howell1000 35 #1 Posted April 13, 2017 Got a wheel horse Sk 486 with K341 16 horse on it just replaced fuel pump thought that was the problem it was not the engine will turn over but will not start so put new spark plug in it and same thing it will turn over good but will not start engine so any ideas ???? I took plug out put gas down plug hole and nothing???? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottbrucea 91 #2 Posted April 13, 2017 I'd clean (or replace) and set the gap on the points. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #3 Posted April 13, 2017 6 minutes ago, scottbrucea said: I'd clean (or replace) and set the gap on the points. Check for spark with plug out grounded on the block while cranking it over, if you a vivid blue spark it's most likely not there but if it's light blue to yellow, then check the points gap and adjust accordingly, also the condenser to the coil could have went bad/weak as well as coil, when you pulled the plug after cranking was it wet? if so your getting fuel if not carb issue float valve stuck? Just trying to cover all the bases here, Jeff. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,511 #4 Posted April 13, 2017 Check out section 4 of this manual. Kohler K-Series SM TP-2379 LR.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #5 Posted April 15, 2017 Sir, I would try the following. If you have a VOM meter set it to the DC volts scale. Turn on the ignition and check for voltage from the plus terminal of the coil to ground and note reading or lack of. If no voltage is present then trace back to ignition switch and or fuse block to see if there is a problem there. Note you could try to hot wire it....run a wire from the battery + to the coil and then energize the starter and see if it starts and that would tell you if you have a problem getting 12V to the coil. You should check the coil resistance with a VOM meter. You going to have around 14-16K from the secondary to ground( coil wire terminal to ground) and lower resistance of probably around 3-10 ohms on the primary of the coil. I would make these tests with the battery disconnected and the wires off the coil. You will have a capacitor from the negative terminal of the coil to ground. Take your meter and set to the capacitance scale if it has one. If not set the meter to a high resistance on the ohms scale and touch the negative to the ground of the cap and the positive of the cap and note what the meter does. It should show resistance and then back down. Now reverse the leads and do the same. What your looking for is the cap to charge but not show and keep a resistance. Generally the cap will short or simply show a fixed resistance and in that case throw it away. I don't know without looking it up what the cap value is but I would guess its probably about 1 mfd for a point type ignition. Simple try here would be to remove the cap and replace it with something you have on hand and see if you get spark now. The points... check to make sure they are opening. Run the engine over by hand and note when the points open and check the gap with a clean feeler gauge. Also, note if the points are burned and or pitted as this can also be a sign of a bad condenser. If the points are pitted you can smooth them up with a piece of 400 grit sand paper by inserting the sand paper between the points and then closing the gap by moving the flywheel. Run the paper thru them and then finish by taking a clean piece of white paper and running that thru the points. Then set the point gap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #6 Posted April 15, 2017 One more thing... check the safety switches. If one is open there is no ignition. I will admit I don't have a schematic in front of me. Bypassing these is easy just go from the + batt terminal to the plus coil terminal and try to start the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
