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tallen4392

commando 8 trans

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tallen4392

Can someone tell me if this is normal  i just recived a commando 8 and finally got it running when you move the shift lever slow it will grind changing gears but if you change fast and quick it seems to work better is this how these older machines work.?????  THANKS AGAIN  

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pfrederi

Shouldn't be that way.   Is the belt guard in place and adjusted so it is close to the belt by the engine pulley?

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tallen4392

Belt guard is missing I have one coming is that the problem u think ??

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Ed Kennell

                                               BINGO

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N3PUY

Don't ride it without the belt guard .... you may not be able to stop :(

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daveoman1966

You should NOT try to shift on-the-fly.  That is, these are NOT synchromesh transmissions.  You MUST start from complete STOP in every gear.  

 

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oldlineman

:text-yeahthat:

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tallen4392

Thanks for the info but i did drive it without the guard it stopped pretty good...I  wanted to be sure all the gears worked  they did just hard to go into gear..  Is the tranny in these older horses  durable.. ???

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953 nut
34 minutes ago, tallen4392 said:

I  wanted to be sure all the gears worked  they did just hard to go into gear..  Is the tranny in these older horses  durable.

You answered your own question, 50 year old transmission;  doing fine.

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pfrederi

They are very durable...if you do not try speed shifting or shifting with out a belt guard.

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rjg854

They are pretty durable as long as you shift them without grinding gears often :ychain:

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N3PUY

If you're going to drive it around, put it into gear before starting the motor. 

That way you won't shift with motor running.

This is what happens without the belt guard ...

58c09ffd695cc_IMG_1027(800x600).jpg.38fae48c680041bd4e73eec2861345a3.jpg

Edited by N3PUY
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wildman
16 minutes ago, N3PUY said:

If you're going to drive it around, put it into gear before starting the motor. 

That way you won't shift with motor running.

This is what happens without the belt guard ...

58c09ffd695cc_IMG_1027(800x600).jpg.38fae48c680041bd4e73eec2861345a3.jpg

OUCH!!

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Racinbob

Please listen to what the guys have told you. The drive belt MUST come to a COMPLETE stop before you shift. That it what the belt guard does for you. The gear shown looks like the 3rd/2nd gear and the damage shown was done by grinding it into 2nd gear. Look at the other side and you'll see the inner teeth (or what's left of them) that mesh with the input gear in 3rd. I can't show you a picture because the computer I have it on is 1000 miles away. That is by far the #1 cause of these transmissions slipping out of 3rd gear. It's a common problem and always caused by grinding the gears. Except for the addition of the hi/low ranges the newer transmissions aren't much different than the older ones. Both are very tough but grinding is abusing and abusing ruins things no matter how tough. :)

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tallen4392

To change the fluid i looked at the book removed the allenhead plug on the bottom left  got about a quart out  then removed the plug on the left rear to fill it only took 1 quart to fill it everyhere i read says takes 2 quarts to fill i dont get it am i doing something wrong ??

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Racinbob

You need to lift the front of the tractor up to completely drain it. Look under the transmission at the center bolt holding the case halves together. You'll see the hump it forms blocking oil in front of it. :)

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tallen4392

I will try it thanks

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tallen4392

Hi i was just wondering how the side cover for the belt makes the trans shift smoother..  there was no cover on it when i got it so just wondering how it works does it rub against the belt so it cant move when shifting ??  THANKS for the info i am learning a lot about these older machines 

Edited by tallen4392

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rmaynard

The simple answers is...the drive belt will not stop unless you have the belt cover on. The cover has tabs that guide the belt away from the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed. With the belt continuing to turn, no matter how slow, the gears in the tranny are still moving making the gears grind when attempting to put it into gear.

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tallen4392

Thanks i guess i will see how it works when i get a look at it ....

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Ed Kennell

Yes, the belt guard must be  on to stop the belt from moving.   Like Bob said, the tabs guide the  belt away from the drive pulley. 

The bottom flange on the belt guard also supports the belt preventing the weight of the belt from pulling the belt down and contacting the drive pulley. 

I really feel this is the most important factor in stopping the belt.

   When I built my custom low rider, I did not install a belt guard or tabs at the drive pulley, bit I did install several  support pins below the bottom of the belt and I  have the idler pulley belt keeper adjusted so it pinches the belt slightly  when the clutch is depressed.    It works great.    :twocents-02cents:

 

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953 nut
4 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

idler pulley belt keeper adjusted so it pinches the belt slightly  when the clutch is depressed.

Needs to be at the top so it will grab the belt as it pivots forward, not like the one that is circled.

ideler.JPG.7cbd6c7b61139ff389595128e30c0983.JPG

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Ed Kennell

Exactly Richard.    I'm guessing the best position will be about midway between your two marks.   Best is to block the clutch fully depressed, then adjust the belt keeper so it pinches the belt in front of the pulley.   Then release the clutch and make sure it does not contact the belt as the one in your picture.

It should be noted that the belt has to be the correct length.  If it is too long, the keeper will contact the belt  at each end of the clutch stroke.

Edited by Ed Kennell
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tallen4392

Good call on the belt guard installed it today shifts like new ... THANKS  for the info 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.....

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Ed Kennell

BTW Tom,   your mid mount attach-a-matic  was shipped today.  I sent you a PM.

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