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I've used those same ends and soldered, comes out really nice. In my case I couldn't find red 4g at the time so I used red heat shrink to cover the solder joint and to identify positive

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Great idea, thanks for sharing.      :thumbs2:

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Did this years ago, but thought people would think I was just being tight. Also repaired an old pair of jumper cables by putting both cut ends in a short piece of copper tubing and soldering....

Edited by roadapples
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Gotta say I didn't even think of using pipe that way. Kind of want to try it. Heard mixed reviews about soldering versus crimping when pulling a lot of current through the cable heating up and coming loose.

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Current draw that is normal probably won't be a factor. Excessive current WILL melt the solder.  I would do the following.  I would put a depression dimple on both sides to secure the wire. I would then silver solder the wire to the connector.  The key word is silver solder not regular solder. If you have some refrigeration silver solder that will work the best. be prepared to loose any insulation on the wire and finish with heat shrink tubing.

 

You could cheat and use the top piece of the double flaring tool to put a depression on the connector. Do this 180 apart  You will have to put a piece of steel across the tool so the connector won't go thru the opening and then spin the flaring portion until you get  a nice depression. Do this with the cable inside the connector and then silver solder when you've done both sides.

double flare tool.jpg

Edited by 6bg6ga
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51 minutes ago, 6bg6ga said:

 

You could cheat and use the top piece of the double flaring tool to put a depression on the connector.

 

 

Or give it a gentle whack with a hammer and that dull cold-chisel every one of us has in their toolbox . :roll:

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I buy two or three batteries per summer from my local Battery Warehouse. If I take them a cable, he will put two new ends on, and heat-shrink them for $1.00 per cable. He will make me any length 4 gauge (red or black) cable up to 24" for $5.00.

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