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stevebo

551 Suburban Electrical Help

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I think you can see it on photo? Perhaps not first letter. I will get that number for you.

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Ok figured out that the selinoid works as i grounded the center terminal and it turned the starter. The problem I have is the key switch is no good as it is no sending a ground to the selinoid in the start position. Question is what is the replacement key switch source or cross over part number? 

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First a correction in one of my previous statements. My switch does have 3 terminals the third terminals actually a ground and it is unused since its tab contacts case therefor being grounded by case.

 

I cannot find any corresponding solenoid to the number given in the parts breakdown. I believe it's merely a 12volt insulated solenoid. Case is not grounded. It is small connector that activates ground completing circuit.I have one if you need it.

Switch should be a 3656, not easy to find. I should have a spare. let me look.

 

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Posted (edited)

Of course when i need it I cant find it. I know there is one here somewhere. The only place I have been able to find those switches new was at the show from one of the vendors. He lives close by there because he always has to go home to get it.

 

The other option I used twice before on others 551s is the one below. Looks different, different key but it functions almost the same. One on now. They don't show up very often either.

Cole Hersee 95510-B Magneto Ignition/Starter Switch, 3 position, Extra HD, NOS!

Edited by formariz

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You found a stash of the right ones? Awesome.

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Posted (edited)

When you get them show me the bottom of it.They vary a bit sometimes. One time I just did a little modification to it and the other time just changed wiring slightly, or it may be just right. I think it may have to do with letter at end of #.

Edited by formariz

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You can always open the switches to clean the contacts and re-assemble.

Pretty simple inside there, so since you have a switch that doesn't work now, there's absolutely nothing to loose! Just pay attention to the position of the pieces as you remove them.

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, wallfish said:

You can always open the switches to clean the contacts and re-assemble.

Pretty simple inside there, so since you have a switch that doesn't work now, there's absolutely nothing to loose! Just pay attention to the position of the pieces as you remove them.

Yes,  that type switch is easy to open just having those little tabs. Did that once but it was too badly corroded and although it worked it was unreliable sometimes not working.Definitely worth a try. Those things are not easy to find.

Edited by formariz

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41 minutes ago, stevebo said:

I may try that but my right hand is in a cast for the next 5 weeks:ph34r:

That sucks. What happened?

Send it to me and I'll do it for you.

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Been putting this off for a year now. Had to repair tendons. this cast today after being in splint since last Tuesday. This stays on for two weeks and then another cast in a different position for two more weeks and then therapy. At least I got wheel horse red:ph34r:

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Oh boy! Hurts just to look at it.Hope you recover fast. Been putting off Carpal Tunnel surgery on both hands for a year also. Not looking forward to it.

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Any of us gearheads need to save that seller on Ebay - he's got a whole lot of NOS stuff , especially Cole Hersee electrical parts that have been MIA for a very long time....saved for future use .

 

Good luck with the wrist , rarely ever turn out correct but hoping for a good outcome - need to get mine fixed one of these days , ugh .

 

Sarge

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Any of us gearheads need to save that seller on Ebay - he's got a whole lot of NOS stuff , especially Cole Hersee electrical parts that have been MIA for a very long time....saved for future use .

 

Good luck with the wrist , rarely ever turn out correct but hoping for a good outcome - need to get mine fixed one of these days , ugh .

 

Sarge

After reading Sarge's post above I decided to go back and see what else he had, and incredibly this guy has the proper Wico coil for the Lauson h55 which this post is about. I have literally been looking on and off for years for a new replacement coil. He seems to have a few of them (minus the ones I got) so if anyone is looking for them here they are!

 

WICO #12915 5-5033 COIL FITS LAUSON ENGINES 28259 NEW OLD STOCK!!

Edited by formariz

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17 hours ago, stevebo said:

Been putting this off for a year now. Had to repair tendons. this cast today after being in splint since last Tuesday. This stays on for two weeks and then another cast in a different position for two more weeks and then therapy. At least I got wheel horse red:ph34r:

 

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OK, I'll play

 

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Your terrible 'fish...making fun of a guy's maladies....shouldn't you be posting pics of switch contacts or somethin?? .....oh what the heck what's the old saying laughter's the best medicine?!?!?

stevebo_JPG_c12984824f743ffc9f017d9bb535b2e3.jpg

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 this should do. Now we can reference this pic for switch pole questions too

 

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Well today I was able to finally try and fire this 551. I do not have the new key switch yet so in order to start it I simply put a ground to the center post on the selnoid. 

 

 

 

 

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Awesome. Sounds good too. Check to see if it is charging. Sometimes they run them without the battery in the system and burn out diodes.

I see a couple of air filters in tool box. Those also not easy to find. There is however a Clinton filter that works and is easier to find.

551 was my first tractor. Old Milly is still here.

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It sounds strong but smokes some. Cannot confirm if it is the fuel with a decent amount or sea foam in it or the motor burning oil. I found two oil leaks. One coming from governor shaft and one around oil filler tube. I need to figure out part numbers for new oil seals for each.

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