Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
By Bowdoinham Dan
I have a Raider 10 with a K241 engine that won't turn over. It's totally dead. Headlights won't even turn on. I've got a brand new battery and new battery terminal wires, but the small wiring is old and this might be the problem: a disconnection somewhere. So I'm gonna rewire some parts with new wire.
Does anyone know the correct wire gauge to buy? I can't find it listed in the manual.
Greetings all, first post to this forum.
I am in the process of getting my father's 1971 Bronco 14 (1 0421 6) up and running. After pulling the hydrogear for reworking, I noticed some lash between the rear wheels when on jackstands. I found one of the hubs to be badly worn, but also noticed there seems to be a clicking or ratcheting when turning one side at a time (whether the parking brake is on or off). The opposite wheel does turn in the opposite direction - it just does so with a click / ratchet feel. I was expecting something smoother like with an automobile differential. Is this normal? Should I plan to split the case, and if so what should I be looking for?
Thanks in advance for any information!
Followed up the Trailblazer 7 purchase with another good CL find. This one is a REALLY good one. Picked up a 68' Raider 12 That came with wheel weights, chains, 48" deck in insanely good condition, and a dump cart with hydraulics! I'm not sure if the cart is an actual Wheel horse, it could be but the tires aren't right. Obviously the hydraulics aren't original. Either way, I paid the equivalent of buying the cart and wheel weights at Fair market value. I couldn't believe it made it past 24 hours. Nice to know I don't have much competition in the area!
Couple of questions on the setup of this beast. My buddy thinks it was a pulling tractor. It has the rear wheel hub extensions (which I don't mind at all. Looks slick if you ask me), it also has a modified throttle body which works fantastic and is a thousand times better than the twist-lock cable, it had a homemade steering tensioner at the base of the steering wheel made from a spring and half a coffee can lid to protect the paint, and the footboards have extensions off the front sides. The fella I bought it from got the tractor from his uncle who I'm guessing passed away because he didn't have much info on the tractor at all. He wasn't sure why things were setup like they were. Certainly explains why the deck is pretty much mint. I swear those blades are original. Overall, the thing runs like a top and purs like a kitten with the modified muffler.
Will the 48" deck mount up on my attachomatic setup on my 69' Raider? That's the other thing, take a look at this rear. There are no latches.
Thanks in advance for any info!
I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10. I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh.
Here's the starting point picture.
It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy. Nothing is rusted through, thankfully. It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was. We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected.
Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it and will e-tank the crap out of everything.