3Horses 10 #1 Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) Can anybody help please. I ordered a new ignition assembly switch Toro part # 103991.??? Is this the correct switch for my 1986 417-A machine. Desperately looking for some guidance. I forgot to say that it is a 5 prong with ground switch. But one of the prongs is stamped with the letter M on it.???? The new switch has these markings on the prongs.?? A,M,R,B,S, and a Ground Edited April 26, 2017 by 3Horses addendum Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,475 #2 Posted April 26, 2017 103991 is the wrong switch. A quick look at the wiring diagram shows the (+) and (-) terminals on the battery ignition coil and there is no isolation relay. Here is a very poor parts list because it shows two ignition switches but fails to show which models use which switch. The correct switch is Compare this file to the old switch to verify. I do make mistakes. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3Horses 10 #3 Posted April 26, 2017 Thank you very much. I was wondering if I had the wrong one. You guys have been great. Thank you, thank you. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WildHorses 378 #4 Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) I have a 417-A I picked up a few months back that had been "redneck engineered", they said it wouldn't run but it would turn over and they couldn't figure it out plus had health problems. I verified their claim when I got it home and they were right. They had spliced the wiring harness and bypassed every safety switch on the tractor. To get to the bottom of the problem I pulled out all of their handy work and started patching the original harness. Long story short they had the wrong ignition switch so I got on parts tree for a generic 417-A model since my sticker is no longer visible (they showed 103991 as correct) and I ordered that part from ebay. It didn't work, tractor won't even turn over. I just happened across this post and verified the wiring matches the wiring diagram on these pictures and SOB if I don't have the wrong switch. I'm ordering the correct one now so fingers crossed everything else is ok. I already found a defective clutch pedal safety switch, thankfully I had one on a parts tractor. Edited May 8, 2017 by WildHorses Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #5 Posted May 8, 2017 Its either "Redneck" or the backyard mechanic that is responsible for your trouble. Unfortunately some cannot grasp the use of a volt ohm meter. Some that actually own a meter don't have a clue as to how to use it. One of the first rules one should learn for troubleshooting. Never depend on the boxed part one has purchased before testing it with your meter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WildHorses 378 #6 Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) 17 hours ago, 6bg6ga said: Its either "Redneck" or the backyard mechanic that is responsible for your trouble. Unfortunately some cannot grasp the use of a volt ohm meter. Some that actually own a meter don't have a clue as to how to use it. One of the first rules one should learn for troubleshooting. Never depend on the boxed part one has purchased before testing it with your meter. I had checked everything prior to putting it in so an incorrect or defective switch was my first guess. I pulled up the wiring diagram and checked the switch, no continuity from the battery to start terminals. 😩 I was just annoyed that it was the wrong switch. Edited May 9, 2017 by WildHorses 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #7 Posted May 9, 2017 7 hours ago, WildHorses said: I had checked everything prior to putting it in so an incorrect or defective switch was my first guess. I pulled up the wiring diagram and checked the switch, no continuity from the battery to start terminals. 😩 I was just annoyed that it was the wrong switch. Good to hear that you checked it prior to trying to install it. The mark of an experienced troubleshooter that didn't assume but instead tested. Good catch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
