drax1374 1 #1 Posted March 16, 2017 I have a 70's something C-120 that I redone. It ran like a champ for about a year and then it started pouring gas out of the carb throat and into the air cleaner. I pulled the carb off and rebuilt it with a Napa Kit. Ran good for one mowing and started doing it again. I was told maybe a clogged vent, so I tore it all apart, soaked it and rebuilt it again. Still having the same problem. I could not get the float valve seat out, I think it is seized, so that is the only thing left I can think of. I am ready to just replace the carb entirely. Does anyone have a rebuilt one to sell or a recommendation for an upgrade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,861 #2 Posted March 16, 2017 Go to eBay and search for a replacement for the K301 carburetor. I have used several of the Chinese knock-offs and they work great. Price should be around $75.00. I always buy from eBay seller "cfamily10". His carbs always come with the correct choke linkage and have SAE (American) threads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,485 #3 Posted March 16, 2017 When you replace the carburetor be sure to replace the fuel line and filter. The problem could be the fuel you have been using, if you use gas with ethanol in it the rubber components will deteriorate. Go to buyrealgas.com to find a station that caries non ethanol gas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classicdmax 190 #4 Posted March 17, 2017 I recently had same issue. I replaced carb with an eBay jobby I bought last summer as a spare and so far so good. (I thought it only cost me $40 or so) Although I did have to remove the choke linkage and clock the flag for proper operation. Just pried it off, rotated 180deg and pressed back on. All my fuel lines were already previously replaced except from pump to carb. So replaced that as well. but prior firing and sending fuel thru the carb, I left the carb side of fuel line discontnected, pulled the coil wire, and turned over a couple times to clear out any crud that may have been in there. Good thing I did because quite a bit of debris came out. Also ordered a rebuild kit for oem carb and will rebuild to have that as a spare now Also note, it was recommended to me to do an oil change as cheap insurance as you may have gotten fuel thru the intake and now in the crankcase essentially thinning down your oil. I did as suggested and found my fairly fresh oil to be very dirty, and gassy smelling. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,485 #5 Posted March 17, 2017 10 minutes ago, classicdmax said: do an oil change as cheap insurance as you may have gotten fuel thru the intake and now in the crankcase essentially thinning down your oil. I did as suggested and found my fairly fresh oil to be very dirty, and gassy smelling. Good point, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drax1374 1 #6 Posted March 17, 2017 Thank you all for the advise, good info. I am going to buy a new carb and see what happens. Thanks again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #7 Posted March 17, 2017 Having pulled the Carb apart several times, replacing a few parts and still getting the same problem tells me you likely have a leak in the Float?. It slowly fills with fuel with variations in temperature. If you have not junked it yet, and you want to save it, take the Float out and submerge it in a bowl of hand hot/warm water to check if there are a trail of bubbles showing from any joints. If you have any leaks, note, or mark where they appear. If any fuel trapped inside, it can be removed by using the same temperature variation method, i.e. let it cool down, then hold it so the holes are facing down (lowest point) and let the heat from your hand, or even the Sun warm the Float. The air inside will expand and force the fuel out through the leak. You can then repair the leak. I've repaired many old Brass Floats like this and they are all still good. Regards 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drax1374 1 #8 Posted March 17, 2017 Good point on the float, for some reason I overlooked that. Sometimes the obvious bites me in the back side. I will check that before I go any further. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jay bee 817 #9 Posted March 18, 2017 A friend of mine had the same problem as you. He also rebuilt the carb a couple times with the same results...still leaking fuel out the carb throat. He wanted a "new set if eyes" to look at it so he brought it over. We took it apart, I shook the float which he had never bothered to do, and found the problem. We replaced the float with a new one and problem was solved. Sometimes we do overlook the obvious. Jim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #10 Posted March 23, 2017 Maybe there is a better way but, I had a seat that was so seized I figured the carb was to be junked anyway so I tried getting it out with a method that ended up working. I used a dremel cutting wheel and made a notch on the best angle to hit it with a punch. Using a padded vise I was able to tap it quickly and hard enough to break it loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
123GO 78 #11 Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) On 3/17/2017 at 3:55 PM, Anglo Traction said: Having pulled the Carb apart several times, replacing a few parts and still getting the same problem tells me you likely have a leak in the Float?. It slowly fills with fuel with variations in temperature. If you have not junked it yet, and you want to save it, take the Float out and submerge it in a bowl of hand hot/warm water to check if there are a trail of bubbles showing from any joints. If you have any leaks, note, or mark where they appear. If any fuel trapped inside, it can be removed by using the same temperature variation method, i.e. let it cool down, then hold it so the holes are facing down (lowest point) and let the heat from your hand, or even the Sun warm the Float. The air inside will expand and force the fuel out through the leak. You can then repair the leak. I've repaired many old Brass Floats like this and they are all still good. Regards Great reminder, so many people don't check the float and toss out a good carb out of pure frustration. How to test/fix one is not mentioned much so' glad to see it here. Thanks Edited June 29, 2020 by 123GO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
123GO 78 #12 Posted June 29, 2020 On 3/16/2017 at 5:24 PM, rmaynard said: Go to eBay and search for a replacement for the K301 carburetor. I have used several of the Chinese knock-offs and they work great. Price should be around $75.00. I always buy from eBay seller "cfamily10". His carbs always come with the correct choke linkage and have SAE (American) threads. Saw some Kohler carbs advertised SAE threads online. Do OEM Carter/Kohler kits/parts fit in his carbs? Some China carbs have SAE threads on the fuel line "Only" so other OEM parts won't work. Saw some sellers offering their own rebuild kits to repair their carbs but I yet to see prices on those repair parts, not even on Ebay. They're not being advertised online where I see their carbs being sold, odd? Maybe cheaper to replace whole carb vs kit idk? Many China carb/partshave no numbers on them to match parts, just a whole other world there but his really may be different & that sure would be nice to see, count me in! Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
