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Tgtack

I really need some advice/opinions

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Tgtack

Ok, for those who didn't catch it in one of my other posts, I have MS. This really effects my left side and left foot. You know, the foot use use on the clutch/brake. The WH I use to mow with is an original 857 in pretty nice shape. It is really inconvenient trying to keep my foot from slipping off the stirrup and pedal, and it puts it in an uncomfortable position. So here is the question, I am thinking about converting the 857 into an 877 so I could eliminate the left foot issue (have drop foot, can't lift it, but can push down). Any thoughts about making the swap, would it be wrong to mark it as an 877 when I give it a refresh this fall? I know in some circles, making such a change would be sacrilegious. Would I need anything other than the tranny, seat box, control lever, idler pulley setup, etc.?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

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19richie66

would you be able to somehow put a pedal on the right side and run a spring loaded cable to the idler pulley lever?  just thinking out loud.

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Tgtack

Anything is possible, but already have the PTO lever on the right. 

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Racinbob

I don't think there one think sacrilegious about modifying a tractor to suit your needs, or for that matter, if you just want to do it. I like Richies idea and was thinking if a right side pedal could be tied across to the left side so you'd end up with a pedal on both sides. The biggest obstacle would be the pto pedal on the right. Maybe fabricate a lever to operate the current pedal?

 

I don't see where changing it to an 877 would be a difficult project at all. One of the cool things about these tractors is that so many parts are common to many models. Once you had the hydro in hand you would be able to start taking parts off of the 857 until you reach a point that it's identical to an 877. Then just start putting it back together with the hydro in place of the manual. Tag it an 877?? By all means, if you want to. But it also might be fun to see how often Wheel Horse gurus catch it if you left it tagged an 855 :)

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slammer302

I would do what ever it takes to keep using your horse

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Tgtack
37 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

You ma want to consider a hand clutch.

IMG_6892.JPG.97ed9089d2a122327b952ea2f1ab06aa.JPG

Can you provide any details on that setup? Assume is was for some kind of disability?

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953 nut
42 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

consider a hand clutch.

:twocents-02cents:       These two little girls were able to drive their :wh: even though their legs are too short to reach the clutch. The implement lift lever had been converted to a dead-man clutch / brake for safety of the girls. Spring loaded to the rear de-clutches and applies a bit of breaking pressure, push forward and the clutch engages. In your case the lift lever would stay and a second lever could be connected to the clutch pedal like Ed has.

image.jpeg.dc8d1798edef0a433b37ec1670d0e02e.jpeg

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Tgtack
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

:twocents-02cents:       These two little girls were able to drive their :wh: even though their legs are too short to reach the clutch. The implement lift lever had been converted to a dead-man clutch / brake for safety of the girls. Spring loaded to the rear de-clutches and applies a bit of breaking pressure, push forward and the clutch engages. In your case the lift lever would stay and a second lever could be connected to the clutch pedal like Ed has.

image.jpeg.dc8d1798edef0a433b37ec1670d0e02e.jpeg

Those are awesome!

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, slammer302 said:

I would do what ever it takes to keep using your horse

I'll second that !

6 hours ago, Tgtack said:

Ok, for those who didn't catch it in one of my other posts, I have MS. This really effects my left side and left foot. You know, the foot use use on the clutch/brake. The WH I use to mow with is an original 857 in pretty nice shape. It is really inconvenient trying to keep my foot from slipping off the stirrup and pedal, and it puts it in an uncomfortable position. So here is the question, I am thinking about converting the 857 into an 877 so I could eliminate the left foot issue (have drop foot, can't lift it, but can push down). Any thoughts about making the swap, would it be wrong to mark it as an 877 when I give it a refresh this fall? I know in some circles, making such a change would be sacrilegious. Would I need anything other than the tranny, seat box, control lever, idler pulley setup, etc.?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

 

................ I know in some circles, making such a change would be sacrilegious..............

 

Stay out of those circles and be welcome in Redsquare.

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Ed Kennell
1 hour ago, Tgtack said:

Assume is was for some kind of disability?

No, this was a custom clutch build for my Low Rider.    The pedal is normally used to engage and disengage the clutch, but the hand lever can be pulled if additional pressure is required to tighten the drive belt when drag racing or pulling.

 I just threw the idea out there to give you some other options other than converting your gear drive to an auto.

I do think the hand lever could be added to your existing clutch pedal with the addition of a support pin for the lever and a connecting rod to your existing clutch pedal.

IMG_6700.JPG.b099c607f774083917707178d0749ac2.JPGIMG_6703.JPG.30ab4e4dda727e4e1320f33d3386ade1.JPGIMG_6701.JPG.18aa67402f0c755071ce70715c80bb64.JPGIMG_6894.JPG.54c0972e81e8a843bad03d65b31bf565.JPG

 

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Tgtack
4 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

would you be able to somehow put a pedal on the right side and run a spring loaded cable to the idler pulley lever?  just thinking out loud.

 

Okay, I think I got this.

 

So I am sitting here in my chair pulling apart the Raider 10 that came in my parts lot the other day. So I have it down to the frame, and I am sitting there staring at the pedal and the brake/clutch linkage and the brain goes into analysis mode. One thing God blessed me with, is the ability to see mechanical objects in X, Y, and Z planes in my head. So this is what I came up with, using probably 85% or more WH parts.

 

Using the left side pedal, flip it around and shorten the tube so it fits between the stirrup and the PTO pedal on the right side. Cut off the lever, and rotate it to the bottom and re-attach it. I may have to modify the angle of the pedal some to clear the PTO pedal. Then, either open up the frame hole which is just behind the fan gear location, or weld in a new tube across the frame just below. Use a drive belt tension pulley lever/rod cut down to the correct lever length pointing down on the right side, inserting the rod through the new tube. Take a long brake/clutch accuating rod and cut it down to fit between the pedal lever and the new transfer lever/rod. Then using another short cast lever that the brake lining accuating rod attaches to, attach it pointing up on the left side. Then using the remainder of the actuating rod previously shortened, attach a rod between the new left side transfer lever and the existing brake/clutch lever. 

 

So, when you would depress the right pedal, the lever being under the pedal, it would transfer the motion rearward. This would rotate the new traverse rod and corresponding rotation to the left side. With the lever on top of the transfer rod on the left side, the rotation is forward so it pulls on the left side brake/clutch rod and functions as originally designed!

 

I will draw up a sketch when I get time, but this should do the trick and look all original to boot!

Edited by Tgtack
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Ed Kennell

:confusion-confused:    Ya lost me, I'll wait for the sketch.

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wallfish
37 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:
2 hours ago, Tgtack said:

Assume is was for some kind of disability?

No, this was a custom clutch build for my Low Rider.

Hold on a minute! Couldn't it be both? I've read a bunch of your posts Ed:ychain:

Sorry, Just couldn't resist even though I promised another member I'd try to refrain from any more jokes.

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Ed Kennell

OK,  I'll mark that one up for you John.      I admit, I have lost a few gray matter cells inhaling CO , but I never forget to pay my dues....and I owe you one.   B)

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953 nut
35 minutes ago, Tgtack said:

Using the left side pedal, flip it around and shorten the tube so it fits between the stirrup and the PTO pedal on the right side. Cut off the lever, and rotate it to the bottom and re-attach it. I may have to modify the angle of the pedal some to clear the PTO pedal.

May be better to make a new brake / clutch peddle, but the concept you have come up with would work well.   :wwp:

13 minutes ago, wallfish said:

try to refrain from any more jokes.

Please don't!......., The levity on this site is at least half the value of coming here.

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wallfish
1 hour ago, Tgtack said:

 

Okay, I think I got this.

 

So I am sitting here in my chair pulling apart the Raider 10 that came in my parts lot the other day. So I have it down to the frame, and I am sitting there staring at the pedal and the brake/clutch linkage and the brain goes into analysis mode. One thing God blessed me with, is the ability to see mechanical objects in X, Y, and Z planes in my head. So this is what I came up with, using probably 85% or more WH parts.

 

Using the left side pedal, flip it around and shorten the tube so it fits between the stirrup and the PTO pedal on the right side. Cut off the lever, and rotate it to the bottom and re-attach it. I may have to modify the angle of the pedal some to clear the PTO pedal. Then, either open up the frame hole which is just behind the fan gear location, or weld in a new tube across the frame just below. Use a drive belt tension pulley lever/rod cut down to the correct lever length pointing down on the right side, inserting the rod through the new tube. Take a long brake/clutch accuating rod and cut it down to fit between the pedal lever and the new transfer lever/rod. Then using another short cast lever that the brake lining accuating rod attaches to, attach it pointing up on the left side. Then using the remainder of the actuating rod previously shortened, attach a rod between the new left side transfer lever and the existing brake/clutch lever. 

 

So, when you would depress the right pedal, the lever being under the pedal, it would transfer the motion rearward. This would rotate the new traverse rod and corresponding rotation to the left side. With the lever on top of the transfer rod on the left side, the rotation is forward so it pulls on the left side brake/clutch rod and functions as originally designed!

 

I will draw up a sketch when I get time, but this should do the trick and look all original to boot!

I had to read it twice but get what you're saying now. Basically transferring motion from a new right side modified pedal ( changing pull of a rod to a push on the rod) to a new lever system in order to cross sides of the frame, which then connects to the arm in which the original pedal connects to now. That should work!

 

I'll be keeping an eye out at the show ED, when I least expect it, expect it! I guess you do owe me one for that.

Edited by wallfish
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Tgtack

Anyone know if the pedal is cast or forged? Makes a difference welding on it.

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953 nut

It is cast, that is why I feel making a new one is best.

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Tgtack
6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

It is cast, that is why I feel making a new one is best.

I am going to take it to a friend of mine who is a fabricator and welds all types of metal and see what he thinks.  Hope to use the factory part.

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953 nut

FYI,  later models like the B and C series and the 300 and 400  series had a separate brake pedal on the right side.

s-l1600.jpg

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Uncle Buck
21 hours ago, slammer302 said:

I would do what ever it takes to keep using your horse

I agree with this!

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Ed Kennell
14 hours ago, Tgtack said:

I am going to take it to a friend of mine who is a fabricator and welds all types of metal and see what he thinks.  Hope to use the factory part.

I have bolted extensions to the existing lug on the cast pedals.  Sure you could make a crescent  shaped  extension to reverse the direction.

IMG_5825.JPG.29507d0e576c1809d36808c1d33a7a71.JPG

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RedRanger

Why not just trade the 857 for a hydro?  875? 876? 877? 1077? 1276? 1277? Charger?

If no trade available, sell yours and buy a hydro???

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Tgtack
25 minutes ago, RedRanger said:

Why not just trade the 857 for a hydro?  875? 876? 877? 1077? 1276? 1277? Charger?

If no trade available, sell yours and buy a hydro???

 

I guess because it's mine and I really like it. Plus I like working on stuff. I do have a 1276, but that is not going to be a work tractor. I am pretty sure I can set up a right side pedal.

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