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squonk

Correct Ign. switch and Genny Belt?

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squonk

67 1267. Battery ign with points. Starter genny cranks it. There is a solenoid added to the crank circuit. Key switch on tractor is a basic OFF/ON/START but looks crusty. I'm assuming a std. 103990 will work. (Same as my 76 C-160) but I'm not sure. Any one have the correct original # ? Also need the genny belt size thanks.

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gwest_ca

The original 1593 (3Lx34.4") belt is no longer available for the starter/generator

7340 Gates .410"x34.58" 36 degree

25-7340 Napa .410"x34.58" 36 degree (I believe these are automotive belts)

 

The original 7263 ignition switch

 

Garry

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squonk

I havent yanked the plastic protector off of the switch, but it seems I saw more than 3 wires but I could be wrong. At least I have something to go off of. There is a solenoid so it may be all changed over.  

 

25-7340 it is. I wanted to use a cogged belt anyway.

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953 nut
14 minutes ago, squonk said:

I saw more than 3 wires

The two wires from the Generator light also go to the switch, with the addition of the solenoid you will need to move one of them to the S/G side of the solenoid.

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squonk

YIKES!! 60 bucks from RCPW on the switch! gah.gif.7d40b5fcd07dcf833e8a0832622311bb.gif

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gwest_ca

Just posted that so you would know what was original. No reason why the 103990 wouldn't work that I can see.

 

Garry

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6bg6ga

I would think you could make most ignition switches work. Arm yourself with a VOM meter to meter the switch. If it looks the same from the outside is one docked points wise if the tractor is in a show class? If not its a simple matter for example to change the connectors from ring terminal to a spade type terminal.

 

I highly recommend that one changing connectors/ ends on wiring due purchase the correct tool to crimp properly. The only tool I am permitted to use is a K&B crimp tool. After crimping I solder the connector. The cheap crimpers you find at some of the big box stores simply smash on side of the connector flat.

P1010002.JPG

P1010003.JPG

Edited by 6bg6ga
pictures
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6bg6ga

I don't have time this morning before work to show a ring terminal or spade terminal or something along that line that I have terminated properly.  Since what I do has to last for years I always use heat shrink tubing which makes it look professional and keeps it safer. Like I mentioned I always solder where the wire is crimped and that insures that there will be no splintering of any lone strands.

 

I did crimp several API's to simply show the contact pattern as its different than the standard cheaper tool that one can pull hard and pull a wire out.  In addition to providing better contact it just looks a lot better than a connector that is flattened and twisted.

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WHX??

 My 1067 was converted over to solenoid Mike and it works pretty good. In the pic you can see where a PO tastefully piggybacked the sol to the back of the S/G. I was thinking about going back to OEM till I saw the price on that switch! You might have to get creative on the dash as the mounting hole there was larger than a after market switch. Prolly have to do this on my 1257 as the switch is getting iffy.

20160524_181153.jpg

Edited by WHX11

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