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CurtS

Fixing a 90's Wheel Horse Tractor

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953 nut
1 hour ago, CurtS said:

Out of picture space on this post.  I'll start another one in accessories category.

Storage space is an expense to the site so members are limited on the amount of photos that can be posted unless they become a supporter.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/category/1-redsquare-support/

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CurtS

My latest project has been taking the front wheels off to get new front tires.  My most important question is what to grease when I put the wheels back on.  The only zerk fitting I see is on the inside of the wheel.  I greased this until grease came out of inside part of the axel.  Concerned though that I need to do more to cover the other side (outside) of the axel and wheel bearings.  When I took the wheels off the cotter pin, washer, and outside of the axel was completely covered in grease.  Not sure how to grease this side.  Do I put grease on the axel itself when the wheel is off?

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CurtS

Here she is waiting for the new tires.

IMG_20170604_204235003.jpg

I got the bagger working last week and rigged up a new cable to hold the chute to the mower deck.

IMG_20170529_145700753.jpg

IMG_20170529_145630766_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170529_145645516_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170529_145616431_HDR.jpg

I could use another one of these plastic hub caps.  Dealer said it's part number 109154 and is discontinued.  Anyone know where I can buy one?

IMG_20170604_204222877.jpg

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stratostar250

Send a message to Glenn, he makes them, He'll be able to give you a hand!

 

 

 

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CurtS

Thank you!

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Tankman
On ‎4‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 4:09 PM, 6bg6ga said:

i'll trade you for a 30" running craftsman riding mower. :) with new battery, belts, and variable pulley.

 

I'll throw in some audio gear too or maybe something else depending on you hobbies.

Bluetooth headphones and a new iPad loaded with Pandora advertisements free? :ROTF:

Better keep that Horse, looks to be in great condition. Good luck and do update your progress.

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CurtS
13 hours ago, CurtS said:

My latest project has been taking the front wheels off to get new front tires.  My most important question is what to grease when I put the wheels back on.  The only zerk fitting I see is on the inside of the wheel.  I greased this until grease came out of inside part of the axel.  Concerned though that I need to do more to cover the other side (outside) of the axel and wheel bearings.  When I took the wheels off the cotter pin, washer, and outside of the axel was completely covered in grease.  Not sure how to grease this side.  Do I put grease on the axel itself when the wheel is off?

What is the best way to grease a 308-8 front wheels, bearings, and axle?

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6bg6ga
8 hours ago, Tankman said:

Bluetooth headphones and a new iPad loaded with Pandora advertisements free? :ROTF:

Better keep that Horse, looks to be in great condition. Good luck and do update your progress.

 

Dude!  Lighten up it was a joke.  Besides I'm a tube fanatic and don't believe in digital audio. Bluetooth and IPad being considered to be of any quality?  Don't make me laugh.:happy-jumpeveryone:

 

Besides..... some of my tube gear is worth a few Wheel Horse tractors quite a few.

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CurtS
On 6/8/2017 at 10:46 AM, CurtS said:

What is the best way to grease a 308-8 front wheels, bearings, and axle?

Anyone have experience greasing the front wheels on a 308-8 or something similar?  I'll try a separate post on this too.

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Racinbob

The one zerk takes care of both sides. :)

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CurtS
1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

The one zerk takes care of both sides. :)

Will the grease squirt out of the outside of the wheel too?  Right now when I grease the zerk it's squirting out of the inside only.  I stopped once grease started coming out of the inside of the wheel.  I figured that it didn't need anymore, but maybe the grease never reached the outside of the wheel.  Really, I'm not sure?  First time I've done this.

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Racinbob

If you have a cap on the outside you may not see it come out but in any case it's going to take the path of least resistance once the cavity is full. I've had it come out the inside, the outside and both and it's never been consistent. As long as you grease them regularly you'll be fine. I'm sorta in the middle of a test right now. On a non-worker I've always used sealed bearings so I didn't mess things up with grease. Last summer I got a great price on quality sealed bearings in bulk. My main mowing tractor needed them so I cleaned the cavity out and used them it that one. I'll see how long they last. I just got my 1976 "B-160" I purchased new back and I'm going to put them in that too. I only had a half acre in Florida but now I mow something over 2 acres so it will really be a test. :)

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CurtS

Hello again everyone!  I took my 1985 308-8 out of the garage today and discovered that my right rear axle had been leaking fluid over the winter.  I checked the dip stick and it was between F and L.

 

I called the dealer who serviced it last year.  I explained that the fluid I saw on the ground didn't look like regular oil.  I was a light brown with a yellow/green tint.  They checked the records and said when they serviced it they used Lucas 80W-90.  The mechanic at the dealer said it was better to use the heavier Lucas 80W-90 instead of SAE 20 or 10w-30 or 10w-40 as described in the manual.  I'm assuming I have the 312A trans (SAE 20) with my model and not the 417A or 420-LSE, but I'm not sure.  I do have a set of low/high gears 1-3 and reverse.  I think this is considered 8 speeds.

 

Today's plan was to fill it up and run it for a while to see if the seals in the axle would seal back up in case they dried out over winter.  So I topped it off with the Lucas 80W-90 and ran it for about 15 minutes.  It's still leaking, but the leak is a slow leak.

 

I was thinking about draining out all the transaxle oil tomorrow and replacing it with the Lucas 80W-90 and testing again.  The thing is that I'm not really sure what was put in last year.  The Lucas oil I put in didn't seem to mix completely with what was already there.  At least it appears that way on the dipstick.  I'm a little skeptical about using 80W-90 when the manual specifies something much lighter, but I'm trying it per the dealer's mechanic service record and recommendation.

 

Another dealer I talked to said the only way to fix the seals is to take apart the entire axle and basically rebuild for about $600.  I don't want to go this route unless I have to, but I don't want to damage any gears in the process of testing it and trying to get it to seal either.

 

I'm looking for help and advice on how to proceed with this.  Also, wondering if anyone can recommend a good Wheel Horse mechanic in the Chicago area.

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608KEB
51 minutes ago, CurtS said:

Hello again everyone!  I took my 1985 308-8 out of the garage today and discovered that my right rear axle had been leaking fluid over the winter.  I checked the dip stick and it was between F and L.

 

I called the dealer who serviced it last year.  I explained that the fluid I saw on the ground didn't look like regular oil.  I was a light brown with a yellow/green tint.  They checked the records and said when they serviced it they used Lucas 80W-90.  The mechanic at the dealer said it was better to use the heavier Lucas 80W-90 instead of SAE 20 or 10w-30 or 10w-40 as described in the manual.  I'm assuming I have the 312A trans (SAE 20) with my model and not the 417A or 420-LSE, but I'm not sure.  I do have a set of low/high gears 1-3 and reverse.  I think this is considered 8 speeds.

 

Today's plan was to fill it up and run it for a while to see if the seals in the axle would seal back up in case they dried out over winter.  So I topped it off with the Lucas 80W-90 and ran it for about 15 minutes.  It's still leaking, but the leak is a slow leak.

 

I was thinking about draining out all the transaxle oil tomorrow and replacing it with the Lucas 80W-90 and testing again.  The thing is that I'm not really sure what was put in last year.  The Lucas oil I put in didn't seem to mix completely with what was already there.  At least it appears that way on the dipstick.  I'm a little skeptical about using 80W-90 when the manual specifies something much lighter, but I'm trying it per the dealer's mechanic service record and recommendation.

 

Another dealer I talked to said the only way to fix the seals is to take apart the entire axle and basically rebuild for about $600.  I don't want to go this route unless I have to, but I don't want to damage any gears in the process of testing it and trying to get it to seal either.

 

I'm looking for help and advice on how to proceed with this.  Also, wondering if anyone can recommend a good Wheel Horse mechanic in the Chicago area.

It's a axle seal. You can get a set for $10.00. Take the wheel off.  Remove the hub. You can take the seal out with a small pic.

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CurtS

Wow, that sounds easy enough.  Thank you.  Is this the seal that's between the differential and the axle?  The leak is about a foot in from the wheel and about 8" out from the differential.  Where can I buy these seals?

 

What do you think about using the Lucas 80W-90?

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953 nut

Your 308-8 is a manual shift and uses gear oil, the 312-A is a hydro. and uses 10 W 30.

You may only need an axle seal, or it could be more involved. Jack up the rear end and see if the axle not the hub) has any play (movement) from front to rear or up and down. If there is any play you have a bearing that is in need of replacement. If no movement is found it is only a seal and can be replaced without going inside the transaxle.

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CurtS

Thank you!  Yes, manual shift with independent rear suspension.  Do you know what model transaxle I have?

 

I don't see any play and I'd like to try changing the seals.  How do I do this?  Are there instructions anywhere on how to change these seals?  Not sure where to buy the parts either.  None of the dealers I talked to offered this solution.  I don't think they're entirely familiar with Wheel Horse tractors?

 

Anyone know a good Wheel Horse mechanic near Chicago?  I'm in the west burbs.  I'm not a great mechanic and I'd like to find someone local who I can work with to keep my Wheel Horse running well.

 

I also found a viscosity chart the explains that gear oil and crankcase oil have different numbers.  I feel better about using the Lucas gear oil based on this.  It seems the numbers are closer to what's recommended in the manual.  I don't think the Lucas will hurt anything.

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