Texas Todd 1,024 #26 Posted March 3, 2017 54 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said: What i do is get a piece of Formica and make a full suspension slide that fits under the slide bar. I throw a wad of synthetic grease under it [to prevent rust] and use plumbers clear silicone grease on the top and slide bar after polishing the underside of the slide bar. Just cut some slots in the Formica to keep it in place between the tensioner bolts. The deck belt lasts forever or close to it I would like to see pictures of this upgrade if you have them. Sounds like a great idea! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petes 150 #27 Posted March 3, 2017 Rub the tractor tins down with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, you might like what you see. Except for the touch up on the front of the hood, the rest is what came out from under the dirt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,534 #28 Posted March 4, 2017 10 hours ago, ohiofarmer said: Good on you for cleaning that deck. Look at all that rust under the belt guard What happens is all that dust combines with moisture and turns to rust. then the belt tensioner slide bar gets frozen and the deck belt has no shock absorber. Those little Delrin slides wear down and also they leave a gap under the slide bar for dirt to gather What i do is get a piece of Formica and make a full suspension slide that fits under the slide bar. I throw a wad of synthetic grease under it [to prevent rust] and use plumbers clear silicone grease on the top and slide bar after polishing the underside of the slide bar. Just cut some slots in the Formica to keep it in place between the tensioner bolts. The deck belt lasts forever or close to it I don't use belt guards and blow the mowing chaff out every few mowings, but that is your call on the belt guards. Congrats on a really great buy! You are correct, the slide bar was frozen & one of the spindle bearings was locked up so the shaft was just spinning in the race. I freed up the bearing but they are the old Double D non greaseable spindles, so I'm not going to waste too much time on them. I have a newer style of round hole greasable spindles I plan on using instead, too hard to find blades for the ol' Double D's anyhow. I've been wanting a 48" side discharge deck for many years, now that I have one I'm going to fix it right. There is a sign on the wall at the sandblasting company I go to that says, "If you don't have the time to do something correctly, when are you going to have the time to do it again?". Thank you for the tips, I love the Formica trick, I will give it a go! I agree about the belt guard too, big debris & water trap. Still a Wheel Horse part though, so I blasted & primered it anyhow. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,156 #29 Posted March 5, 2017 If you look close, you can see the piece of woodgrain Formica. Just notch it around the bolts of the slide retainer at each end and put that polished slide bar over the top 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Texas Todd 1,024 #30 Posted March 5, 2017 Interesting. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,534 #31 Posted March 17, 2017 Got a few more things fixed on the C-120 this week, took the tank out to get at the wiring & fix the lights. The switch was bad & installed a new water tight blade fuse. One headlight socket had lost the brass insert for the + wire on the base, the PO had the wire folded over on top of the hole with the bulb pressing down on it. I re purposed the the wire from the old round fuse holder to fix it. Drilled out the round bulb insulator base hole to 5/32, slid the re purposed wire & terminal through the base & used shrink tube on the back of the terminal to hold it place & insulate it. Worked perfect ! Better than a new one as the old fuse end has a little "cup" for the bottom of the bulb. Also replaced the tail light with a new one, (wally world $2). I noticed when I went to look at the tractor the lift handle would not go all the way back & lock, this turned out to be the problem... Instead of the eyebolt & chain to the lift bar, someone had put this together... Why do people do this??? It cost me $3 to make this, same as factory original... I'm not even going to comment on the plow lift "link"... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #32 Posted March 18, 2017 the solid lift bar was original for a C120, the chain lift came out years later and replaced the solid rod eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,534 #33 Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) 31 minutes ago, ericj said: the solid lift bar was original for a C120, the chain lift came out years later and replaced the solid rod eric j Must not have been the right one then, even in the back hole the lift arm would hit the steering shaft & jam. then the rod would slide up through the trunnion and get stuck & not let it back down.... Thanks for the info, I just looked at my newer C's & copied the lift chain setup... Edited March 18, 2017 by Blasterdad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T McCool 287 #34 Posted March 18, 2017 I love craigslist, horses pop up around here all the time. From what I see you got a good deal right there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
