm sure he could be talked into shipping parts. He also has a disc for sale as he can't use it on his property. It has four sections of four discs. He's located in Northern California. Thanks again for all of the help with this tractor. 

[R. L. Addison 299]

It is not only the "D" series which this can happen to, I had a '75 1075 had this occurance, and broke the case. When it happened to my C160 I knew what the problem was and repaired it before major damage. The service bulletin was out at that point to redrill holes to 3/8 & put in bigger bolts ( C & D series best I remember ), but it did not say that it had to be drilled with carbide if I remember correctly.