Sarge 3,462 #27 Posted April 21, 2018 Nice score - that's something that will last far longer than that lawn mower and frankly is more useful. Take some time to get to know the guts of the machine first and address any wear items now - once you have it in service it's harder to put it down for a time to do any work on a machine. I missed a later model Logan awhile back that was a little larger than my Enco - still mad about it too as it was it very good condition with little to no wear, ugh. Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #28 Posted April 21, 2018 Logans like yours are/were are in the "home shop" (South Bend, Atlas, Sears, Clausing, etc) category and are a bit on the 'light duty' side --- but even so its amazing how much 'light duty' parts you can turn out with it - bushings, clevis, threaded rods, etc, etc. I sometime think back over a project/rebuild and remind myself of just how many items I was able to whip on the lathe out in minutes that would have taken many hours/days to run down - and pay for! I seriously doubt I would stay in this hobby otherwise. As for rust --- for some years I would scrounge up metal lathes (and other shop machinery) that had been neglected with rust usually being quite bad. I never had a machine that I couldnt get the rust removed and come out with a nice tool. That wouldnt apply to all the other problems of worn broken parts!!! Rust will take some elbow grease - sometimes a LOT! - but from the looks of yours should be a breeze to clean up. My personal lathe is a 12x13 South Bend that went through Katrina!! Talk about rust!! I have now been using it for some 6 years and while the bed is visibly pitted it is a remarkably accurate and functional tool. And I agree, that box of "stuff" is a treasure!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #29 Posted April 21, 2018 I have a question about the support for this lathe. I am thinking about making the legs out of 3x3x3/16 tubing and weld an 8x8x1/2 plate on top of the legs at each end to mount the lathe to. Each end will be 8" at the top and 18" at the bottom with cross supports about half way between top and bottom. Basically the same as the cast legs would be. Does anyone see why this would not work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 16,824 #30 Posted April 21, 2018 I cant see anything but it sounds good. 👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #31 Posted April 21, 2018 I can see it plain as day in my mind. lol Maybe I need to draw a picture? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,617 #32 Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) Can you give us some overall dimensions for the lathe and its estimated weight.I got a old Logan lathe years ago that had been stripped of all useable parts except the catch pan and legs.The legs for each end were way heavy cast iron.If you use 2 3x3tubes for each end you should be fine with what you propose.A single tube at each end would be a little iffy.If the belt drive is at the back or top of the lathe then it could be tied down to a work bench top.If the drive is of low mount a table top could still be used.Luck,JAinVA Edited April 21, 2018 by JAinVA 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #33 Posted April 22, 2018 The overall length is about 36". It is 28" center to center to mounting plates. I'm guessing maybe 300 lbs. Total weight. I was thinking 2 3x3 tubes at each end like an A frame. Then a frame between the two ends so a shelf can be utilized under the lathe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,617 #34 Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) Just my opinion but that should work.A catch pan should be under the ways as well.At around 300 lbs you should be able to figure how much spread needs to be at the legs for stability. If you decide to put this assembly on casters count on it to rock some.My 10" Southbend was rock solid until it got wheels.Not bad but different.There is no doubt your lathe falls into the light range but I saw an early 10" Southbend making parts in a commercial setting working day in and day out.It would not have been there unless it worked and made money.I got your PM and if you need some help just ask.This may be off subject here. Edited April 22, 2018 by JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #35 Posted April 22, 2018 Thanks. I am confident the legs will support the weight just wasn't sure about the operation of the lathe. I will have questions about some parts that came with it. I'm sure they are for doing things that I don't know about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #36 Posted April 22, 2018 The parts in question. 1. 2. 3. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,617 #37 Posted April 22, 2018 With out holding each part the first picture is some type of boring bar holder.The second and third picture is a tool holder.The large hole clamps the holder to the lathe compound and the tools are held in place by the set screws.The last picture is a boring bar mount.There seems to be a cutting tool at the small end.The large hole in the main block allows the mount to be secured to the compound.If these terms seem to be Greek then you may have some idea of what you are embarking on.I unfortunately didn't get to acknowledge WVhillbillys warnings.Jeff is spot on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #38 Posted July 3, 2018 I have not tried to actually use it yet but it is finished. I have been buying a few odds and ends as the cleaning progressed. After cleaning it up I decided I liked the paint just the way it was so I just sprayed it with clear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #39 Posted October 2, 2019 (edited) It's been a while so I thought I would give a little update. I have been working on my shop so I will have more room to work on tractors. After using the lathe for a while and trying to get it like I wanted, I recently made the final modifications on the lathe. I built a work table cart, grinder cart and a vertical band saw stand attached to my vise stand. Now I have the tools in order I have a little more work to do on the shop and I can get back to work on tractors. Jay Edited October 2, 2019 by JPWH 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,399 #40 Posted October 2, 2019 (edited) Nice window. for the time being and very clean and still in one piece. Machinists always use a tool box made of wood with felt lined drawers, wood prevents the tools from sweating. Is that a cam lock or threaded chuck. Edited October 2, 2019 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #41 Posted October 2, 2019 Plexiglass protects the window. Threaded chuck. I also have a wooden box. Just not big enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,404 #42 Posted October 2, 2019 Nice Hank....really like that mobile welding table! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,399 #43 Posted October 3, 2019 (edited) With a tool post grinder your only limited to your imagination, resize a connecting rod, grind engine valves or even a crankshaft, resurface a worn hydraulic pump etc. etc. These often show up on ebay. Edited October 3, 2019 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #44 Posted October 3, 2019 Thanks for the video. I will look into the tool post grinder more. Looks like it would be a worthwhile addition. Jay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,399 #45 Posted October 3, 2019 2 hours ago, JPWH said: Plexiglass protects the window. Threaded chuck. I also have a wooden box. Just not big enough. Operating the lathe in reverse what keeps the chuck on the spindle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #46 Posted October 3, 2019 I have not had to run it In reverse and i don't plan to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,399 #47 Posted October 3, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, JPWH said: I have not had to run it In reverse and i don't plan to. Sooner or later you'll be doing some threading, often it is difficult to engage the half nut on the correct index dial and its easier to reverse the lathe keeping the bit indexed for the next cut on that precious thread you've spent hours choosing and setting up the change gears. Your lathe appears to be equipped with a drum switch and the way it's set up caught my eye, I would have wired it so that forward brought the handle of the switch towards me, which is the norm for a right handed person. Being opposite to the norm should someone not accustomed to your lathe accidentally reverse it during start up could uncouple the chuck from the spindle. The compound slide needs to be set up properly as it is now it looks like an accident looking to happen. Edited October 3, 2019 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,399 #48 Posted October 3, 2019 There are plenty of YT videos showing how to make an indexing plate for the metal lathe, but choose one that also showed the use of one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,288 #49 Posted October 3, 2019 Thanks for the video. Another idea to look into. As for the drunm switch that was how it was when I got it. Good eye on the compound. I had just finished making a rope guide for a little tigger at work that was originally plastic. Jay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites