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Xearl

523XI Snow blower trouble

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Posted (edited)

Well we got the snow  and halfway down the driveway the augers stopped turning . Well once before the belt came off , not this time .  I can turn the auger but the impeller shaft doesn't move . Looking at the parts diagram there are keyways on both gears and I'm hoping one of them sheared off .  Has anyone worked on one of these  ? I could use some advice on the best way to go about this .  I just spent two days with the 518 XI with a plow clearing enough to get out and have enough room for delivery trucks to turn around .

Edited by Xearl
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I'm not familiar with the XI two stage, but on the earlier two stage, there were shear bolts on each auger.  I would check them first.  Might be that simple.

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I have checked hem . Thanks .  Ed

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So you can check off the easy fix.  Looks like it time to crack the auger gear box.  The gear box is simple, two gears, 3 seals and 3 bronze bearings.  Also in there are a couple of thrust bearings and washers on the auger shaft.  I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago.  You can split the gear box cases and slide the halves back on the shaft. but you will have to remove the side plates and augers first.  Once the housing are backed off you can pull the assembly off the impeller shaft and check things out.  Fun job for cold weather.

A couple of pictures of mine as I put it back together.  Maybe it helps.

 

DSCN0498_zpsesnavq3y.jpg

 

DSCN0503_zpsvmfhkbcv.jpg

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Kurt , Thank you for the reply.  I was hoping to be able just to slide the cases .The shaft is rusty so I will have to clean next to the housing but not the whole length  . I'm hoping one of the keys is sheared off. Thanks again for the great pictures . ED

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They make/offer a complete rebuild kit with bushings and gears seals and gasket, in case it's worse than that, it's the same gearbox on the walk behinds from TORO, the seals don't "seal" very well and the gear oil should be check every season before use, the only difference between the classic and xi is the PTO routing, no jackshaft box belt runs directly to the impeller, hope this helps, Jeff.

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Thanks . Someone on ebay had a  the whole insides but it was sold the next day . I have located the part numbers and have found some on ebay that are new and well below list .  I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I need . Thanks for the post it is appreciated .   Ed

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Posted (edited)

58d0592a48742_gear2.thumb.jpg.82f2348937f2de75bdccbf55f691ae87.jpgWell my hopes for a simple repair were answered as soon as I had the case open  a half an inch . Dry as a bone and ground to a pulp .  This is my own fault and I can't believe I did something this stupid . I replaced sprockets , chains and auger bushings and did not check the gear case . Dry as a bone and I don't like the looks of one thing inside including the case . Well I found all the parts I need to do the whole thing . A case off  Ebay  along with gears ,bushings and seals for the auger shaft   . The impeller shaft worm gear comes with the other gears set  everything else on that shaft was ordered new .  The only parts that will not be replaced  are the big shaft and the two thrust washers on either side of the bronze gear .  The whole thing cost me $ 260.00 .  Today I got my truck out of the snow thanks to my 518XI with the plow . Kurt if you read this I was looking at the pictures you sent me and it looks like you cleaned up the mating surfaces of the gear box on a flat surface . Am I right ?58d0583380af2_Gearcase..thumb.jpg.b2a5a4636f7e50de36cc6d0eff883f25.jpg

Edited by Xearl
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Well, I guess you found the problem.  If I remember correctly, I found some replacement gears on Flea Bay for reasonable money.  And Yes, I did flatten the mating surfaces on the housing.  I used some wet-or-dry silicon carbide paper on my table saw surface.  I just worked the housing around a bit until they cleaned up.  I didn't get carried away.  Just enough to remove the high spots.  A new gasket and some black RTV sealed it up.

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Those new factory replacement shaft seals were not much better than the original seals I removed, I found some industrial "flat" o-rings (on the right) that were firmer and snugger fitting and have not seen any sign of leakage yet, Jeff.

 

IMAG2476.jpg

IMAG2475.jpg

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Good move Jeff.  When I rebuilt my gear box I did not like the fit of the auger shaft seals.  So I packed the gear box with synthetic grease.  I'll have to see if I can find your seals.  That reminds me, I should squirt in some grease ointo my gear box after my work out in 28" of snow last week.

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So Jeff where did you get the o-rings ? I will be waiting for all the parts I ordered so I have some time before I put things back together .  I'm hoping we don't get any more big storms here in the Catskills .  Thanks  ED

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Ed, that's some mess you uncovered. But at least you found it, just a mistake, I make them all the time. Best of luck.

GLENN

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Thanks Glen . My wife said "that proves your not perfect "   I like mechanical work so it's not bad at all except the thing broke down on my first pass down the driveway with 2 feet of snow .   ED

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9 hours ago, Xearl said:

So Jeff where did you get the o-rings ? I will be waiting for all the parts I ordered so I have some time before I put things back together .  I'm hoping we don't get any more big storms here in the Catskills .  Thanks  ED

I work in an industrial facility and they just happened to have the correct O.D."xI.D."xwidth", but I did looked them up through "o-rings.com" I believe ...again flat industrial style, sorry it's been almost 2 years and I didn't record it all as I was moving along with my rebuild, Jeff.

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Jeff ,Thanks for getting back to me . I'll see what I can do .   ED

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When I was an Engineman (diesel mechanic) in the USCG, we use to use a lapping plate for injectors, etc. Now I use a piece of glass with wetordry sandpaper. For aluminum, I would start with 1000 grit. Sometimes it is hard to see how much to remove. Spray a light coat of flat black paint on the surface, let dry, and work it until the paint is removed

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Posted (edited)

Good tip John, might try to use that to check the flatness of heads.

 

So what you are saying guys is that gearbox should have oil in it or grease like Kurts? Do these units have fittings for checking oil levels? Could a guy tap in a grease zerk and give it a shot after every blowing?

Signed

A deuce :teasing-newbie: looking forward to a rebuild! :lol:

Edited by WHX9
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John , Thanks . I have used this method before .  I have worked as a marine mechanic ,inboard and out board ,and also went to Mercury outboard school for training . Gear box calls for oil filled up to the plug but Kurt has picture with grease and I don't think he has had any trouble . I am now waiting  for all my part to come in the meantime I will clean the main shat . Thanks everyone for the input it is a great help . ED

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26 minutes ago, WHX9 said:

 

So what you are saying guys is that gearbox should have oil in it or grease like Kurts? Do these units have fittings for checking oil levels? Could a guy tap in a grease zerk and give it a shot of grease.

I used 75/90 full synthetic gear lube in both gearboxes on the classic style 2stage as the xi only has the auger/impeller gearbox, manual calls for 90wt I believe ,but I went with the multi-vis to help in extreme cold, now if you can't find the better o-rings like I did I suppose the grease like Kurt uses should be of no problem, it does have fill/drain plugs on the gearboxes and being aluminum shouldn't be problem to drill/tap and zerk, Jeff.

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I will be using 75/90 Amsoil synthetic gear oil and this time I will be sure to look for leakage and keep it  topped off .

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Xearl said:

I will be using 75/90 Amsoil synthetic gear oil and this time I will be sure to look for leakage and keep it  topped off .

 

Don't use that Amsoil 75/90 gear oil. It doesn't say anything about being safe for brass or bronze gears. You will be doing the job over again as it will eat the bronze. The Amsoil MTF says it can be used on bronze gears.

 

Some of my walk-behinds have bronze gears in their transmissions and attachment gearboxes. Ask a Gravely guy what they use.  I use Sta-Lube (CRC) GL-4 from NAPA in mine. Pricey! You have to be careful as some gear oil will say it will work with blonde gears but actually doesn't.

 

 

Edited by shallowwatersailor

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This is what I used, good for extreme temperatures and posi-trac rears and manual transmissions, they also have 75w-140 too, Jeff.

Screenshot_20170321-170526.png

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John , II found the Amsoil MTF  . I have time to make up my mind waiting for parts .  ED

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