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Molon_Labe

Very nice!:text-coolphotos:

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Morecowbell

Looks great!  What colors did you use?

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953 nut

:text-coolphotos:            Like the stretched frame.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  That would make it a knee roaster rather than a nut roaster!   :ychain:

How long has it been in the family?

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wallfish

Nice job, looks better with the gas tank moved to the hood and not attached with that Briggs engine. Hot Rod 401

 Just be sure to work out the belt if it's grinding gears. If the belt is still spinning when you use the clutch/brake, it will grind the gears. there are a couple of ways to stop it like adding 1/4" rod bent into "fingers" to support the belt or making a custom fit belt guard to support the belt and/or a belt brake added to the idler pulley

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Achto

Nice work! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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CLG253
7 hours ago, Morecowbell said:

Looks great!  What colors did you use?

Thanks. Magic brand fom Tractor Supply I.H. Red and I.H white. I am very pleased with the paint.

6 hours ago, 953 nut said:

:text-coolphotos:            Like the stretched frame.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  That would make it a knee roaster rather than a nut roaster!   :ychain:

How long has it been in the family?

I am not really sure. I believe it was bought used as a basket case in the late 60s or early 70s.

4 hours ago, wallfish said:

Nice job, looks better with the gas tank moved to the hood and not attached with that Briggs engine. Hot Rod 401

 Just be sure to work out the belt if it's grinding gears. If the belt is still spinning when you use the clutch/brake, it will grind the gears. there are a couple of ways to stop it like adding 1/4" rod bent into "fingers" to support the belt or making a custom fit belt guard to support the belt and/or a belt brake added to the idler pulley

Thanks. It is grinding gears. I was hoping it would get better once the belt got broke in. I just start it in gear to take it for a ride. lol. Could you give me some more info and/or maybe a pic on my options to stop the belt. Thanks.

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CLG253

I do have one question. The gear shifter seems to favor the right side. Even when its not running and is in nuetral you can still hear it rubbing a little inside when you push it. 

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953 nut
10 minutes ago, CLG253 said:

options to stop the belt.

You will probably want to run a piece of angel iron under the lower belt and put a "belt brake" that will grab the belt when you push the clutch down. The one in this picture is positioned too far back, you will need to play with it a bit. It is held on with the same bolt that the idler is on.

ideler.JPG.b6ed24a1525cc856266e0393e0a80ab5.JPG

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CLG253
2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You will probably want to run a piece of angel iron under the lower belt and put a "belt brake" that will grab the belt when you push the clutch down. The one in this picture is positioned too far back, you will need to play with it a bit. It is held on with the same bolt that the idler is on.

ideler.JPG.b6ed24a1525cc856266e0393e0a80ab5.JPG

Ok. That looks simple enough. Thanks for the help.

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wallfish
22 minutes ago, CLG253 said:

Thanks. It is grinding gears. I was hoping it would get better once the belt got broke in. I just start it in gear to take it for a ride. lol. Could you give me some more info and/or maybe a pic on my options to stop the belt. Thanks.

The belt on there may be too short to allow enough slack for disengaging it from the engine pulley. A longer belt and adjustment to the position of the idler pulley may help. Notice the shape of the belt in 953's pic.

The belt needs to be supported around the engine pulley because the weight of the belt lets the V drop into the pulley's groove. 2 small rods, top and bottom of the engine pulley should do it. They're usually positioned about 11:00 and 7:00 o'clock and support the belt about 1/8-1/4" away from the belt when it's engaged into the pulley. That way they don't rub while driving but rub when the pedal is pushed down. Sometimes only the 7:00 spot will support the belt enough to work.

Bend 1/4" rod 90 deg and then a hook in one end for bolting it to the engine in the threaded holes surrounding the pulley.

The belt brake on the idler pulley as pictured should not touch the belt at all while engaged but as the idler moves forward and down, it should rub the belt to help stop it.

Use the search feature at the top right corner and type in "grinding gears". You'll find quite a few threads concerning this exact issue with plenty of advise to help.

The belt MUST stop spinning completely when the pedal is pushed to stop grinding of the gears.

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CLG253
42 minutes ago, wallfish said:

The belt on there may be too short to allow enough slack for disengaging it from the engine pulley. A longer belt and adjustment to the position of the idler pulley may help. Notice the shape of the belt in 953's pic.

The belt needs to be supported around the engine pulley because the weight of the belt lets the V drop into the pulley's groove. 2 small rods, top and bottom of the engine pulley should do it. They're usually positioned about 11:00 and 7:00 o'clock and support the belt about 1/8-1/4" away from the belt when it's engaged into the pulley. That way they don't rub while driving but rub when the pedal is pushed down. Sometimes only the 7:00 spot will support the belt enough to work.

Bend 1/4" rod 90 deg and then a hook in one end for bolting it to the engine in the threaded holes surrounding the pulley.

The belt brake on the idler pulley as pictured should not touch the belt at all while engaged but as the idler moves forward and down, it should rub the belt to help stop it.

Use the search feature at the top right corner and type in "grinding gears". You'll find quite a few threads concerning this exact issue with plenty of advise to help.

The belt MUST stop spinning completely when the pedal is pushed to stop grinding of the gears.

Thanks for the help.

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Uncle Buck

Really dig the stretched frame, looks very nice for sure!

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