Duramax7man7 505 #1 Posted April 6, 2017 So is it necessary to put grease on the inside of the oil seal AND is using electrical tape advised to use on the crank to slide the plate back on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #2 Posted April 7, 2017 Alright, well I took no chances and did both of these things... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aHorseofCourse 261 #3 Posted April 7, 2017 I never heard of doing either one . What does grease on the inside do? I just lube up the crank with oil before I slide it on 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #4 Posted April 7, 2017 The Onan manual states that it "improves sealing".... It's not seeping like it was last time and it really seems that there is just a fine bit of oil sitting right at the seal. After I installed the bearing plate and torqued it down I started up the tractor and ran it at idle for a few minutes to warm up. Then I ran it for a couple more at 1800 Rpms... Is this normal after installation? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aHorseofCourse 261 #5 Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) Did you clean up the crank before installing the new seal? Looks a bit rusty, that seal needs a nice smooth surface to do its job. I don't have any experience with Onans but an oil seal shouldn't be wet on the outside. Edited April 7, 2017 by aHorseofCourse 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #6 Posted April 7, 2017 Yes. I cleaned the seal surface well. I used electrical tape over the crank where the seal sits and even smeared a thin layer of grease on the tape so it would slide easier. I took every measure I could including clean hands and work surfaces and tools while installing the seal. Could a little to high oil pressure from maybe almost a quarter quart to much oil cause this effect? I seated the seal down on the shoulder of the bearing plate as well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aHorseofCourse 261 #7 Posted April 7, 2017 Too much oil won't increase the pressure but it might cause it to leak. Another possibility is the seal is a few years old sitting on a shelf before you got it and just needs some time to seat. The rubber might be a bit hard and will loosen up after awhile. I feel your frustration. There's nothing worse than putting a new part on that doesn't work! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #8 Posted April 7, 2017 Okay. I will wait for it soften up a bit and reexamine it. Thanks for the replies and wisdom. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,754 #9 Posted April 7, 2017 Yes you should always grease any kind of seal when new and installing them. It helps prevent "burning" the seal until motor oil can get to it to lube it. A small dab of any kind of grease is better than nothing, I use engine assembly lube. When cleaning up the seal surface be careful not to scratch it. Here I use 1500 grit or better paper. The electrical tape is just to keep the sharp edges of the keyway from nicking the seal. I do know some fellas soak the seal in warm oil to soften them up before installing, Don't know if this helps with sealing or not but can't hurt. 12 hours ago, Mastiffman said: fine bit of oil sitting right at the seal That's ok you know that the seal is getting a little oil then. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #10 Posted April 7, 2017 Another great bit of wisdom! MAN I LOVE This forum! You guys are great! It's like collectively having a Full Wheel Horse Expert right at my fingertips. ha ha. Thanks a ton. Going to replace the oil seal in the Eaton 1100 today as well as by the brake drum... Both have a tiny weep to them. More so in the Eaton though. Slowly oozes out over the top of the pump where the motion shaft comes out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #11 Posted April 12, 2017 Okay, so this seal is still oozing oil? Would it be that I didn't clean the crank well enough? Or could it be something else? The old seal wasn't leaking at all. It was the plate gasket which I replaced. Just figured that I'd do this before it started. This is the second seal that I've installed. This is really frustrating. I have the seal seated right against the lip of the bearing plate as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #12 Posted April 12, 2017 Here is what I'm getting during running the engine at WOT... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aHorseofCourse 261 #13 Posted April 13, 2017 Wow that's leaking pretty good. I'm going to assume you have the seal facing the right way? Could be a rough spot on the crank tearing up the seal, or the seals are junk. Hit the crank with 800 then 2000 grit sand paper till it's so shiney you can see your face in it. That's what I would try next. Any hardeware or big box store should have that sandpaper. Maybe check the crank breather to make sure the crankcase is venting right. If it's not, when the engine warms up it will build pressure and force oil out the seals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #14 Posted April 13, 2017 Okay, thanks for the reply. I will do that. The seal is in the right way. I have 600 but nothing higher. I will do that. I didn't see a manufacturing date on this package but the last one had a late 2016 date on it and it leaked. I will check the breather. Maybe some wood chip dust got in there some how. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onanparts.com 178 #15 Posted April 13, 2017 Ditto on getting the crank sealing surface polished clean. Sometimes the old seal will have worn a thin groove in the crank sealing surface. The seal can be installed/located deeper or shallower to avoid this area. It does not always need to be pressed in until it bottoms out. Use heavy wheel bearing grease on the seal lips, inside/outside before installing it. The Blue Snot boat axle wheel bearing grease works the best. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #16 Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) I will try and polish the crank a bit and see if that does the trick. I really don't want to have to purchase a 3rd oil seal though. So I will try that first. I didn't see any grooves in the crank when installing it and the oil seal lip is pretty tight around the crank as it is. I can't just slip it on for the last 1/4" of the crank. I use the bolts in a star pattern to easy it on over that area. From the photos I took it looks like the old seal wasn't set as deep as this one. So I should be fine on the deeper seat. Edited April 13, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
