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Good afternoon my name is Carlos and I write from Spain, I have been asking some doubts and it is time to go putting the restoration.

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Please ask any questions as you begin the restoration. You should take lots of pictures of the :wh: as you begin the disassembly process, as you begin putting it back together you can look at them to see what parts fit where.

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The condition of the 702 is good in general, the engine works but I have to check the carburetor, seals and paint. When I dismounted I saw that the frame was cracked and I decided to buy one used in the USA.

The cylinder head gasket must be replaced with leaks.

After cleaning the engine, remove the petrol pump and notice that it lacks the pin that drives the pump, you will have to replace it.

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Nice, good to see some WH made their way out to Spain, I wish more of the round hoods made their way to the UK :(

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  • 44 minutes ago, carlosking450 said:

    You must have a lever for your actuation, right?

    You are correct sir, you should take the base pan off to look for it. in case it fell into it.

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3 hours ago, carlosking450 said:

The petrol pump is broken, right? You must have a lever for your actuation, right?

Several of the early Kohler 6 and 7 HP engines used a vacuum operated fuel pump, the up and down movement of the piston creates alternating pressure and vacuum which pulses the pump diaphragm. This type of pump must have a good gasket where it bolts to the block to work.

If there is no hole in the sides pf the pump that would serve as a pivot point for the arm then you have the vacuum pump and all is well. 

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4 hours ago, WHX9 said:
  • You are correct sir, you should take the base pan off to look for it. in case it fell into it.

No jim, on a 702 its a vacuum operated pulse pump. You can get a new diaphragm from buckrancher. Later years ran a lever to the camshaft that you are thinking of.

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Your fuel pump has two check valves (one in and one out) and a diaphragm, no real moving parts. The valve body will should look like the one on the left in the photo. If you remove the screw and remove the valves one at a time and invert (turn over) the rubber washers under the valve then reassemble it you will give it a new lease on life. If your diaphragm is good you can reuse it, if not send a personal message to @buckrancher, he is a member here and produces new ones.

58ab982c9f08f_kohlerfuelpumps003.thumb.JPG.f6867e1c6fbf7ad2e069f25d554e53e3.JPG

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Bob I hope you don't mind but these are some really good detailed photos of this pump. I tried making a link to your post but couldn't figure it out . @rmaynard I'll hide post if you disapprove or have mods remove it . Don't want to break no rules.

 

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ID: 3   Posted April 27, 2016 (edited)

Raining here today, so I have plenty of downtime. Took some pictures for you.

 

Here is the vacuum operated (pulse) pump assembled

pulse pump.jpg

 

 

Notice the IN and OUT markings on the top

in-out.jpg

 

 

With the screws removed, the pump splits open revealing the diaphragm.

split.jpg

 

diaphragm.jpg

 

 

With the diaphragm removed, the one-way valve assembly is seen.

oneway valve assembled.jpg

 

One screw is removed and the valve cover is removed. Notice the INLET side (left) has a fine coil spring, and the OUTLET side (right) has a flat disc. There is

also a gasket to seal the cover.

oneway valve1.jpg

 

 

On the left we see the INLET disc, and on the right we see the OUTLET spring.

oneway valve.jpg

 

 

That is how it supposed to be assembled. I hope this helps.

 

Edited April 27, 2016 by rmaynard
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No problem.

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Good evening first thanks to everyone for your help, I have two questions.
-There are repair kits for sale?
- Can a lever pump be mounted? Or does the camshaft not have the cam to drive the pump?

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36 minutes ago, carlosking450 said:

Good evening first thanks to everyone for your help, I have two questions.
-There are repair kits for sale?

The diaphragm is probably the only part that would need replacement; send a PM to buckrancher on this site if you need one.
- Can a lever pump be mounted? Or does the camshaft not have the cam to drive the pump?

I doubt that your cam shaft will have a lobe on it to operate the mechanical pump. If you don't want to use the old pump you could use an electric pump; it will cost less than rebuilding the old one.

 

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Hi Carlos...your fuel pump is probably OK.  @buckrancher sells the gasket that fits that pump if you need it.  You do not need a kit, usually a little Carburetor cleaner will free up the little balls in there if they are stuck.   Also, you do not need to, nor do you want to get a pump that has a lever.  Your pump is just fine.  :)

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Good night again, thanks for your answers, I will clean the pump outside and when the mountain will review its operation, a greeting!

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Good evening, colleagues, today I have been involved with the kholer, I have not been able to devote much time but good something has been done.
I've taken the valves off their docks to clean them and make them seat.

FvapDM6.jpg

Another doubt I have is the exhaust I want to place one that the thread is female and the measurement of the exhaust outlet is more or less 32mm, can someone tell me what step or American measurement should I buy for that tailpipe measurement?

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I have another doubt and it is that I have observed that the lever of the governor when moving it manually stays in the position that leaves it is correct this or must return to some position by the force of some spring?

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Thanks¡¡¡¡¡¡¡

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Good evening this weekend I followed with the renovation of my 702 wheel horse I could not do much but good.
I have cleaned the cylinder head and it is in perfect condition and has already been rectified because it has engraved 0.10. The valves are definitely going to change because they are very chopped their seat.

p0xoSDw.jpg

 

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I have a doubt about the lever of the governor when moving it with the hand stays in the position that leaves, and I do not know if this is correct or if it should return to its position by the action of the spring that carries in the lever

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1 inch National Pipe has an OD of 1.315" or 33.4mm. The wall thickness determines the Schedule number for the pipe with Schedule 40 being the most common having an inside diameter of 1.049" or 26.6mm. The thread diameter is smaller at the end of the pipe than where the threads stop. Commonly called a tapered National pipe thread. (NPT)

 

Usually an electrical conduit nut is threaded on the pipe first. Install the pipe so it almost tight in the hole. Then back it out 1/4 of a turn and using a hammer and punch tap the conduit nut tight to lock the threads. A never-seize product added to the threads will help stop rusting of the threads so it is easier to remove next time. 

 

Garry

Nut conduit.jpg

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The throttle cable needs to turn the disc with the holes in it when the speed is increased. That adds tension to the spring. The other end of the spring is connected to the governor arm.

 

Governors try to slow the engine down. The higher the rpm the more pressure the governor develops.

The throttle cable tries to increase engine rpm by increasing the pressure on the spring.

Those 2 pressures will be equal and give you the rpm selected.

 

Good manual on the governors

Garry

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Hi friends, we continue with the restoration of my wheel horse 702, the engine has changed the two valves and a new plane has been made at the cylinder head.
The cylinder head gasket has also been changed.

1xcx0oB.jpg

I've also fitted a new carburetor.
I had to clean the gas pump and set up the same gasket again.

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Someone can tell me the type of thread and measurement of the pump inlet and outlet of the pump? The connections that I have are in poor condition

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The engine has been started and works very well, and only need to disassemble again and paint

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On 2017-2-21 at 5:34 AM, ACman said:

Bob espero que no te importe, pero estos son algunos muy buenas fotos detalladas de esta bomba. He intentado hacer un enlace a su puesto, pero no podía entenderlo. @rmaynard Voy a esconder post si usted no aprueba o tienen mods quitarlo. No quiero romper ninguna regla.

 

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ID:  3    Publicado 27 de abril de, el año 2016  (editado)

Lloviendo aquí hoy, así que tengo un montón de tiempo de inactividad. Tomó algunas fotos para usted.

 

Aquí se hace funcionar el vacío (pulso) de la bomba montado

pump.jpg pulso

 

 

Note las marcas IN y OUT en la parte superior

en-out.jpg

 

 

Con los tornillos quitados, las divisiones Decolte abierto revelando el diafragma.

split.jpg

 

diaphragm.jpg

 

 

Con el diafragma elimina, se ve el conjunto de válvula de una sola vía.

assembled.jpg válvula unidireccional

 

Un tornillo se retira y se retira la cubierta de la válvula. Observe el lado de entrada (izquierda) tiene un muelle helicoidal bien, y el lado de salida (derecha) tiene un disco plano. Ahi esta

también una junta para sellar la tapa.

valve1.jpg unidireccional

 

 

A la izquierda vemos el disco de admisión, ya la derecha vemos el muelle de salida.

valve.jpg unidireccional

 

 

Así es como se supone que debe ser ensamblado. Espero que esto ayude.

 

Editado 27 de de abril de, 2016 rmaynard
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Hello friend this weekend, I repaired the suction gas pump, I have checked the diaphragm, I have cleaned the valves, I have stretched the springs to give them more force, but I have not put the gasket on the valves because they do not Was it very important
I have to disassemble the pump again to paint the engine, open it and put the gasket to the top of the springs!

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