Greg Shearer 7 #1 Posted May 10, 2017 New points is all I changed starts fine idles like its partly choked Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,407 #2 Posted May 10, 2017 Are we to presume that the engine ran fine prior to the new points being installed. The timing on Kohler engines is set by the points gap. Try adjusting the points to .018 or .016 and see if this helps. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,637 #3 Posted May 10, 2017 in case I havn't already welcomed you to RS but we could use a little more here to go on. What else has been done to this motor.. carb cleaning or anything? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg Shearer 7 #4 Posted May 10, 2017 I've done nothing to it but points ran perfect before Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,407 #5 Posted May 10, 2017 That being the case it should run even better when the timing is corrected. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,455 #6 Posted May 10, 2017 Recheck the points gap first as @953 nut suggested. Idles good but won't rev up kinda sounds like the symptoms of a bad condenser. This might be the next thing to check if resetting the points gap does not help. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 887 #7 Posted May 10, 2017 point gap has to be within 18 to 20 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,407 #8 Posted May 10, 2017 If you think the condenser is the problem just unhook it. Points will work fine without it for a short test run. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #9 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) Basically the function of a condenser in a coil ignition circuit is to reduce the spark at the contact points as they open and thus minimise burning and pitting of the points. Arcing is caused by the effect of self induction in the coil as the points interrupt the flow of current. I'm going to go against taking the points out. Even running it without the points for a short time can cause arching, burning, and or pitting. Borrow a meter put it on a mid to high resistance scale. Attach to the condenser and watch as it charges and then goes back to normal, reverse the leads and do the same. If and I repeat the word if the condenser is bad you will see one of the two conditions. Either the meter won't move at all or the meter will show a resistance all the time. The all out best test would be to use a cap checker. Yes, I do also recall reading that you cannot check a AC condenser but guess what? You can. An AC rated capacitor/condenser can be used in DC circuits and can be tested with the simple cap test function on a lot of meters. The best meter to use if you don't have a newer meter with the cap test feature is a simple old analog like a Simpson 260. Do as directed. With a clean set of feeler gauges check the point gap and adjust for a slight very slight drag as you pull them thru. Once they are set and tightened take a piece of clean white newspaper and run that thru the points until it comes out clean and free of any dirt or oil. If your points were burned I would take a piece of clean 400 grit sandpaper and run thru them to obtain a good surface again and repeat the newspaper until it comes out clean. Re gap and go from there. It is important to test the original condenser and if good it wouldn't bother me to use it again. Sometimes putting a new untested condenser in is far worse. At any rate test. Point gap nominal is .020 Edited May 10, 2017 by 6bg6ga Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #10 Posted May 10, 2017 http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/ens_593_f_all.pdf Page 15 or 16 I believe lists gaps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
