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Duramax7man7

Broken Lift Cable...

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Duramax7man7

Anyone ever have this happen?

 

 I made a rock shaft last night and hooked up a rear plow and made about 8 passes about 20ft long and then headed back to the garage to make a few passes with my tiller and the cable snapped.

 

 I blew out the tube before placing the cable but I didn't grease it up. I also had to only use 2 links and a mini clevis hitch from the rock shaft to the clevis lift bracket... That normal?

Here's the cable..... It seems that it pulled right out of the threaded end. Maybe a bad cable or was it binding inside the tube?

 

20170530_170744.jpg

 

20170530_171056.jpg

 

20170530_171104.jpg

 

20170530_170758.jpg

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Duramax7man7

Going to be making another one but found it odd that it did this. It's literally a brand new cable.

 

 What slot is the chain link supposed to be for the rear plow?

Edited by Mastiffman

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obone

Ouch. That stinks. I do not grease mine. Which part was this toward the rock shaft or towards the lift arm? I thought I also broke mine when plowing a few months back. I was lucky it was only the jam nuts. I had them on the wrong side of the crank and it allowed the crank's threads to skip. Made a big sound and scared me. I would like to see how you make your cable. Looks nice. Good luck.

 

Type_II_Rock_Shaft.jpg

Type_III_Rock_Shaft.jpg

Edited by obone

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Duramax7man7

Thanks. Top exploded parts view is mine. For the 300-500 series tractors and others. Not the B-Series.

The break was at the rockshaft end with the threads for the trunion. The cable pulled right out of the threaded bolt.

 

I picked up some coated 1/8" steel cable from Menards along with some cable clamps and used a mini clevis hitch given to me. I used the mini clevis on the end for the lift arm and then looped the cable through a slip trunion on the rockshaft side.

 

 Problem now is that the belt given to me with the tiller is too short for my 520h... By a good 8"+

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wheelhorseman
On 5/30/2017 at 4:39 PM, Mastiffman said:

Anyone ever have this happen?

 

 I made a rock shaft last night and hooked up a rear plow and made about 8 passes about 20ft long and then headed back to the garage to make a few passes with my tiller and the cable snapped.

 

 I blew out the tube before placing the cable but I didn't grease it up. I also had to only use 2 links and a mini clevis hitch from the rock shaft to the clevis lift bracket... That normal?

Here's the cable..... It seems that it pulled right out of the threaded end. Maybe a bad cable or was it binding inside the tube?

 

20170530_170744.jpg

 

20170530_171056.jpg

 

20170530_171104.jpg

 

20170530_170758.jpg

Definitely a bad cable! This is the (new toro replacement) of the #108144 cable - WOW -- they looked cheaply made online and now this confirms it and notice the unprotected ball end - the cable will eventually start to fray/break by the clevis from wear/ vibration - for comparison here is a picture of the one I make (just like wheel horse did)!!!!!

IMG_2082.JPG

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Duramax7man7

Yeah man that's what I thought. Didn't seem right that it just pulled right out of the bolt...

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Sarge

The roll form die crimp is critical to the strength of those cables , without a properly set up crimper and dies they will fail . If done correctly , the ends should exceed the cable's strength rating . There is a whole new market of wedge type cable ends now available , some of those may work for certain applications requiring a clevis but not sure about the threaded stud type . Lowell's parts will easily meet or exceed the original ratings and his quality is second to none ...

China doesn't have a chance against Lowell , we truly appreciate his efforts here and hope he lasts forever....

 

Sarge

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Duramax7man7

I agree! I will order one from him as soon as I get the extra money after ordering a tiller belt. Just wanted to add that he's a great guy to communicate with as well. 

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Sarge

I figure I have another 20+yrs in this hobby and will of course pass on the Horses to the grandkids . I only hope guys like Lowell are still making wear items...lol . We are fast approaching the ability to resurrect nearly any tractor now through our member vendors - as long as they keep going we're good to go forth and restore/use these things . Of course , over time that will dwindle , but many of us are hoarding reproduction parts and the hobby will live on for many more years to come , which is a good thing .

 

Sarge

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Duramax7man7

I agree. Good idea to buy up the extra parts once they become available. Passing them along to others that are younger and interested in the hobby is a good idea to keep them in circulation as well.

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wheelhorseman

Before you install a new lift cable it would be a wise idea to double check your cable tube for wear. Here is a few pictures of what they look like when there wore and where they can damage the transmission.

IMG_2086.JPG

IMG_2087.JPG

IMG_2088.JPG

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Sarge

That is a very , very good point Lowell - I had almost forgot about that . The old C-160 had worn it's tube badly and I found it by mistake cleaning up some oil underneath while I had it on ramps after changing the hydro oil . That one got replaced with a new tube made from the harder 400 series SS that is used on high pressure gas/fluid systems . The stuff was no fun to flare the end and tore up a Mac flaring tool , but it's done and should last a long time . Very impressed with the quality of your cables , sourcing that spiral conduit isn't easy nor cheap - same with a crimping machine capable of doing those end fittings .

 

Sarge

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R. L. Addison

The coating should be stripped off the cable ends before crimping, if not, it is a recipe for disaster! The coating (plastic) is supposed to protect the tube, and it will stretch and shrink therefore releasing the pressure of the crimp and allow it to slip out.

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Duramax7man7
On 6/15/2017 at 0:58 AM, R. L. Addison said:

The coating should be stripped off the cable ends before crimping, if not, it is a recipe for disaster! The coating (plastic) is supposed to protect the tube, and it will stretch and shrink therefore releasing the pressure of the crimp and allow it to slip out.

 

 

Thanks Lowell for the pro tip!

 RL, I did figure this out at one point as it slipped a few times in a row. Pulled it off and reattached and it's been working well! 

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