Mike574 3 #1 Posted May 17, 2017 Hey guys, been studying wiring diagrams to fight this problem I'm having. My father passed away and I'm trying to keep his two wheelhorses running strong, but this is my first experience working on them. It's a C-160 automatic. When it's cold, it starts just fine, then shuts down after about 10 or 15 minutes, no spark. I've swapped the coil, condenser, plug, and point. Still no go, so I got out a test light and started poking around. I'm getting no voltage at the coil post. I can jump a wire from the battery to the post and all is good. So do I have a stator problem or a regulator problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,536 #2 Posted May 17, 2017 The first step in any electrical problem is to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. 7 minutes ago, Mike574 said: So do I have a stator problem or a regulator problem? The charging system only charges the battery, they are not causing this. Chances are there is a connection that is coming loose and dropping the voltage to the coil. Not sure if your model has safety switches on the seat and PTO, but they could have a bad connection or one of them could be going bad. If you have the safety switches they should only be in play with the PTO on. Look around and see if any of the connections have a bad terminal also. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488 #3 Posted May 17, 2017 Ignition power goes from the ignition switch to 1/2 of the pto switch. This is what powers the ignition when the pto is OFF. With the pto ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits. What year and model number? The early models are different. It may be an ignition switch failure. It is the I (eye) terminal that supplies the ignition circuit. Garry 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,450 #4 Posted May 17, 2017 Thats what I was thinking Garry, ignition switch could be the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike574 3 #5 Posted May 17, 2017 14 hours ago, 953 nut said: The first step in any electrical problem is to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. The charging system only charges the battery, they are not causing this. Chances are there is a connection that is coming loose and dropping the voltage to the coil. Not sure if your model has safety switches on the seat and PTO, but they could have a bad connection or one of them could be going bad. If you have the safety switches they should only be in play with the PTO on. Look around and see if any of the connections have a bad terminal also. K, will check/clean all connections that I can. The safety switches were all bypassed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike574 3 #6 Posted May 17, 2017 14 hours ago, gwest_ca said: Ignition power goes from the ignition switch to 1/2 of the pto switch. This is what powers the ignition when the pto is OFF. With the pto ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits. What year and model number? The early models are different. It may be an ignition switch failure. It is the I (eye) terminal that supplies the ignition circuit. Garry Sorry, didn't know what a PTO was, and I'm not quite sure what year, I will see if I can find it next time I'm over there. The PTO is the shaft coming out of the engine to drive accessories? In my case, the clutch for the mower deck? I see no switch there, must have been eliminated as well. With this information from you guys, my next step should be checking the terminals on the ignition switch I'd guess. So it should be as simple as battery voltage to the "B" post, and when the switch is turned on, it provides continuity to the "I" post, which goes straight to the coil in my case, since I have no switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488 #7 Posted May 17, 2017 You have it figured out. You need power at the "I" terminal in the RUN and START positions. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,536 #8 Posted May 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Mike574 said: The PTO is the shaft coming out of the engine to drive accessories? That is correct, if the PTO safety switch is connected it would be where the lever to actuate the PTO is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike574 3 #9 Posted May 19, 2017 Got it! The ammeter had shorted. I found a melted connector plugged in, cleaned it up and still no go. I bypassed the gauge and everything now works. Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,536 #10 Posted May 19, 2017 55 minutes ago, Mike574 said: everything now works. Glad you found the problem and got it going. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Friedrichsen 111 #11 Posted May 24, 2017 I have a Commando 800 (no safety switches) that after 35 years of weekly use quit cold. The problem was the copper coil wire, after all those years of vibration, work hardened and broke inside of the insulation. The failure was not noticeable to the eye but my ohmmeter picked up the lack of continuity. Replaced the wire and it runs well today Eric Share this post Link to post Share on other sites