squonk 38,563 #1 Posted April 9, 2017 67 1267. Battery ign with points. Starter genny cranks it. There is a solenoid added to the crank circuit. Key switch on tractor is a basic OFF/ON/START but looks crusty. I'm assuming a std. 103990 will work. (Same as my 76 C-160) but I'm not sure. Any one have the correct original # ? Also need the genny belt size thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #2 Posted April 9, 2017 The original 1593 (3Lx34.4") belt is no longer available for the starter/generator 7340 Gates .410"x34.58" 36 degree 25-7340 Napa .410"x34.58" 36 degree (I believe these are automotive belts) The original 7263 ignition switch Garry 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,563 #3 Posted April 9, 2017 I havent yanked the plastic protector off of the switch, but it seems I saw more than 3 wires but I could be wrong. At least I have something to go off of. There is a solenoid so it may be all changed over. 25-7340 it is. I wanted to use a cogged belt anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,014 #4 Posted April 9, 2017 14 minutes ago, squonk said: I saw more than 3 wires The two wires from the Generator light also go to the switch, with the addition of the solenoid you will need to move one of them to the S/G side of the solenoid. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,563 #5 Posted April 10, 2017 YIKES!! 60 bucks from RCPW on the switch! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #6 Posted April 10, 2017 Just posted that so you would know what was original. No reason why the 103990 wouldn't work that I can see. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #7 Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) I would think you could make most ignition switches work. Arm yourself with a VOM meter to meter the switch. If it looks the same from the outside is one docked points wise if the tractor is in a show class? If not its a simple matter for example to change the connectors from ring terminal to a spade type terminal. I highly recommend that one changing connectors/ ends on wiring due purchase the correct tool to crimp properly. The only tool I am permitted to use is a K&B crimp tool. After crimping I solder the connector. The cheap crimpers you find at some of the big box stores simply smash on side of the connector flat. Edited April 10, 2017 by 6bg6ga pictures 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #8 Posted April 10, 2017 I don't have time this morning before work to show a ring terminal or spade terminal or something along that line that I have terminated properly. Since what I do has to last for years I always use heat shrink tubing which makes it look professional and keeps it safer. Like I mentioned I always solder where the wire is crimped and that insures that there will be no splintering of any lone strands. I did crimp several API's to simply show the contact pattern as its different than the standard cheaper tool that one can pull hard and pull a wire out. In addition to providing better contact it just looks a lot better than a connector that is flattened and twisted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,403 #9 Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) My 1067 was converted over to solenoid Mike and it works pretty good. In the pic you can see where a PO tastefully piggybacked the sol to the back of the S/G. I was thinking about going back to OEM till I saw the price on that switch! You might have to get creative on the dash as the mounting hole there was larger than a after market switch. Prolly have to do this on my 1257 as the switch is getting iffy. Edited April 10, 2017 by WHX11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites