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seven

12 HP Kohler electro 12

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seven

Trying to go thru the carb  (cause it's been running like crap)  and wondering if anyone has ever gotten a rebuild or after market one  .Or is it just better to get a carb kit for the original.?

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Achto
1 hour ago, seven said:

Trying to go thru the carb  (cause it's been running like crap)  and wondering if anyone has ever gotten a rebuild or after market one  .Or is it just better to get a carb kit for the original.?

 

http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_carburetor_parts.htm

 

If you check at the site above, they have both OEM and aftermarket kits. For the few extra bucks, I usually get the OEM kits. These are one item that does not have a big price difference from OEM to A.M.

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:Just make sure you order the RIGHT kit....ask me how I know! :lol::lol: What kind of carb we talkin here  Seven? A few guys here opted for the Chinese knock offs on evilbay with good results. If the throttle shaft is worn might be the way to go..:twocents-02cents:

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KC9KAS

Also, check which way your choke opens/closes as compared to the new carb.

Some pull from the top to close, and some push from the bottom to close.

I just installed an aftermarket carb on a 12 hp Kohler and had to get a longer choke cable and re-route it for a push instead of a pull!

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6bg6ga

Just wondering here.... has anyone gone to a simple solenoid as a push button to choke start feature?  Kinda like some of the older outboard motors used to use. You simply pushed the button to choke and turned the key. When the engine starts you simply remove your finger from the choke button. Unless the weather is really cold outside I've never owned an engine that really wanted any choke setting once it started.

 

My 616Z zero turn needs a quick simple choke to get her going when she is cold and then 100% off the choke and she is fine. 

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6bg6ga

Carb problems..... I've formed the idea right or wrong that alcohol in the fuel is a major contributor in the carb problems we face. Nothing can however keep us from the damage caused by neglect of leaving fuel in the carb for years however. Having said this carbs can easily be replaced or repaired. Being cost effective( nice way of saying I'm cheap) I prefer to take a carb apart and boil it out put a good kit it and return it to its proper owner/engine.  This is something I learned when I was younger growing up with tri-power and dual 4 barrel setups.

 

So, once the carb is clean and kitted one might do better staying away from the 10% or 15% alcohol blends and opt for the premium or what ever doesn't have alcohol in it.

 

Replacing the carb with a bigger one will result probably in drivability and loading problems unless its jetted correctly. Its kinda like putting a 750 cfm carb on a 283. Its not going to run right unless its jetted both primary and secondary. In addition the throttle response isn't going to be the same. Since the carb flows more CFM the throttle response is going to be slower with the bigger throttle bores. 

 

Cubic inches X RPM's divided by 1728 divided by 2 will give the CFM at 100% volumetric efficiency.

Take the 283 again ..at 100% volumetric efficiency that engine can flow 491 CFM @ 6000 RPM so what happens is with a 750 cfm carb it will be a dog until the RPM's get above 6K but that same engine will work so much better with say a 600 or smaller carb.

 

So, bigger isn't better on a smaller engine. It will run sure but you may just find that under load it will be very slow to get the RPMS up and slower and less efficient when pulling a load or simply running the mower.

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seven

Hi

Put a new carburetor kit in and started rite up runs perfect  there was a old homemade baffle gasket on the carburetor bowl also which I think probably was the culprit

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